Oil drain plug

Mach1Mike

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kz

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I honestly do not remember where I saw that using a new plug is recommended every oil change - I'll look some more - thought it might have been shop manual but it doesn't really cover oil change. I sometimes keep plug longer (with my frequency of oil changes), but typically will replace at least every other one. I buy packs of three off Amazon.
 

fast306stang

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I honestly do not remember where I saw that using a new plug is recommended every oil change - I'll look some more - thought it might have been shop manual but it doesn't really cover oil change. I sometimes keep plug longer (with my frequency of oil changes), but typically will replace at least every other one. I buy packs of three off Amazon.
Are you able to get OEM ones from Amazon? I looked and only saw aftermarket ones, so I bought 2 from my Ford dealer for $30 something. I need to check Levittown and see if they're cheaper, I sourced locally this time bc I didn't have time to wait to have any shipped to me.
 


RobZ71LM7

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I remember when these were about $3 a plug from a Ford dealer for my F-150, now they're $9 from Levittown.
 

Vlad Soare

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I kept looking for this in the manual (2018+) and couldn't find it anywhere, that it needs to be replaced. Can you provide deets?
This is the sort of common knowledge that everybody seems to have, but nobody can remember where they have it from. :giggle:
Apparently it isn't actually true, and it seems to have originated from an unfortunate choice of words in the service manual. In any procedure that involves draining the engine oil, the last step reads: "replace oil drain plug". But what Ford actually meant was "re-place", as in "put it back", not as in "exchange it for a new one".
 
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KeyLime

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Break off on removal? Sure, if you're being ridiculous. I could also see it after several years of heat cycles. But they're never going to just break off randomly while you're driving down the road. Personally I just replace the plastic one every so many changes so I have a fresh o-ring. I like stuff like this better than the old days, when lube monkeys will blow out your oil pan threads by falling asleep on the impact trigger.
I wasn't talking about them spontaneously breaking off while driving down the road. That never happens.

The tabs can break while removing the plug during an oil change. Yes, you can stick in a new plug for a couple of bucks. But I chose to put in a drain plug that I can attach a drain line to. It's easier, less messy and I don't need to stock replacement drain plugs and/or o-rings.
 

MLO 351

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Completed the first oil change today and on review cant see a need for an aftermarket sump plug, I found the standard plug easy enough to work with and not replacing it relieves any concerns about engineering/design if using an aftermarket plug.

Oil filter was frustrating to access, fully support the front wheel being removed to make the filter replacement less of a headache.
I used a belt style filter wrench similar to the below, with a 1/2 inch drive extension and ratchet, this worked well for removal.

https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/toolpro-toolpro-oil-filter-wrench-strap-150mm/12566.html

The inspection/cover plate on the plastic underbody wont allow access to the oil filter, but removing it does allow you to pack the area with rags to soak up the oil lost on filter removal. You can also pack the area directly under the filter with rags through the opening in the wheel well. Doing this limits any oil filter spillage and prevents oil being spread across the undertray.
Some oil will leak down through the inspection plate area so removing it and having an oil tray directly underneath is a must do step.

Overall a straight forward job, just made a little harder due to filter location.
 
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Konamoth

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Yeah, I'll be swapping back to stock plugs next change—bought the UPR months ago prior to seeing the horror story threads and... Yeah.

Hate to say, but the billet plugs don't seem like they'd really... twist in any tighter than the plastics. So.
 

Cobrajet70

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Stock, they don't break by themselves, and its cheap enough to replace every other change and not worry about o rings leaking.
Though I raise my car on to the in ground drive on to do oil changes, Cant imagine trying to crawling under that thing and doing any kind of work.
 

cheeser

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Installed the Femco 6420001 oil drain plug over the weekend that should drastically reduce the potential for messy oil changes.

When pulling out the original plug, oil quickly overfilled my large drain container…that 10 qts came out fast.

Pulling the oil filter was messier than anticipated as well even when creating a makeshift funnel under the filter. Looking forward to the 3D printed filter guide when it’s available.
 

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UPRjoe

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I just wanted to add this video to clear up the installation and removal of any UPR Drain plug or Drain Valve. We have thousands and thousands of Ford's running our drain plugs and drain valves and do not recommend prying the tabs, as for running over something and breaking or dislodging the drain plug is not something we've encountered.

We've seen many oil pan failures and plastic drain plug failures as we get emails about the tabs breaking from the pressure against the detents after being R&R's a few times. Mostly we hear about the leaks from the plastic drain plugs. That is why we moved to the new patented double o-ring seal.

Also heard about a handful of people that did not correctly tighten drain plugs in the plastic oil pans allowing them to back out or vibrate loose. That's the most common problem with the plastic drain plug and the exact reason we designed the metal tabs to bite into the oil pan to eliminate any chance of ever coming loose by itself.

We've been working on a UPR Gen2 Drain Valve with some updates I developed to simplify the design. The revision was for ease of use as we strive to improve our products, not because of any issues or problems with the first generation other than all the inferior copies forcing us to build a better mouse trap.

Check out the video, and you can see a walk-through on the UPR Drain Valve.
UPR Ford Easy Oil Drain Plug Valve.

Gloves are much better when installing or removing the UPR Drain Plug or UPR drain Valve so you can grip the metal tabs and turn them past the detent lip in the pan when removing. Allowing you to remove the drain plug without prying the tabs. (Prying the tabs is not recommended as they are designed to withstand daily operation over and over, but not to be pryed.)

Note: the UPR drain valve will not open or vibrate loose and does not need to be cranked tight to close you just snug it closed, and the detent and o-ring keep it secure. Just make sure you close it completely before refilling it with oil.

This is purely an informational post to explain the design and function, so everyone knows exactly how the UPR Drain Valve works. Thank you, and please PM me any questions or requests, or you can directly contact us through [email protected] as he's very knowledgeable and can always help.

Not here to flame or debate anyone, just wanted to share this with our fellow enthusiasts. Yes, we offer an unconditional lifetime warranty against manufacturer on all our products as well.

[email protected]
 

ChitownStang

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I just wanted to add this video to clear up the installation and removal of any UPR Drain plug or Drain Valve. We have thousands and thousands of Ford's running our drain plugs and drain valves and do not recommend prying the tabs, as for running over something and breaking or dislodging the drain plug is not something we've encountered.

We've seen many oil pan failures and plastic drain plug failures as we get emails about the tabs breaking from the pressure against the detents after being R&R's a few times. Mostly we hear about the leaks from the plastic drain plugs. That is why we moved to the new patented double o-ring seal.

Also heard about a handful of people that did not correctly tighten drain plugs in the plastic oil pans allowing them to back out or vibrate loose. That's the most common problem with the plastic drain plug and the exact reason we designed the metal tabs to bite into the oil pan to eliminate any chance of ever coming loose by itself.

We've been working on a UPR Gen2 Drain Valve with some updates I developed to simplify the design. The revision was for ease of use as we strive to improve our products, not because of any issues or problems with the first generation other than all the inferior copies forcing us to build a better mouse trap.

Check out the video, and you can see a walk-through on the UPR Drain Valve.
UPR Ford Easy Oil Drain Plug Valve.

Gloves are much better when installing or removing the UPR Drain Plug or UPR drain Valve so you can grip the metal tabs and turn them past the detent lip in the pan when removing. Allowing you to remove the drain plug without prying the tabs. (Prying the tabs is not recommended as they are designed to withstand daily operation over and over, but not to be pryed.)

Note: the UPR drain valve will not open or vibrate loose and does not need to be cranked tight to close you just snug it closed, and the detent and o-ring keep it secure. Just make sure you close it completely before refilling it with oil.

This is purely an informational post to explain the design and function, so everyone knows exactly how the UPR Drain Valve works. Thank you, and please PM me any questions or requests, or you can directly contact us through [email protected] as he's very knowledgeable and can always help.

Not here to flame or debate anyone, just wanted to share this with our fellow enthusiasts. Yes, we offer an unconditional lifetime warranty against manufacturer on all our products as well.

[email protected]
My plug must be the generation before the easy drain valve, it has a hole in the sliver handle.
I've had mine for about 14 months and 2 oil changes without issue.
Do you have any reports of my style having problems?
 

DougS550

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I have a Ronin on my 19 GT PP1. Last winter while on jacks I noticed oil residue from a small amount of seepage around the plug area. I cleaned it and will replace with another brand this coming winter. It has nothing to do with the OEM plug itself, its just the poor ass design they didnt engineers a draining option on the plug so you can control the oil flow to prevent one from making a huge mess. JMHO. Good Luck
 
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