The bore of a 2.0L block and 2.3L block are the same just the stroke is different between the two so all that's needed is to install 2.3L internals into a 2.0L block to get 2.3l, no boring is required.This is on pump gas as well, 93, no additives, i believe 27 psi max. I think 30-35 psi will blow the stock turbo housing
stock turbo, motor had forged internals but that was due to a racechip blowing my original motor and a used motor coming with a bent rod. My tuner runs all his ecoboosts fbo stock motors to about this power on stock motors, however this is basically the max for a healthy stock motor. Anything 400whp or more more requires forged rods and pistons, up until 500whp. Then the 2.3 block cracks and the solution is a 2.0 block bored out for 2.3L
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Ah good to know!The bore of a 2.0L block and 2.3L block are the same just the stroke is different between the two so all that's needed is to install 2.3L internals into a 2.0L block to get 2.3l, no boring is required.
BD
I learned a bit from the NMRA factory stock racers. They want softer launches so they use really soft clutches and not the stage 3+ race style clutches.OP, grab a baseline run at the track with a drag pack and then follow it up with your tune and drag pack on the same day. That’ll be the real tell all.
I know you have an EB, but I wanted to share some numbers from my Gen. 3 (D4 tranny) Coyote to help put things into perspective as to how difficult it will be to run mid 11s. Not saying it can’t be done with the right combination, but I believe it’ll take a whole lot to get there.
In my case, it hasn’t been as easy as I thought it would be to run a respectable number with my FBO Bullitt (whether NA or with nitrous).
Your sixty is gonna dictate how your run turns out. If you can get into the 1.4-1.5 range, you’ll be on a really good pass, especially with an auto tranny.
I’ve only seen 12.30’s NA on a 1.7-1.8 sixty - making 469 rwhp/434 rwtq and 11.65 with nitrous on a 1.8 sixty - making 639 rwhp/602 rwtq spraying in 2nd-4th.
Note: My runs are made with a full tank of gas and Hoosier QTPs. It’s frustrating as heck too, because I had a 2004 Mach 1 that ran consistent 12.60s NA and 11.70s with a 100 shot of nitrous. Granted the S550 is a heavier car, but it also makes considerably more power than the M1 did.
Any idea what brand clutches those guys are using in NMRA?I learned a bit from the NMRA factory stock racers. They want softer launches so they use really soft clutches and not the stage 3+ race style clutches.
The soft launch reduces the drivetrain shock.
You’d probably be in the 11s N/A with an automatic. I feel like Ford just throws whatever manual transmission in the car instead of optimizing gear ratios for the engine’s powerband.
Im not gonna lie, either their dyno reads dirt nasty low, or their tune is crap![]()
This is my goal if I keep the car instead of a new GT. E85 has insane gains throughout the curve. It sucks that it costs $2k just for the fuel parts to run e85.
I’m ok with a safer tune. It would suck to spend $5k on a shortblock instead of upgrading to a Coyote.Im not gonna lie, either their dyno reads dirt nasty low, or their tune is crap
380 whp and 474 wh torque is extremely low for stock turbo and bolts ons, unless they capped it for engine safety
im telling you guys, the big name tuners like lund, palm beach, etc dont tune these cars enough and dont do more than add some boost and timing to a point they think is safe. Smaller tuners who specialize in ecoboosts can get you to the 370-390whp and 450-480wh torque area with stock fuel system pump gas 93
Thats totally fine, but having more hp doesnt always correlate to a safer tuneI’m ok with a safer tune. It would suck to spend $5k on a shortblock instead of upgrading to a Coyote.
Purely an FYI: The old drag racing rule of thumb is 0.1 sec. = 10hp into about the 10sec. range. So for each second you want to cut off your time you'll need around 100hp more. Using that guess it'll take about 200hp to drop a 13sec car to an 11sec car.I’m looking at various tunes for my stock ecoboost. Livernois, Whipple, Ford Performance, and Tuneplus.
Livernois claims high 11s with tune and drag radial/slicks.
But last night I saw that Tuneplus offers an additional automatic transmission tuning that claims to be good for .4 tenths
Does that mean it’s capable of 11.5 with both tunes (engine and tranny), tire, and likely an intercooler?
auto because they are fasterAre we talking manual or auto tranny cars to run 11s?