Mach1 Brakes

[2021 Mach 1]

Its a looks thing more than performance. Thank you for responding

I felt similar regarding looks. I had all 4 of my brakes removed and painted Grabber Blue.

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[NJMike]

If you really want a brake upgrade this is @PBM457 beautiful Mach. This car has the M-2300-Y set up from Ford Performance.
The only thing is you cannot use the factory Mach 1 wheels, as they will not clear the front rotors. If you are daily driving, this is an expensive upgrade.

By far the best looking brake/wheel combo IMO
@biminiLX

 

[NJMike]

I felt similar regarding looks. I had all 4 of my brakes removed and painted Grabber Blue.

Looks great! I almost... was going to do the Whipple in yellow then the brakes to match. So so glad I didnt (due to the problems I had with the Whipple unit)

 

[Noleftist]

I cooked my rear caliper seals on my 2022 MACH 1 w/HP and G-LOC R12 front, rear R8.
only 14,000 miles On car.
I use the track mode so I’ve been hoping that that decreases the wear on the brakes. At times I have also turned off advance track.
I have replaced the motors and pads 4 times.
already switched over to R 12 in the rear.
My impression is that I’m putting far too much heat into my brakes even with the Vorshlag oversize brake deflector.
Burned all the temperature paint off all the DBA rotors, they had different color paint to show what temperature the rotors were getting up to. So they’re getting so hot. It literally burned all the pain off.
As far as I know, there’s no brake deflector for the rear.
I’m trying to find a way to get brakes that don’t over heat and cook the seals in the rear, especially.
I’m thinking some type of big brake kit would hopefully alleviate the heat, cooking the seals and caliper.
For now, I went ahead and bought new OEM calipers. And I re-bought the DBA one piece rotors for track. Because I needed something right then to get the car on the road again and I also already G-LOC brake pads and DBA rotors ready to go on.
My front are getting a lot of heat to my DBA rotors they are filled with cracks.
So I’m thinking the front could also benefit from bigger better brakes.
what have you guys experienced? Thank you.

 

[luc]

I cooked my rear caliper seals on my 2022 MACH 1 w/HP and G-LOC R12 front, rear R8.
only 14,000 miles On car.
I use the track mode so I’ve been hoping that that decreases the wear on the brakes. At times I have also turned off advance track.
I have replaced the motors and pads 4 times.
already switched over to R 12 in the rear.
My impression is that I’m putting far too much heat into my brakes even with the Vorshlag oversize brake deflector.
Burned all the temperature paint off all the DBA rotors, they had different color paint to show what temperature the rotors were getting up to. So they’re getting so hot. It literally burned all the pain off.
As far as I know, there’s no brake deflector for the rear.
I’m trying to find a way to get brakes that don’t over heat and cook the seals in the rear, especially.
I’m thinking some type of big brake kit would hopefully alleviate the heat, cooking the seals and caliper.
For now, I went ahead and bought new OEM calipers. And I re-bought the DBA one piece rotors for track. Because I needed something right then to get the car on the road again and I also already G-LOC brake pads and DBA rotors ready to go on.
My front are getting a lot of heat to my DBA rotors they are filled with cracks.
So I’m thinking the front could also benefit from bigger better brakes.
what have you guys experienced? Thank you.

Cooking the dust seals is something totally normal if you track your car
Front rotors developing heat cracks is also normal after a while
I think that you worry too much
Btw, i use the cheapest blank front rotors that i can find and never had an issue
As long that you’re not boiling the fluid and getting brake fade, your brakes v temperature is ok
Since how long you have been tracking?
As for burning the paint off…. Did you ever watch racing where the rotors are glowing red ?
Of course rotors get hot and will burn paint
Obviously when you say seals, I’m assuming that you are talking about dust seals…. Correct ?

 

[IPOGT]

I cooked my rear caliper seals on my 2022 MACH 1 w/HP and G-LOC R12 front, rear R8.
only 14,000 miles On car.
I use the track mode so I’ve been hoping that that decreases the wear on the brakes. At times I have also turned off advance track.
I have replaced the motors and pads 4 times.
already switched over to R 12 in the rear.
My impression is that I’m putting far too much heat into my brakes even with the Vorshlag oversize brake deflector.
Burned all the temperature paint off all the DBA rotors, they had different color paint to show what temperature the rotors were getting up to. So they’re getting so hot. It literally burned all the pain off.
As far as I know, there’s no brake deflector for the rear.
I’m trying to find a way to get brakes that don’t over heat and cook the seals in the rear, especially.
I’m thinking some type of big brake kit would hopefully alleviate the heat, cooking the seals and caliper.
For now, I went ahead and bought new OEM calipers. And I re-bought the DBA one piece rotors for track. Because I needed something right then to get the car on the road again and I also already G-LOC brake pads and DBA rotors ready to go on.
My front are getting a lot of heat to my DBA rotors they are filled with cracks.
So I’m thinking the front could also benefit from bigger better brakes.
what have you guys experienced? Thank you.

I think it has everything to do with the HP. People with EP have no such issues.

 

[Noleftist]

Cooking the dust seals is something totally normal if you track your car
Front rotors developing heat cracks is also normal after a while
I think that you worry too much
Btw, i use the cheapest blank front rotors that i can find and never had an issue
As long that you’re not boiling the fluid and getting brake fade, your brakes v temperature is ok
Since how long you have been tracking?
As for burning the paint off…. Did you ever watch racing where the rotors are glowing red ?
Of course rotors get hot and will burn paint
Obviously when you say seals, I’m assuming that you are talking about dust seals…. Correct ?

I have 8.5 track days.

Cooking the dust seals is something totally normal if you track your car
Front rotors developing heat cracks is also normal after a while
I think that you worry too much
Btw, i use the cheapest blank front rotors that i can find and never had an issue
As long that you’re not boiling the fluid and getting brake fade, your brakes v temperature is ok
Since how long you have been tracking?
As for burning the paint off…. Did you ever watch racing where the rotors are glowing red ?
Of course rotors get hot and will burn paint
Obviously when you say seals, I’m assuming that you are talking about dust seals…. Correct ?

My performance shop told me others are not cooking their seals.
So do you cook your seals every other track weekend, since you may be faster than me?
My shop Also said my brake calipers were showing that they were getting a lot of heat too because they were changing , bluing. They gave me the impression. This is a lot more heat than normal.
Do you just install seal kits Every few weekends?
Or do you just install new OEM calipers Every few weekends?
To me, it seems awful expensive and not very intelligent to have cooked seals that you have to replace every few weekends. It seems a smarter, better thought out design for a track car like the MACH is supposed to be, would have been wise.
Better quality seals and larger braking surface would be more possibly more cost-effective and far less less hassle.
I am not claiming to be a brake designer or brake expert, just my thoughts.

Also why are they are not a lot of other people on here talking about burning up their seals and replacing or upgrading their calipers?

 

[luc]

I have 8.5 track days.

My performance shop told me others are not cooking their seals.
So do you cook your seals every other track weekend, since you may be faster than me?
My shop Also said my brake calipers were showing that they were getting a lot of heat too because they were changing , bluing. They gave me the impression. This is a lot more heat than normal.
Do you just install seal kits Every few weekends?
Or do you just install new OEM calipers Every few weekends?
To me, it seems awful expensive and not very intelligent to have cooked seals that you have to replace every few weekends. It seems a smarter, better thought out design for a track car like the MACH is supposed to be, would have been wise.
Better quality seals and larger braking surface would be more possibly more cost-effective and far less less hassle.
I am not claiming to be a brake designer or brake expert, just my thoughts.

Also why are they are not a lot of other people on here talking about burning up their seals and replacing or upgrading their calipers?

I’m in a slightly different situation since my mustang is only a track car and only driven to and from the track
Your shop is wrong cooking dust seals is very common on mustangs used on track
The material used for the seals is not very heat resistant.
some aftermarket use a more resistant material. Silicone based I believe
I don’t change my seals, only time i do that is maybe once a year when i take my calipers off for inspection And the seals are always cooked off
As i mentioned earlier,driving without them is totally fine
99% of motorcycles calipers, including Brembo, do not use dust seals , so obviously is a nonissue
My experience has been that novice drivers can be very hard on brakes. Not sure if it’s the case with you but it’s a possibility
The only thing to remember when you run calipers without dust seals, as bikes does, is to carefully clean the pistons from all the crap before pushing them back when changing pads
A toothbrush and simple green work great
Have fun, you have a great track car right out if the box and the braking system is one of the best
It is also normal for the calipers to slightly change color due to the heat

 

[Charlemagne]

I cooked my rear caliper seals on my 2022 MACH 1 w/HP and G-LOC R12 front, rear R8.
only 14,000 miles On car.
I have replaced the motors and pads 4 times.

Seems normal given your level of enjoyment. Replace the dust seals and carry on.
My brake pads are like new after 10000 miles

 

[Knockdown]

It’s kind of track depedent, tracks with longer straights require lots of energy to be dissipated in the brakes. I got tired of messing with the factory stuff like replacing front pads every track day, cracked DBA rotors, inconsistent braking and installed the AP Racing kits front and rear. Expensive but night and day versus the factory setup. Front pads were 1” thick. They don’t even use dust seals.

 

[WD Pro]

It’s kind of track depedent, tracks with longer straights require lots of energy to be dissipated in the brakes. I got tired of messing with the factory stuff like replacing front pads every track day, cracked DBA rotors, inconsistent braking and installed the AP Racing kits front and rear. Expensive but night and day versus the factory setup. Front pads were 1” thick. They don’t even use dust seals.

Unless you have changed user name, there is also another M1 FJG guy that’s cooked his brakes, and replaced with AP.

He posted pics of the rear callipers with the paint burnt off the two ‘fingers’.

WD

 

[luc]

It’s kind of track depedent, tracks with longer straights require lots of energy to be dissipated in the brakes. I got tired of messing with the factory stuff like replacing front pads every track day, cracked DBA rotors, inconsistent braking and installed the AP Racing kits front and rear. Expensive but night and day versus the factory setup. Front pads were 1” thick. They don’t even use dust seals.

You were using the wrong pads if they needed to be replaced every day
What pads were you using ?

 

[Knockdown]

You were using the wrong pads if they needed to be replaced every day
What pads were you using ?

i didnt like starting a day at less than 60% to keep some of the heat out of the calipers. Hawk, G-Loc, maybe some others. Sebring can be tough on brakes.

 

[Noleftist]

You were using the wrong pads if they needed to be replaced every day
What pads were you using ?

First stock
2nd G-LOC GS1
3rd G-LOC R8
4th R12

FRONT
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