Off to a rough start with 2016 GT

[cuckoo4watches]

oh man, I am so sorry to hear about the debacle you are in.

My anxiety would be at an all time high dealing with the mess you are dealing with.

I would be livid about the fraudulent misrepresentation of the car!

if in fact, like you said... "The report I got back stated it has factory exhaust and engine, the only identified mods were lowering springs, Koni shock and Maximum Motorsport caster plates."

Then I would certainly be calling that dealer and mentioning about a lawyer.
It is not fair for you to have been pushed someone else's problem that that dealership clearly
lied to you about.

Also not fair for you to have to diagnose and spend money on a problem that should not be there, regardless of it being sold as-is or not.

If they screwed themselves on the purchase of it then that is on them, they should not be trying to screw a customer over to get out of their own mess.

The suspension and exhaust setup should work fine even with a stock tune and 87 octane.

I would really pursue a buy back if it were me because I would not be able to freely drop money into someone else's mess.

If you have in writing what the dealership told you, what the car was or wasn't equipped with, then you have leverage.
You can contact your local State Attorney General's office as well as the one in Florida and open a case.
It is free to do as it is a service they provide for customer's protection of the purchase of goods.

Good luck

** is it possible to get the ECU re-flashed to Ford spec at the dealer, replace the spark plugs, plug in all of the manifold connections and then see if it runs right?

reading this thread https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/e85-on-mostly-stock-gt.126584/
makes me wonder if some simple changes like that were done just to run e85 and so putting 87 in screws things up?

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[2016S550]

i would probably pump out the fuel and try some E85.

 

[SheepDog]

Lund Racing was gracious enough to check their system and they don't see the VIN in it. They also gave me some ideas on what to look for.

Next up is to call the dealership in Florida that sold the car to the previous owner when the car was a year old and ask them if a) they still have a record of the sale in their system and b) they can try to contact that person and give him my contact information. I have very low expectations of a) or b) panning out.

Have Palm beach Dyno do the same thing and see if they have the VIN.

Forget about getting info from the previous owner.

1. First try emptying the fuel tank, and adding a few gallons of E85. The easiest way to do this, is to lift up the back seat, remove the fuel pump assembly, and syphon out the fuel. If you filled it all the way up with 87 octane, this is gonna suck. Another option is to remove the ful line from the rail on the drivers side, and run a hose into a tank or bucket. Prime the pump KOEO over and over to pump out the fuel.

2. Pull the fuel rails off and remove one of the fuel injectors, and take pictures of it. Post them here.

3. Do a compression test. I'd be more concerned that someone had a blower on the car, and hurt the engine. People do not generally lock out the IMRC's unless they had forced induction on it.

4. Contact Wengerd Performance and talk to him about how to get a stock calibration (depending on what injectors you have). Tell him that the IMRC's are locked out, and you don't have the vacuum pods to control them anymore.

Also, at least in Colorado anyway, a dealership cannot sell you a car that doesn't pass emissions, so the dealership that sold you the car cannot sell it to you with long tubes on it.

 

[Canuckican]

I pulled the injectors and it looks like they are 47 pound, just like what I was told is used with an E85 tune.

 

[Canuckican]

My game plan right now is to:

a) replace the 2018 intake manifold with a 2015-17 version. I don't really care about HP way up in the rev range. That is rarely seen by me.

b) Keep the BBK long tubes, high flow cats and MBRP in place for now.

c) Pick up a set of the appropriate size fuel injectors that match the stock manifold, headers, cats and cat back. I imagine the stock spec injectors would do the job.

d) Get a tuner/tune for 91/93 octane that will work well with my combo. I don't want to stick with E85. Its availability is too hit and miss in these parts for me.

If I could find a decently priced set of OEM exhaust manifolds and downpipes with cats I would probably go that way, assuming I could find someone with a lift or less trashed shoulders to remove the long tubes. Exhaust work is one of my least favorite things to do, along with wiring.

 

[NGOT8R]

None of the four connectors at the back of the 2018 manifold currently installed are connected to anything and are zip-tied out of the way. I was told that is because the tune currently on the car, whatever it is, has locked the IMRCs so the plugs do not need to be connected. I hope the PCM is not completed locked by whatever tune is on it now so that I can't install a new tune. That'd be no fun.

Correct, your IMRCs are locked out. They are supposed to be turned off in the tune. I had to pay Lund an extra $150 to turn them off in all four of my tunes that they had previously written for me.

In your case, I didn’t know if the previous owner of your car had removed the actuators and diaphragms from the IM, so I was just suggesting that in the event he/she hadn’t, it would have been easier to plug up two and zip tie the remaining two. It looks like they’re secure on your car, and won’t pose a risk of rattling around, so you’re good there.

 

[SheepDog]

My game plan right now is to:

a) replace the 2018 intake manifold with a 2015-17 version. I don't really care about HP way up in the rev range. That is rarely seen by me.

b) Keep the BBK long tubes, high flow cats and MBRP in place for now.

c) Pick up a set of the appropriate size fuel injectors that match the stock manifold, headers, cats and cat back. I imagine the stock spec injectors would do the job.

d) Get a tuner/tune for 91/93 octane that will work well with my combo. I don't want to stick with E85. Its availability is too hit and miss in these parts for me.

If I could find a decently priced set of OEM exhaust manifolds and downpipes with cats I would probably go that way, assuming I could find someone with a lift or less trashed shoulders to remove the long tubes. Exhaust work is one of my least favorite things to do, along with wiring.

I was recommending swapping in the E85, just to verify that it indeed has an E85 tune on it, and to get it running so that you can drive it and check for other isssues. Once you are certain that you don't have other problems, you can swap the intake back to a Gen2, and the OEM injectors along with an appropriate tune. You will probably still have to get an OEM calibration first, before another tuning company can write you a new tune

 

[2016S550]

I was recommending swapping in the E85, just to verify that it indeed has an E85 tune on it, and to get it running so that you can drive it and check for other isssues. Once you are certain that you don't have other problems, you can swap the intake back to a Gen2, and the OEM injectors along with an appropriate tune. You will probably still have to get an OEM calibration first, before another tuning company can write you a new tune

this would be my plan…..

 

[NGOT8R]

You’ve got a good game plan there. You may even be able to find someone on here that lives near you and is willing to swap exhaust systems with you and help assist with removal and installation.

 

[Canuckican]

I was recommending swapping in the E85, just to verify that it indeed has an E85 tune on it, and to get it running so that you can drive it and check for other isssues. Once you are certain that you don't have other problems, you can swap the intake back to a Gen2, and the OEM injectors along with an appropriate tune. You will probably still have to get an OEM calibration first, before another tuning company can write you a new tune

I sure do wish I hadn't justput 14 gallons of 87 octane in it. Siphoning gas from cars isn't nearly as easy as it used to be.

 

[NGOT8R]

I sure do wish I hadn't justput 14 gallons of 87 octane in it. Siphoning gas from cars isn't nearly as easy as it used to be.

If you want to get all of the fuel out of it ASAP, JPC Racing sells a fuel tank draining kit.

https://www.jpcracing.com/jpc-2011-up-mustang-gt-fuel-drain-kit/

 

[2016S550]

I would run down to Harbor Freight and buy a cheap pump to siphon it out.

 

[Shifting_Gears]

Sorry to hear about your woes.

What dealer did you buy it from? I’m sure they were aware it wasn’t running well, and we should know who to avoid.

Unfortunately the car was probably thrown back to look stock and dumped as a trade in or dealer buy-out.

 

[Canuckican]

I pulled the injectors and it looks like they are 47 pound, just like what I was told is used with an E85 tune.

I was also told that the part number by itself won't necessarily tell you for certain it is a 47 lb injector but that the injector has to have 6 holes. The ones I removed do all have 6 holes.

 

[Cobra Jet]

Just read through...

Unfortunately, you're letting your emotions and attachment to the car get the best of you. You should have jumped on the phone immediately once that car came off the hauler and told the Selling Dealer they're taking it back and refunding your $$$, otherwise your contacting the State's Attorney General office...

Why?

Because they sold a vehicle to you with a tampered emissions system, and were not honest in their sales ad about the vehicle or it's TRUE condition.

If the vehicle was running like shit right off the car hauler, you know damn well it was running like shit on their lot and when it was loaded on that hauler.

You got rooked.

You don't know the history of that vehicle at all, and from your findings (so far), that vehicle was most likely whooped on by the prior owner(s). You don't do those type of mods just to daily it. You also don't know if that car ever had a Supercharger on it either. Therefore you also don't know the extent of the internals of that rotating assembly.

You can throw parts at it to getting it back to "normal", but honestly, you should have been on the phone that day once it was initially started on the hauler and there were signs of issues.

Does Wisconsin require a vehicle to pass State Emissions or a readiness test?

Any vehicle sold by a Dealership in the US 48 should have all emissions components intact AND should be able to pass State Inspections for emissions and the visual (if required). There's no way at all that vehicle "legally" passed if it's in the condition as received. Therefore that selling Dealer COULD BE in a heap of trouble if reported. Sure laws are different in every State, but tampering with ANY part of the emissions system, that equipment is Federally Mandated to be intact on any any vehicle - that's a problem and if EPA was notified, that Dealer could be fined and shut down.

Yes, I know - the above is extreme, and yes, as a "private party", I've owned plenty of Mustangs (modded and not), so I'm not saying the emissions part to be snobbish and ignorant of the fact that many Mustang (and other muscle car owners) DO remove emissions equipment and DO run LT's headers and DO modify these cars beyond factory "as built".... The point I'm trying to get across is, a legit licensed DEALERSHIP in any State where emissions is Federally Mandated and most vehicles are required to pass emissions inspections should not be selling such a vehicle - and they're not "dumb" by any means... They knew what they had (a tampered with vehicle) and they unloaded it...

I would have an OASIS report run on it to find out what (if any) prior repair and warranty repair history it might have if it was serviced by any Ford Dealer in the US 48. There's members on here who can help with that / there may be older threads requesting an OASIS, so search and ask for a report.

I'm not trying to ruin your party / and you're attempting to do the best you can with the situation and what you have - but maybe you can call that selling Dealer and use against them what I stated above - tell them you'll go the length of contacting the State AG if they can't help make things right OR take the car back for a full refund.

Did you print out the ad from when it was listed and how they advertised it?

Buying any vehicle "as is" is one thing... It's another if there were deceptive practices involved and you're sold a vehicle that is totally tampered with and not even close to being as advertised. Not to mention they sold a vehicle to you over State lines that was not as advertised (or as discussed), so that alone can be interstate wire fraud. They took your $$$$ fully knowing the vehicle had issues.

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