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How much ceratec for 2018 GT

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michail71

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Might be too early to call but no more ticking. It sounds like a sophisticated V8 once again.
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Schwerin

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I would be interested in hearing from the guys that have had their Tick go away from using Ceratec if on the next change they used 30 or 40 instead of 20, if it stays away. It would help determine if it is something in Ceratec helping or just that the oil is thicker from adding it. I wonder how long it takes 20 so start sheering. That may be part of why people don't hear it till a few hundred miles, but it doesn't answer why people won't hear it until after their oil change.

I feel like there are a lot of variable being added to this and none are getting ruled out in anyway as related, unrelated, or another issue entirely.
 

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I would be interested in hearing from the guys that have had their Tick go away from using Ceratec if on the next change they used 30 or 40 instead of 20, if it stays away. It would help determine if it is something in Ceratec helping or just that the oil is thicker from adding it. I wonder how long it takes 20 so start sheering. That may be part of why people don't hear it till a few hundred miles, but it doesn't answer why people won't hear it until after their oil change.

I feel like there are a lot of variable being added to this and none are getting ruled out in anyway as related, unrelated, or another issue entirely.
Yeah, the tick showing up after an oil change is opposite of what you'd think if it was due to oil shearing.

Some guys have tried using 5W-30 and the tick was still there. Not sure about results of oil thicker than 5W-30 being used.

But since Ceratec seems to cure the tick, the formulation of the oil may be the biggest factor over the viscosity. Some guys have gotten rid of the tick with only 1/2 a bottle of Ceratec (so only 150 ml or ~15% of a quart), so I doubt it's increasing the viscosity much when added to 8 or 10 quarts. Seems that making the friction level lower on the engine parts is what cures the ticking - that's what Ceratec does.
 

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Yeah, the tick showing up after an oil change is opposite of what you'd think if it was due to oil shearing.

Some guys have tried using 5W-30 and the tick was still there. Not sure about results of oil thicker than 5W-30 being used.

But since Ceratec seems to cure the tick, the formulation of the oil may be the biggest factor over the viscosity. Some guys have gotten rid of the tick with only 1/2 a bottle of Ceratec (so only 150 ml or ~15% of a quart), so I doubt it's increasing the viscosity much when added to 8 or 10 quarts. Seems that making the friction level lower on the engine parts is what cures the ticking - that's what Ceratec does.
To me that sounds like it would only help is tolerances were to tight wouldn't it?
 

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To me that sounds like it would only help is tolerances were to tight wouldn't it?
Hard to say. It could be that the reduction in friction causes loose parts to not move around as much, meaning friction might make parts slap around because the frictional forces are causing them to move.

An example might be if the rod side clearance is too large, the friction might cause them to slide back an forth on the journal and hit the side of the crankshaft. Whereas if the friction is reduces (ie, with Ceratec), then the friction is reduced and the rods don't move around and tick against the crankshaft.

Listen to the sound the rods make when slapped against the crankshaft.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/how-excessive-is-this-rod.108361/
 

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Hard to say. It could be that the reduction in friction causes loose parts to not move around as much, meaning friction might make parts slap around because the frictional forces are causing them to move.

An example might be if the rod side clearance is too large, the friction might cause them to slide back an forth on the journal and hit the side of the crankshaft. Whereas if the friction is reduces (ie, with Ceratec), then the friction is reduced and the rods don't move around and tick against the crankshaft.

Listen to the sound the rods make when slapped against the crankshaft.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/how-excessive-is-this-rod.108361/
The video + reading that thread does indeed make me think that it could be the sources of the Tick. I saw one other poster saying his engine was replaced due to what his dealer called a rod clearance issue.
 

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The video + reading that thread does indeed make me think that it could be the sources of the Tick. I saw one other poster saying his engine was replaced due to what his dealer called a rod clearance issue.
That would also explain why engines with the BBQ tick don't ever have any metal in the oil or other detrimental effects (oil burning, etc). Rods moving side-to-side (due to excessive clearance) slapping against the sides of the crankshaft journal isn't going to make any metal wear ... just a ticking noise.
 

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That would also explain why engines with the BBQ tick don't ever have any metal in the oil or other detrimental effects (oil burning, etc). Rods moving side-to-side (due to excessive clearance) slapping against the sides of the crankshaft journal isn't going to make any metal wear ... just a ticking noise.
What are the longer term risks for that being out of spec other than the noise though? Not just short term but say when ticking cars hit 40, 80 or 100+K? I would imagine that that extra sliding could add extra stress to the rod over time.
 
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Supposedly people have gone over 100K with the tick.

If I remember correctly my tick started shortly after the first oil change somewhere just under 3,000 miles. I had gone with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5-W20 again for this change at 10,000 miles and replaced 300 ml of the 10 quarts of oil with the Ceratec. I must be driving somewhat hard at times since the OLM kicked on after 7,000 miles. I get up to 6,500-7,000 RPMs a few times per week when I get a clear shot on the highway on-ramp.
 

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https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2695462/14/liqui-moly-ceratec

I believe this is the BITOG thread referred to. I also saw this and have been hesitant to try ceratec.

My old engine never had the bbq tick, but the new one has seemed to develop it. Although it's inconsistent when it happens, doesn't last very long, and goes away once the engine is warmed up; so it hasn't caused me any concern. I had a good run of the engine today, 35 min of expressway driving, then some backroads spirited driving. No red lining but consistently getting the engine speed above 4k rpms (between 3k and 4k seems to be a comfortable spot for this engine). When I parked it and had a listen the thing sounded as quiet as day one with it. It's not nearly as quiet as the 5.0l v8 in my father's new Genesis G80, but mines faster. Makes me wonder if it's thermal expansion at play, or some of the friction modifier additives in the oil that need a good heated run to do their thing. Either way, having heard it first hand, I can easily live with it if it doesn't cause any harm.

I'm so tempted to give ceratec a go, especially considering this engine has a couple hundred miles on it at most, but my skepticism is winning out. I've read close to nothing but good things, but have yet to see anything other than hear say stories passed around a campfire. I even read one where someone claimed to have had their engine idle for about 30 minutes without oil, but was fine because of ceratec. If this little bottle was that effective, I can't help but think it would be more popular.
 

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https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2695462/14/liqui-moly-ceratec

I believe this is the BITOG thread referred to. I also saw this and have been hesitant to try ceratec.
Did you see this post of his, saying the compressor sat all winter with the Ceratec in it?
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...ics/4622861/re-liqui-moly-ceratec#Post4622861

Also, how does he know what was in the pan was caused by Ceratec. Did he ever pull the pan off and look before ever using Ceratec? Seems to be missing some scientific evidence.
 

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It actually looks like he refers to MoS2 in the post, which isn't Ceratec at all.
I'll be coming due for my first oil change after adding Ceratec sometime next month.. Will probably send a sample off to Blackstone as well. I'll post my findings.
 

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Here's another BITOG thread on Ceratec (back from 2016). The OP used other Liqui Moly products too, so hard to say what went on.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4269295/1

Has anyone here who added Ceratec to their Coyote ever look down inside the oil fill hole with a flashlight to see what it looks like inside the engine?
 

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Did you see this post of his, saying the compressor sat all winter with the Ceratec in it?
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...ics/4622861/re-liqui-moly-ceratec#Post4622861

Also, how does he know what was in the pan was caused by Ceratec. Did he ever pull the pan off and look before ever using Ceratec? Seems to be missing some scientific evidence.
I just stumbled upon it while googling things about ceratec. That incident with "Trav" was referenced in a couple of other BITOG threads as well to try to combat positive opinions. Mostly from people, like me, with no concrete evidence but find themselves on the fence. I was hoping to find a bit more than I did on BITOG regarding how useful ceratec is.

There's also this thread https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/tech...era-tec-friction-modifier-my-skoda-laura.html that takes an interesting approach for evaluating ceratec.

Liqui Moly makes their own oil, iir. Do they have ceratec added to the base additive package for any of their oils?
 
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michail71

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Well, in reading that it seems the issue was related to older and poorly maintained engines that had preexisting sludge issues. I'm not sure we could even infer Ceratec was the cause in such cases. Attempting to even clean an engine with sludge can make things worse.

Being a German company they probably don't understand not everyone keeps up on maintenance.
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