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NGOT8R
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- #92
I found a place that sells ceramic bearings for the countershaft ($105) and output shaft ($319), but they don’t offer one for the input shaft. I don’t think it would make much sense to only install two out of three ceramic bearings. With that being said, I‘m thinking the sensible thing to do is; order all new factory bearings and reallocate those funds for other improvements to the tranny.
Man, I swear this build feels like I’m sitting in the backseat of a taxicab with the fare meter running sky-high!
Man, I swear this build feels like I’m sitting in the backseat of a taxicab with the fare meter running sky-high!
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NGOT8R
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Ruiner46
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Out of curiosity, did you check flywheel runout? I had trouble with the MMR trigger wheel and another member posted the exact same issue. Not sure if we got a bad batch, but my runout was way out of spec until I swapped back to the OEM trigger wheel.
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Ruiner46
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See the discussion here:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...num-xl-in-my-s550.115797/page-31#post-3025118
I returned mine and sent MMR videos of runout with and without their wheel. They didn't care to comment, just stated that the runout measured perfect on their end and gave me a refund.
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NGOT8R
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- #98
That’s some scary stuff right there! I toyed with the idea of reusing the factory trigger wheel. Man, I sure hope I’m good. I’ve got enough challenges on my hands at the moment and certainly don’t need any more.
I will say that when I was installing then MMR rear seal plate, I got a leak at the bottom two bolts (twice). I thought maybe the gasket was getting inched between the raised lip on the oil pan. I pulled the cover off again and trimmed the rope gasket 3/16 from the bottom of the plate on both sides of the gasket channel, used black Ultimate Permatex and filled in the two areas on the gasket channel. I also ran a bead of Permatex at the bottom of the block, above the oil pan and then torqued everything down. I haven’t seen another drop of oil appear since. It was at that time that I also began to inspect the plate more closely and could see where the left bottom outside edge had been ground down approximately 3/32 more than the right side. I don’t know if this was done to get rid of a minor imperfection or what, but I did take notice of it. I remember thinking that was a bit odd to find such an imperfection with the naked eye, given that the plate was obviously made on a CNC machine. This is what caused me to look back and forth at the factory where and the MMR wheel. I hope the plate and wheel (when used together) are within spec where it counts on my setup.
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Ruiner46
Well-Known Member
I don't want to scare you, but I was less than impressed with MMR's responses to me on my problem. However, for all I know, I could have received the exact same defective part as the other poster had since it was around the same timeframe. Maybe he returned it and they boxed it up and sent it to me.
I will say that after receiving a clutch that was way out of balance in the same install, I now check everything I can while the transmission is out. It sucked to have to tear the car completely back apart again to balance the clutch/flywheel. It was at that time that I decided to throw in the trigger wheel, and I was glad I checked the runout before throwing it all back together again. I checked the flywheel runout with the Ford part and the MMR part back to back on the same day. With the Ford wheel, I was within 0.005". The MMR was about 0.030"
I will say that after receiving a clutch that was way out of balance in the same install, I now check everything I can while the transmission is out. It sucked to have to tear the car completely back apart again to balance the clutch/flywheel. It was at that time that I decided to throw in the trigger wheel, and I was glad I checked the runout before throwing it all back together again. I checked the flywheel runout with the Ford part and the MMR part back to back on the same day. With the Ford wheel, I was within 0.005". The MMR was about 0.030"
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NGOT8R
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- #100
Uh oh!!! I was pressing 5th gear off of the countershaft and several of the teeth just popped right off of the gear. It only pressed off the shaft about 1/8” and wouldn’t budge anymore. Note: I had read that 5th gear was very week and brittle (Calimer even says so). If you look closely you can see that it’s dark in color, whereas the gear above it is gunmetal gray in color.
While I’m not happy that this happened, I’m glad it happened now and not once the tranny was back together. What’s on my mind right now is, I just need to get 5th gear off of the shaft, as well as the remaining gears, without any further issues. I hope to be able to find a stronger 5th gear, but if not, I’ll buy a new one and send it out to get it strengthened. My 12 ton shop press was screaming, as I tried to press the gear off the countershaft; so much so, that the uprights started to bow out. I‘ll need at least a 20 ton or more shop press to get these gears off.
On a different note, I was able to remove the 5/6 gear synchro assembly from the output shaft without issue.
While I’m not happy that this happened, I’m glad it happened now and not once the tranny was back together. What’s on my mind right now is, I just need to get 5th gear off of the shaft, as well as the remaining gears, without any further issues. I hope to be able to find a stronger 5th gear, but if not, I’ll buy a new one and send it out to get it strengthened. My 12 ton shop press was screaming, as I tried to press the gear off the countershaft; so much so, that the uprights started to bow out. I‘ll need at least a 20 ton or more shop press to get these gears off.
On a different note, I was able to remove the 5/6 gear synchro assembly from the output shaft without issue.
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Grimreaper
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When can I drop off my trans? 
After seeing your efforts, I'm convinced an extra trans is worth few hundred bucks.
Might need some half moon shims to keep the clamp and outer edge of the gear/ teeth from touching. At least on other gears
After seeing your efforts, I'm convinced an extra trans is worth few hundred bucks.
Might need some half moon shims to keep the clamp and outer edge of the gear/ teeth from touching. At least on other gears
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NGOT8R
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- #102
Haha! I have to get out of the weeds on mine and make sure it works properly before I could consider building others, lol.
That’s a good idea about the shims. If only I could just figure out a way to relieve the tension on the gear without damaging the shaft, so that it would press right off. The FSM says not to heat the gear, so I wonder if putting it in the freezer would be of any help?
That’s a good idea about the shims. If only I could just figure out a way to relieve the tension on the gear without damaging the shaft, so that it would press right off. The FSM says not to heat the gear, so I wonder if putting it in the freezer would be of any help?
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NGOT8R
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- #103
Any suggestions on how to get this gear off of the countershaft would be greatly appreciated. i might sneak it into the freezer tonight and let get nice and cold and try again soon. The FSM said it could take up to 18,000 lbs to press them off, but if that were true, 12 tons should have been more than enough.
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NGOT8R
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- #105
Yeah, I’m dead in the water right now. Gonna sleep on it and see if more people chime in with Ideas that I can try. I messed with that thing all afternoon and evening. Finally, I reached the point to where I felt it would be best to clean up the shop and shut the lights off for the night.
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