Over rev report

[Inthehighdesert]

Sorry, you need to buy a new car.

I think we are talking about different things. Reading your responses here, perhaps what I am looking for is not even stored in this ECU. These OR event (which I believe is simply a flag that is set to true) is not what I am after. This thing you are saying tech can clear will set if you bounce of the rev limiter. What I am talking about is mechanical over rev that goes beyond 9,000 or even 9,500 rpm. Downshifting from 5th to 2nd instead of 4th near 7k rpm for instance will cause this. What I am looking for is how many revs the engine operated in this rpm and how many hours ago (in engine hours) this event occurred. This is what Porsche DME (ECU) report tells you, Corvette has this too, so does a BMW. There is no way to clear this information without installing a brand new ECU (which itself stores a code so you can tell ECU has changed).

I guess to some extent if there is no way to access this information thats a double edged sword. It also means if I buy a car that had a mechanical over rev, Ford wont deny the warranty because they wont know the extent of this over rev. The only issue here is peace of mind. I have seen technicians try and drive a GT350 (Ford ones) and as much as people like JAJ, Tomster, Tank, etc here are experts there are so many people who are complete opposite who buy these cars because of the hype and dont know how to drive a manual car. You may end up with a car that needs a new flywheel and clutch as well as throw out bearing in a week which warranty will not cover. My car nearly at 80,000 miles still has stock clutch and holds like day 1. Both me and my wife rev match since day one which is probably why it lasted this long.

Anyways, good to know this information. Thanks for the help.

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[pilotgore]

I think we are talking about different things. Reading your responses here, perhaps what I am looking for is not even stored in this ECU. These OR event (which I believe is simply a flag that is set to true) is not what I am after. This thing you are saying tech can clear will set if you bounce of the rev limiter. What I am talking about is mechanical over rev that goes beyond 9,000 or even 9,500 rpm. Downshifting from 5th to 2nd instead of 4th near 7k rpm for instance will cause this. What I am looking for is how many revs the engine operated in this rpm and how many hours ago (in engine hours) this event occurred. This is what Porsche DME (ECU) report tells you, Corvette has this too, so does a BMW. There is no way to clear this information without installing a brand new ECU (which itself stores a code so you can tell ECU has changed).

I guess to some extent if there is no way to access this information thats a double edged sword. It also means if I buy a car that had a mechanical over rev, Ford wont deny the warranty because they wont know the extent of this over rev. The only issue here is peace of mind. I have seen technicians try and drive a GT350 (Ford ones) and as much as people like JAJ, Tomster, Tank, etc here are experts there are so many people who are complete opposite who buy these cars because of the hype and dont know how to drive a manual car. You may end up with a car that needs a new flywheel and clutch as well as throw out bearing in a week which warranty will not cover. My car nearly at 80,000 miles still has stock clutch and holds like day 1. Both me and my wife rev match since day one which is probably why it lasted this long.

Anyways, good to know this information. Thanks for the help.

Very interesting as it relates to the other manufacturers and being able to see that data. I learned something new today.

The code that at least I’m referring to, and I’m pretty sure everyone else, is from a mechanical over rev situation just like you described. Bouncing off the rev limiter won’t throw a code. But, in my case for example, being at redline in 4’th, then downshifting into third under heavy braking and releasing the clutch a little too soon can cause a very brief mechanical over rev which is then recorded. That code is non user resettable, but a tech can.

 

[Tomster]

I think we are talking about different things. Reading your responses here, perhaps what I am looking for is not even stored in this ECU. These OR event (which I believe is simply a flag that is set to true) is not what I am after. This thing you are saying tech can clear will set if you bounce of the rev limiter. What I am talking about is mechanical over rev that goes beyond 9,000 or even 9,500 rpm. Downshifting from 5th to 2nd instead of 4th near 7k rpm for instance will cause this. What I am looking for is how many revs the engine operated in this rpm and how many hours ago (in engine hours) this event occurred. This is what Porsche DME (ECU) report tells you, Corvette has this too, so does a BMW. There is no way to clear this information without installing a brand new ECU (which itself stores a code so you can tell ECU has changed).

I guess to some extent if there is no way to access this information thats a double edged sword. It also means if I buy a car that had a mechanical over rev, Ford wont deny the warranty because they wont know the extent of this over rev. The only issue here is peace of mind. I have seen technicians try and drive a GT350 (Ford ones) and as much as people like JAJ, Tomster, Tank, etc here are experts there are so many people who are complete opposite who buy these cars because of the hype and dont know how to drive a manual car. You may end up with a car that needs a new flywheel and clutch as well as throw out bearing in a week which warranty will not cover. My car nearly at 80,000 miles still has stock clutch and holds like day 1. Both me and my wife rev match since day one which is probably why it lasted this long.

Anyways, good to know this information. Thanks for the help.

That is exactly what I was talking about, the ol money shift. If you do it, they will know. I dont think you can erase that code, otherwise, everyone would do it.

"I don't know what happened, it just blew up".

 

[aham23]

Wait, buying a used Mustang and worried about over revs….good one.

 

[UnhandledException]

Sorry, you need to buy a new car.

I wish I could buy a new car. Maybe I should just drive my 77,000 mile car as I have known her since 4 miles

 

[UnhandledException]

Wait, buying a used Mustang and worried about over revs….good one.

Any manual transmission car carries this risk. GT350/GT3 much more than any other car because of how high the redline is and how difficult it is to carry speed into corners and downshift properly. Much easier to “safely” shift a C7 corvette because of how much torque you have and how slowly the engine builds up revs.

I have almost bought a 991.2 GT3 this year that had range 6 overrev (basically over 10,000 rpm). The exotic car shop played dumb and I caught them. I had a near miss in a 997.2 GT3 a few years ago. Similar situation.

 

[Tomster]

I wish I could buy a new car. Maybe I should just drive my 77,000 mile car as I have known her since 4 miles

Why don't you?

 

[UnhandledException]

Why don't you?

Yeah, I probably should. This car has never let me down.

 

[Egparson202]

Yeah, I probably should. This car has never let me down.

There’s your answer. The newer car doesn’t provide you with more comfort than the one you have. Roll on.

 

[Tomster]

Yeah, I probably should. This car has never let me down.

Do an engine refresh and you'd be set for a while.

 

[CANTWN4LSN]

If you do do an engine refresh let us know what it does to your oil consumption issue.

 

[UnhandledException]

The cost of upgrading my car is $32,000 (including taxes) to 2019 with 10,000 miles. My car has $3,500 worth of XPEL, Ford Performance exhaust ($2,000), QA1 Driveshaft ($14,00), MGW shifter ($500 - but it wasnt easy to install so lots of labor). If I have to do aall of this again in the new car thats another $6000-7000. Then theree is extending the warranty of the new car because eveen 2019s have less than 1 yearr bumper to bumper warranty remaining. So thats another $2000. All said and done $40000+

Keeping my car is $5,500 for warranty, $1500 for new brakes, alignment $250 and another $250 for changing the belt and $250 for radiator flush, these last two are things I'd do as preventative maintenance. Probably motor mounts, trans and diff fluid flush can all be done under $750. So $8,500 all in.

 

[Cobra Jet]

Honestly if I were shopping for an S550 GT350, GT350R or GT500 "sight unseen", these would be my steps for research - in no particular order:

1) Make sure the Timing TSB has been implemented OR at the very minimum, have the vehicle checked. Here's the GT350 Timing Chain TSB thread if you have not seen it:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/tsb-for-secondary-cam-chain-tensioner.158799/

2) Request an OASIS report if the selling Dealership is Ford. If the selling Dealership is not Ford, put a post up here requesting one, there's many M6G members on here who can furnish it. The OASIS will show any warranty, non-warranty or recall work performed on the vehicle at any Ford Dealership. It will also have the Warranty start date and quite a bit of other info.

3) Run any VIN report from your favorite VIN reporting agency. These reports are not always 100% accurate regarding possible accidents or minor issues - BUT you get to see Ownership history.

4) For out of State potential purchases - HIRE a legit and reputable vehicle inspection service. Research them online before hiring. It's better to spend $ for such a service than to lose your ass on a vehicle that isn't as advertised through pictures and words alone.

5) Ask a forum member who's versed in the vehicle you're buying and is local to it to see if they can go check it out. Quite a few M6G members have done this for others as a courtesy.

6) If you're seeking such a car, make sure it has the original "owners kit", owners manual supplements, or any specific accessories that were to come with it when it was new. Sometimes these kits, manuals or accessories are either missing or not available to next owners AND can be quite costly to procure them again from online sites or sellers.

7) Make sure it's not a Ford RAV Buy Back. If it was one, it will have a label on Driver side B-pillar, the selling dealership HAS to make any potential buyer aware that it was a RAV Buy Back and there will be additional paperwork completed at time of signing. Usually these vehicles are approx between $5k-$10k less than their non-buy back counterparts. If it was a RAV Buy Back, this will also be noted in OASIS.

8) Don't let emotions take over - do your due diligence with research and having the vehicle checked over, more so and can't stress it enough if you're doing a "sight unseen" purchase.

9) If private party sale across State lines:
- Ask for many hi-rez pics of the vehicle from all different angles.
- Ask owner if he/she has maintenance history, items mentioned in #6 above.
- Ask if they hold title or if a lien still exists.
- Ask if the title is clear.
- Ask how they will expect payment and how you will receive vehicle and title/paperwork.
- PLAN and make sure everything is documented between you and private party sale.
- Also do not let your funds go UNTIL you have confirmed the "Owner's legitimacy" and you have all of their information, pinned their location, copy of some document confirming their identity or mailing address, etc.. Too many online scams happening; especially with a sight unseen sale.

 

[DCShelby]

Porsche DME report has six ranges of reports and will tell you when they happened, and how many revolutions at that rpm. Report 1 is really not an issue, but if you’ve got range 5 and 6 reports….that’s iffy. Nothing like this detailed report in the Shelby.

 

[Whitest Russian]

OP,

Out of curiosity why do you want the car to come with the Recaro seats? From my understanding it's fairly easy to replace the standard seats with a pair of aftermarket ones that probably fit you better and are more comfortable and fit your body better.

Also, (personal opinion) the OEM Recaros are complete ass I have no idea why people would pay the $1500 or whatever it is to get them installed at the factory and to have the wiring for the standard seats with heating/ac be taken away.

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