OPG - Which one?

[HISSMAN]

See the white pick up tube? It inserts into the oil pump socket.

Yeah. They really screwed you guys over on that one.

Forgot about the crank being in the way. Well, I didn't forget about it, but my brain wasn't as fast as my fingers when I was typing it out.

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[Lexluther]

See pics of TSS OPG the laser P/N etching is the only outward appearence that differentiates it from a factory part. Emory cloth can take that off and it looks stock.

 

[Lexluther]

The motor pulls real strong. I have a GT350R also and have run it only at COTA once so I can compare it to that motor. It did fell like it had better low end grunt than the FPC and they both rev to the moon! The deal with the 5.2 XS is that I also installed a new lightweight clutch at the same time as the new motor and it had high rpm shift issues. So I had to short shift it at OUSCI. This basically left me with a high horsepower "regular Coyote" performance wise. I didn't really get to wring it out hard and take advantage of the 8500 rpm capabilities that I was building the engine for. It also didn't give me a chance to evaluate my oil cooler setup for the motor since I never really ran it hard for extended 8K rpm usage on the road course. My GTPP Coyote at 400WHp would get hot and pull power briefly when I ran at NJMP. Three consecutive turns that needed 7500+ rpm...that would get the oil to hit the temp limits and cause it to pull power momentarily.
Even short shifting and granny shifting it on straights at OUSCI I did set a new personal best though so the potential is there. I just also need to get the clutch to perform as well as the Engine.

I have some sixth gen Camaros with 500+ whp and more torque to keep up with and this will hopefully do it.

Going bad to LVMS in March and hope to have it all sorted out by then.

Do you have the Shelby tremec and Mcleod clutch? They have an issue on their GT350 clutch not releasing. They will make it right if you call them I spent an hour today on this and its been 2 months dealing with it in total..

 

[mustang1]

See pics of TSS OPG the laser P/N etching is the only outward appearence that differentiates it from a factory part. Emory cloth can take that off and it looks stock.

Installing the part will leave evidence that the engine has been worked on.

 

[Lexluther]

Installing the part will leave evidence that the engine has been worked on.

Snap-on always has you covered . Non-marring no scratches removing and installing bolts. The timing cover has an o-ring rather than say anaerobic sealer.

Set, Socket Inserts, Metric, Non-Marring, 6 pc

https://store.snapon.com/Non-marring-Metric-Socket-Inserts-Set-Socket-Inserts-Metric-Non-Marring-6-pc-P754082.aspx

 

[xXANCHORMONXx]

Snap-on always has you covered . Non-marring no scratches removing and installing bolts. The timing cover has an o-ring rather than say anaerobic sealer.

Set, Socket Inserts, Metric, Non-Marring, 6 pc

https://store.snapon.com/Non-marring-Metric-Socket-Inserts-Set-Socket-Inserts-Metric-Non-Marring-6-pc-P754082.aspx

Didn't know those existed. I wonder if those will still fit over the oil pan due to how close the bolts are to the belly of the oil pan

 

[Lexluther]

They are made to fit inside sockets and on wrenches so they are not any wider than a socket and if so slightly. You could thin out the width if you wanted to for $26 bucks it wouldn't hurt to modify them.

I have thinned 1/4 up from around the bottom end of a 3/8 drive socket if a bolt was on tight and my 1/4 drive would break and I needed clearance get in there with something bigger. This can only be done on 12pt drive so the load is evenly distributed. Nothing works better than the $5 80grit 4" flapper wheel at walmart for an angle grinder. A grinding disc itself takes longer and shoot sparks everywhere.

I have also shortened sockets to where only 1/8th of the bolt head went into it due to clearance.

I don't do this my snap-on tools I do it on craftsman or I go out to o'reilys or auto zone and grab a cheapo. If I end up cracking it than I go to a hardened impact sockets and repeat.

MFG. are now making cars that require special tools that are expensive to buy directly from the car maker so you end up improvising. Kent-moore tools who is a division of bosch usually makes the tools and than later on sells them in the aftermarket but they don't have everything and not right away when a car comes out. Some tools are direct only I remember an axle socket tool for an MBZ was $400 from the dealer, simply ridiculous.

For the oil pan your dropping the k member or raising the engine anyways so no tool clearance issues.

You could also use pipe teflon tape around the bolt head since its thin and than a 6pt socket not to mar the bolt head. I usually just put hand tension on the socket to prevent the ratcheting motion around the bolt head so the socket just spins in one direction and not hammer back and forth on the bolt head. I find that I don't mar the bolt any more than the factory did. You come into trouble when the bolt head ends are marred in both direction so obviously the bolt was put on in one direction at the factory and than the clean counter-clockwise side is now marred since its taken off now.

Higher end cars like porsche uses the same nylon inner socket sleeves on the factory floor so the bolt heads are perfect and lower end car just use regular sockets like a mechanic would so the bolts will have some scuffs.

Some mfg. seal the bolts usually to torque so if the bolt moves its visible so you have to buy a kit to reseal it if your going to take it off to put it back as it was. I am OCD so if I work on something I don't want any further marks than what the factory put on and have it as if it was never touched.

 

[xXANCHORMONXx]

I've been working on cars for maybe 9 years now and I'm always learning more. I really like that paste.

On the motors Ive built I use something similar to mark each bolt after torquing.

The teflon tape is a good idea as well.

Again thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge

 

[stanglife]

You can fill in the blanks on this link but MMR comes back pretty harsh when someone suggests that they are not the best...then goes on to say they wouldn't talk bad about someone else's product just to sell their own....but they had just done exactly that.

https://www.*******************/forums/threads/billet-oil-pump-gears.1000554/#post-14005778

 

[J_Maher_AMG]

You can fill in the blanks on this link but MMR comes back pretty harsh when someone suggests that they are not the best...then goes on to say they wouldn't talk bad about someone else's product just to sell their own....but they had just done exactly that.

https://www.*******************/forums/threads/billet-oil-pump-gears.1000554/#post-14005778

Assuming its svtperformance website? Doesn't work though haha

 

[stanglife]

Just replace the ***** with the website name..

drkmrkiv said: ↑
Take a look at TSS oil pump gears. Their gears have much tighter tolerances than MMR's pieces and have read their gears are 'better' quality.

MMR:
This is 100% false!! Have you measured a MMR gear VS a TSS gear personally ? We assume by your statement "have read" that the answer is NO. I read on the internet that the world was going to end last december....

The MMR gears are machined on a state of the art CNC machine, the TSS gears are wire cut. If the TSS gears were so Precise, why would they list on their own website that they hand match sets - it simple - because they are not precise - do you think hand matching is more precise than CNC machining....

The MMR Billet gears are the best in the industry, they are the only gear proven over 1500HP and are used in all of the TOP coyote's in the country including the Hellion racecar that just WON the coyote modified class.

Please dont post information unless you personally have done the homework, (not what somebody or a competitor told you) the internet is already full of mis-information and misleading posts as it is.

And to clarify, the TSS gears may be a decent part, but they are certainly not better than the MMR gear by way of manufacturing and tolerance as you have posted. Our company has never put down another competitors parts to sell something and we feel it is unprofessional that someone needed to make this up to sell their product-this is not the way we have or will ever do business.

 

[Voodooo]

Mmr has no idea how precise wire edm is. I've been a journeyman tool and die maker for a long time. Wire and carbon edm is VERY precise.

 

[J_Maher_AMG]

Just replace the ***** with the website name..

I did, it doesn't work for me, says not available haha :shrug:

Edit: exited the browser, copied it again and now it works, herp derp :headbonk::headbonk:

 

[machsmith]

Tool deflection/ware happens with cnc machining. It's only gonna be as good as the tool that's doing the work. Grinding is a bit more precise. Wire takes longer but is very precise in my experience. I'd be happy with either

 

[HISSMAN]

Why wire edm is the tits and balls.

[ame]

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