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Issue with mach 1

Crowd Hunter

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They all look that way, just slapped on. Employees taking absolutely no pride in how things are done.
This makes me think about how Steve Jobs talked about caring how things were made and looked, even if that part couldn't be seen.
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NGOT8R

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This makes me think about how Steve Jobs talked about caring how things were made and looked, even if that part couldn't be seen.
I agree with Steve Jobs 100%. For me, it was paying shops to do work for me, only to get my cars or motorcycles back and find that the shops hired to perform the work had taken shortcuts on my dime. Once I wised up to what was happening, I told myself that I should start doing as much of my own work as I was able to. I have been operating like that for over 25 years now. That Steve Jobs quote: ā€œeven if that part canā€™t be seenā€ holds very true for me. I spend so much time trying to get things right, that I could never go into business for myself, because I would have way more hours invested than someone would want to pay me For my services.
 
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Crowd Hunter

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I agree with Steve Jobs 100%. For me, it was paying shops to do work for me, only to get my cars or motorcycles back and find that the shops hired to perform the work had taken shortcuts on my dime. Once I wised up to what was happening, I told myself that I should start doing as much of my own work as I was able to. I have been operating like that for over 25 years now. That Steve Jobs quote: ā€œeven if that part canā€™t be seenā€ holds very true for me. I spend so much time trying to get things right, that I could never go into business for myself, because I would have way more hours invested than someone would want to pay me For my services.
My wife has been trying to get me to start a business working on cars or flipping houses for years. This is the argument I have been giving her. I would never make a dime because my personality won't let me half-ass anything.
 

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NGOT8R

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So what part of this is your solution to keep it from getting damaged? I thought the seam sealer is what you did to keep it from rubbing.
I relocated my actuators after the harness rubbed and shorted out. Of course I repaired the harness first. Hereā€™s a link to a thread regarding this issue. See post #9 for information on how I fixed the harness. I had to repair it because I couldnā€™t order one anywhere. This is an option for you, if you donā€™t mind not having the option to cycle through exhaust modes.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/active-exhaust-failure.134702/#post-3472832

The other option is what VictorH did (notched the pinch weld). If I had gone this route, I would have used a Dremel with a round grinding stone to make a larger U-channel, (similar to what you see in this pic of my sunglasses holder tray) and spray paint the area with rust proof black paint.

1648425114412.jpeg
 
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DarthMalice

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My wire is not close at the connector however I do see a place midway through the wire where it is touching that bulkhead thing...might be causing an issue there. Dealer looks at it tomorrow...will give them a chance to fix it first although I am going to tell them about what I have found here. It is a shame Ford has not addressed this in a TSB even if it just wrapping the wire like many have done here.
 

NGOT8R

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My wire is not close at the connector however I do see a place midway through the wire where it is touching that bulkhead thing...might be causing an issue there. Dealer looks at it tomorrow...will give them a chance to fix it first although I am going to tell them about what I have found here. It is a shame Ford has not addressed this in a TSB even if it just wrapping the wire like many have done here.
I doubt that the dealership will take the time to fix it properly. They probably wonā€™t have the Steve Jobs mentality: ā€œeven if you cant see it.ā€ The best advice is to unplug the AE connector from the passenger side actuator, drop the exhaust and modify the passenger side pinch weld as described above and you will never have this issue again. If anything, I would request that the dealer order you a new wiring harness if yours shows signs of damage, then do the repair yourself, plug up the new wiring harness and donā€™t look back.
 
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RocketGuy3

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So based on the replies in this thread, I assume this issue is somehow unique to the Mach 1? I'm curious since the active exhaust is obviously not a new feature, and has been available in multiple 'Stang trims for several years now, so you'd think they'd have worked out issues like this by now...
 

LowFlying65

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I read over this thread and decided to do one minute of research. Ford built 17 million vehicles in 2019. At what point in anyone's decision process did they think they were getting perfection from Ford, or any company for that matter, that makes 17 million vehicles per year with thousands of parts in each one, for under $60K?

I've owned dozens of cars and driven hundreds of different models. The Mach 1 is a fantastic vehicle for what you pay.

It looks like you're still under warranty. Take it in and get it fixed. They've been doing this for a long time.
 

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So based on the replies in this thread, I assume this issue is somehow unique to the Mach 1? I'm curious since the active exhaust is obviously not a new feature, and has been available in multiple 'Stang trims for several years now, so you'd think they'd have worked out issues like this by now...
Itā€™s an issue on all trims with active exhaust.
 

cheeser

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I doubt that the dealership will take the time to fix it properly. They probably wonā€™t have the Steve Jobs mentality: ā€œeven if you cant see it.ā€ The best advice is to unplug the AE connector from the passenger side actuator, drop the exhaust and modify the passenger side pinch weld as described above and you will never have this issue again. If anything, I would request that the dealer order you a new wiring harness if yours shows signs of damage, then do the repair yourself, plug up the new wiring harness and donā€™t look back.
I thought a replacement harness wasn't readily available?

If repairing (depin, snip if possible, repin), are the new pins readily available to make the repair yourself assuming there is enough length in the damaged harness? I assume the proper crimp tool would be needed as well?
 

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I have done no modifications...sorry, but this is typical Ford..I know, my 2016 had the evap core issue that had to be fixed which was a total pain in the ass. One day I will learn. I have no way to look under the car to see if I can find a melted or bent wire but it sounds like I guess I need to pull the circuit breaker until they can fix it...and then hope the ghetto #$%^ doesn't happen again.
I mean I can list many Ford, Dodge, GM, VW, BMW, MB cars that myself, friends and family have had that also had many issues.

It's not "typical Ford" its "typical any car made by anyone."

Also how do you not have a way to lay on your back and look under it?
 

Schwerin

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This makes me think about how Steve Jobs talked about caring how things were made and looked, even if that part couldn't be seen.
There is a big difference between engineering it to be RIGHT and just making it LOOK nice.

Jobs only cared about LOOKING nice.

Which was a PITA for the Apple engineering as it sometimes meant he would insist on putting things next to each other in the case or on the board that caused electrical interference or latency which resulted in performance issues with the final product... but you know it looked good... if anyone cared to open it. We can see the impact of that taken to the extreme with Ive's super slim MacBooks that have keyboard, and cooling issues. Way too much time spent on the look and not enough consideration for engineering, durability, and thermal limitations.

There is a reason Macs have long been known to Look nice, but not have the best Performance even against a PC with the same specs. Lets not Forget Jobs was NOT engineer, he was a designer. Woz was the engineer. Jobs only saving grace was that he was often smart enough to hire Engineers to just make it work ENOUGH that for the average person they didn't care if it was underclocked or thermally limited because they never pushed the machine to its limits anyway.

Basically, in Jobs world you'd pay GT350R money but only get PPL2 GT
 
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NGOT8R

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I thought a replacement harness wasn't readily available?

If repairing (depin, snip if possible, repin), are the new pins readily available to make the repair yourself assuming there is enough length in the damaged harness? I assume the proper crimp tool would be needed as well?
In my case, there was enough length left in the harness to make the repair. Others may not be so lucky, as their breaks may occur in a different spot in the wiring (say, closer to the pin). Iā€˜m mot aware whether new pins are available, but if they are, then yes, the correct crimp tool would be necessary.
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