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MT82-D4 rebuild thread

ice445

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So although the service manual specifically states the shift forks are forged steel it appears they are the special lightweight, non-magnetic version. That's a forgery alright!
I suspect that OP's car is just one of the unfortunate "boundary" cars, where it's build date was too close to the part change to avoid getting the old style of transmission. After all, I doubt Ford was like "yeah we're just going to throw all these away because a revised part exists". When it comes to a line stoppage versus just putting in the old units they have and warrantying it later if they have to, it's obvious which one they're going to choose. Especially since these are relatively complex units made overseas, and the "defect" in question wasn't a critical one. The aluminum forks work fine, they're just easily bent if you shift like a gorilla, haha.
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I suspect that OP's car is just one of the unfortunate "boundary" cars, where it's build date was too close to the part change to avoid getting the old style of transmission. After all, I doubt Ford was like "yeah we're just going to throw all these away because a revised part exists". When it comes to a line stoppage versus just putting in the old units they have and warrantying it later if they have to, it's obvious which one they're going to choose. Especially since these are relatively complex units made overseas, and the "defect" in question wasn't a critical one. The aluminum forks work fine, they're just easily bent if you shift like a gorilla, haha.
Well said ice! I can imagine management on the assembly line looking both ways like a person does before crossing the street, or in the rear view mirror, right after a spirited blast through the gears, to see if anyone is coming. When they ‘re satisfied thet the coast is clear, in go the leftover surplus of aluminum shift forks. Haha! Oh well, at least I’ll have the most important gears (1-4) covered with the addition of billet forks.
 

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Huge “Thank You!“ @boB for sending me several pages from your service manual to help facilitate the disassembly/reassembly of my tranny.
Any possible way you could send that my way aswell? Getting ready to tear mine apart in about 2 weeks
 
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Any possible way you could send that my way aswell? Getting ready to tear mine apart in about 2 weeks
Of course. Please feel free to add to this thread once you tear into yours. It’ll be nice to grow the information database on the MT82-D4.
 
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Moving forward and one bite at a time. Although, I still have to remove that angry detent pin that you’ll see me pointing to in the attached photos (inside and outside pic), I decided to pull the output shaft and countershaft today. Thankfully, everything looks brand new (no chewed up gears, despite having crunched them a few times on the 1/2 & 2/3 shifts, so that makes me feel pretty good to know that those nibbles didn’t hurt them at all).

Further disassembly of the shafts will be needed, in order to prepare them for the cryo treatment and WPC processes.

Tools used (listed by part numbers):

- 205-153/ALT ST-214 (driver handle)

- 308-130 (shift rail needle bearing installer)

Note: These two tools were joined together and I used the orange dead blow hammer to drive the countershaft out. Once the countershaft is driven out of its bearing, the output shaft is released with it. I should also note that I used zip ties to hold the output shaft and the countershaft together during this process.

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Today’s progress:

- Pressed out input shaft and bearing with the shop press (as you can see, the tranny housing barely fit into the press, leaving maybe 3/8” on the sides). I’m glad it fit the bill though, whew!

- Used a shop press pin and my orange dead blow hammer to knock out the countershaft bearing.

- Attempted to use the Ford tool P/N: 308-375 (input/output shaft seal remover) combined with a slide hammer, to remove the input shaft seal and it started to mangle the seal housing. I ended up using an arbor and the orange dead blow hammer to remove this seal.

- Used a drift punch to remove the output shaft seal, as Ford tool P/N: 308-375 did not work for this job either.

The tranny case halves are now basically stripped down, with the exception of a couple of small roller and needle bearings. I haven't decided whether or not I’m going to replace these bearings.

A couple of interesting things to note are:

The input shaft bearing’s inner race had some oil burn marks around it. I was also able to wiggle the input shaft maybe 3/32” before I pressed it out of the tranny case/bearing. I presume this is what caused the marks around the inner race.

The output bearing was stamped, made in China, whereas the countershaft bearing and input shaft bearing were stamped, made in England.


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Of course. Please feel free to add to this thread once you tear into yours. It’ll be nice to grow the information database on the MT82-D4.
Thanks man! Appreciate it!
 

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Today’s progress:

- Pressed out input shaft and bearing with the shop press (as you can see, the tranny housing barely fit into the press, leaving maybe 3/8” on the sides). I’m glad it fit the bill though, whew!

- Used a shop press pin and my orange dead blow hammer to knock out the countershaft bearing.
...snip
Have you located the (presumed) magnet on the shift shaft that actuates the shift select sensor on the upper left side of the housing?
 
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Have you located the (presumed) magnet on the shift shaft that actuates the shift select sensor on the upper left side of the housing?
I believe so. Here I’m pointing to it with the red sharpie.

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Pulled the shift rail bearings today. Those two little buggers didn’t want to let go. I had to heat the casing up to 248* fahrenheit and then use the slide hammer. I probably didn’t have to pull those bearings, but I figured I didn’t want to risk having anything rust when I cleaned the cases. I also feel better going with new seals everywhere there is the potential for a leak.

Once I got the bearings out, I took the casing to the car wash and blasted it with high pressure and Dawn dishwashing soap. Finished up with a brake and parts cleaner wipe down. Super clean!

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Installed the new RAM Pro Street Twin Disc and aluminum flywheel today. The cheap plastic clutch alignment tool is junk. It distorted and put everything in a bind, so after two failed attempts, I had a bright idea; I‘ll just use the input shaft from the transmission, since it’s already disassembled. This was a one time method though because if I ever burn up another clutch, I certainly won’t be disassembling the tranny to use my input shaft as an alignment tool, lol. For now, the problem has been solved!

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Installed the new RAM Pro Street Twin Disc and aluminum flywheel today. The cheap plastic clutch alignment tool is junk. It distorted and put everything in a bind, so after two failed attempts, I had a bright idea; I‘ll just use the input shaft from the transmission, since it’s already disassembled. This was a one time method though because if I ever burn up another clutch, I certainly won’t be disassembling the tranny to use my input shaft as an alignment tool, lol. For now, the problem has been solved!

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Now thats hilarious!!!
 

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LOL, @Duece McCracken, a man has to do, what a man has to do, in order to get by. The input shaft was just sitting in a box, looking like it wanted something to do, so I put It to work. Haha!
The last time I installed a clutch that is exactly what I did. The Corvair input shaft was easier, it slides out of the transmission by design. ;)
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