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Coyote Chase

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Thanks for sharing your information! Now I understand why I get a lower ET when I launch at idle vs 1750 rpm... While I'm building boost (heat) at the line, I'm losing horsepower!
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TeeLew

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TeeLew, can you get your car weighed before you modify it ? I would really like to know what it weighs and the type of seats it has in it.
I've already modified the shit out of the suspension. It's a base car (standard seats) with a 6MT, so it's about as light as an HPP is going to be, but I've put fair bit of chassis bracing on the car and done nothing to trim weight.

At some point, I will get it on scales. That just hasn't happened, yet. I've got a diet plan on paper worth about 300 pounds, but it won't be cheap, so I'm putting the performance mods on first. I've kept an eye on weight, even with the engine mods. I figure I'm going to stay around 400 whp, so I went with the CVF street intercooler rather than the big boy. That's 15 pounds off the nose right there. The intercooler is one of the things still adding weight. Later there will be a radiator, oil cooler & meth system, so I'll have added 100# to the car from stock.
 

Cheo

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I've already modified the shit out of the suspension. It's a base car (standard seats) with a 6MT, so it's about as light as an HPP is going to be, but I've put fair bit of chassis bracing on the car and done nothing to trim weight.

At some point, I will get it on scales. That just hasn't happened, yet. I've got a diet plan on paper worth about 300 pounds, but it won't be cheap, so I'm putting the performance mods on first. I've kept an eye on weight, even with the engine mods. I figure I'm going to stay around 400 whp, so I went with the CVF street intercooler rather than the big boy. That's 15 pounds off the nose right there. The intercooler is one of the things still adding weight. Later there will be a radiator, oil cooler & meth system, so I'll have added 100# to the car from stock.
I'm staying on the stock tune for now. I'm adding the G-brace and Steeda springs. Also looking for a factory Recaro that I can install to replace the premium seat (only for race day). Curious to know which tune will net you 400whp (assuming no turbo swap).
 

TeeLew

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I'm staying on the stock tune for now. I'm adding the G-brace and Steeda springs. Also looking for a factory Recaro that I can install to replace the premium seat (only for race day). Curious to know which tune will net you 400whp (assuming no turbo swap).
The stock base seats are about 50# each. The CAM-C rules state that any seat has to be 25# minimum, so that will be my target, a seat that holds me well and comes in at 25#. I might go with a Kirkey AL road race seat; I'm not sure.

As far as the engine mods, here's the laundry list of what's presently in my garage and needs to be installed:

  • CVF Street intercooler and pipes
  • CVF catted downpipe
  • Tomei Cat-back exhaust
  • TurboSmart BOV
  • TurboSmart wastegate
  • AirRaid intake tube
  • COBB tuner
  • 160 deg. thermostat
When I can get 2 free days back-to-back, I'll do the install. Ryan Martin is doing the tuning. I'm going to get 2 calibrations to start, a 91 'daily' map and an E30 'competition' map. If I'm running 91, that means I'm putzing around town or on a longer trip out of town. It will be relatively conservative and hopefully in the range of 350-375 HP. The E30 map will be more a bit more frisky, and hopefully, I can see somewhere around 400 HP out of it.

Later, I'm going to add methanol to the E30 mix and see what I can get out of that. My goal is ~425 HP in this trim. At this point, I'll have pretty much maxed out the stock fuel system and turbo. When I blow up the first engine, then I can get trickier on the next build.
 

Coyote Chase

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Screenshot_2020-12-02-11-14-22.webp

You just never know where you can drop some weight... I ran last season with this "brick" on the nose of my car!
 

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Cheo

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The stock base seats are about 50# each. The CAM-C rules state that any seat has to be 25# minimum, so that will be my target, a seat that holds me well and comes in at 25#. I might go with a Kirkey AL road race seat; I'm not sure.

As far as the engine mods, here's the laundry list of what's presently in my garage and needs to be installed:

  • CVF Street intercooler and pipes
  • CVF catted downpipe
  • Tomei Cat-back exhaust
  • TurboSmart BOV
  • TurboSmart wastegate
  • AirRaid intake tube
  • COBB tuner
  • 160 deg. thermostat
When I can get 2 free days back-to-back, I'll do the install. Ryan Martin is doing the tuning. I'm going to get 2 calibrations to start, a 91 'daily' map and an E30 'competition' map. If I'm running 91, that means I'm putzing around town or on a longer trip out of town. It will be relatively conservative and hopefully in the range of 350-375 HP. The E30 map will be more a bit more frisky, and hopefully, I can see somewhere around 400 HP out of it.

Later, I'm going to add methanol to the E30 mix and see what I can get out of that. My goal is ~425 HP in this trim. At this point, I'll have pretty much maxed out the stock fuel system and turbo. When I blow up the first engine, then I can get trickier on the next build.
Solid plan, looking forward to the results!
 

TeeLew

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You just never know where you can drop some weight... I ran last season with this "brick" on the nose of my car!
Did you sneeze when you took that shot? To which brick were you referring?
 

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Coyote Chase

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Screenshot_2020-12-02-17-14-33.webp

It's the windshield washer reservoir, full of fluid... this thing has to weigh a few pounds!
 

TeeLew

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Screenshot_2020-12-02-17-14-33.png

It's the windshield washer reservoir, full of fluid... this thing has to weigh a few pounds!
I though you might be talking about the bumper. A simple crash bar nets you ~10#. The water in the reservoir is probably 6#. Once you start looking around, there are all sorts of places to save weight, but mine is a street car, too, so I end up carrying it around.
 

TicTocTach

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OK, folks, here's the real poop. This is my bone stock manual HPP with 3800 miles on the clock.

The blue and green runs are both in 4th gear. The blue was with the engine relatively cool and the green was shortly after (w/ a higher CHT at start). The red curve was cooled and run in 3rd gear.

The red shows 263 HP and 294 lbft. The torque comes in so early that in 3rd gear, there wasn't enough time to build more boost. It showed better torque in 4th at 310 lbft. The problem with the higher gear, after a few seconds WOT it would pull power and the run would go to junk. It happens at 5000 rpm on the blue curve and 3400 on the green one. The red curve is pretty much intact, but it seems like the torque curve could use some smoothing on the top. The time for the red pull was about 1/2 of the blue and green.

ChassisDynoCurves_120120.png
Interesting results there - it looks like the HPP stock tune is much happier above 5K than the 2018-19 EB. Here's mine also on a Dynojet, with really similar peak HP/TQ numbers, but mine absolutely tanked above 5K:
48888250807_d11814e570_c.jpg
2019-08-22_Baseline_Dyno by clair_davis, on Flickr

Note also that run 3 and run 4 were about a minute apart - heat soak was strong. Run 5 was after about 15 minutes with the fan blowing through the IC. I have since replaced the stock IC with the large ATM unit and installed the FPP tune, but haven't made it back to the dyno yet. Hopefully this winter or early spring.

EDIT - forgot to mention that the pulls were made in 7th - 1:1 in the A10.
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