Yeah, the tick showing up after an oil change is opposite of what you'd think if it was due to oil shearing.I would be interested in hearing from the guys that have had their Tick go away from using Ceratec if on the next change they used 30 or 40 instead of 20, if it stays away. It would help determine if it is something in Ceratec helping or just that the oil is thicker from adding it. I wonder how long it takes 20 so start sheering. That may be part of why people don't hear it till a few hundred miles, but it doesn't answer why people won't hear it until after their oil change.
I feel like there are a lot of variable being added to this and none are getting ruled out in anyway as related, unrelated, or another issue entirely.
To me that sounds like it would only help is tolerances were to tight wouldn't it?Yeah, the tick showing up after an oil change is opposite of what you'd think if it was due to oil shearing.
Some guys have tried using 5W-30 and the tick was still there. Not sure about results of oil thicker than 5W-30 being used.
But since Ceratec seems to cure the tick, the formulation of the oil may be the biggest factor over the viscosity. Some guys have gotten rid of the tick with only 1/2 a bottle of Ceratec (so only 150 ml or ~15% of a quart), so I doubt it's increasing the viscosity much when added to 8 or 10 quarts. Seems that making the friction level lower on the engine parts is what cures the ticking - that's what Ceratec does.
Hard to say. It could be that the reduction in friction causes loose parts to not move around as much, meaning friction might make parts slap around because the frictional forces are causing them to move.To me that sounds like it would only help is tolerances were to tight wouldn't it?
The video + reading that thread does indeed make me think that it could be the sources of the Tick. I saw one other poster saying his engine was replaced due to what his dealer called a rod clearance issue.Hard to say. It could be that the reduction in friction causes loose parts to not move around as much, meaning friction might make parts slap around because the frictional forces are causing them to move.
An example might be if the rod side clearance is too large, the friction might cause them to slide back an forth on the journal and hit the side of the crankshaft. Whereas if the friction is reduces (ie, with Ceratec), then the friction is reduced and the rods don't move around and tick against the crankshaft.
Listen to the sound the rods make when slapped against the crankshaft.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/how-excessive-is-this-rod.108361/
That would also explain why engines with the BBQ tick don't ever have any metal in the oil or other detrimental effects (oil burning, etc). Rods moving side-to-side (due to excessive clearance) slapping against the sides of the crankshaft journal isn't going to make any metal wear ... just a ticking noise.The video + reading that thread does indeed make me think that it could be the sources of the Tick. I saw one other poster saying his engine was replaced due to what his dealer called a rod clearance issue.
What are the longer term risks for that being out of spec other than the noise though? Not just short term but say when ticking cars hit 40, 80 or 100+K? I would imagine that that extra sliding could add extra stress to the rod over time.That would also explain why engines with the BBQ tick don't ever have any metal in the oil or other detrimental effects (oil burning, etc). Rods moving side-to-side (due to excessive clearance) slapping against the sides of the crankshaft journal isn't going to make any metal wear ... just a ticking noise.
Did you see this post of his, saying the compressor sat all winter with the Ceratec in it?https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2695462/14/liqui-moly-ceratec
I believe this is the BITOG thread referred to. I also saw this and have been hesitant to try ceratec.
I just stumbled upon it while googling things about ceratec. That incident with "Trav" was referenced in a couple of other BITOG threads as well to try to combat positive opinions. Mostly from people, like me, with no concrete evidence but find themselves on the fence. I was hoping to find a bit more than I did on BITOG regarding how useful ceratec is.Did you see this post of his, saying the compressor sat all winter with the Ceratec in it?
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...ics/4622861/re-liqui-moly-ceratec#Post4622861
Also, how does he know what was in the pan was caused by Ceratec. Did he ever pull the pan off and look before ever using Ceratec? Seems to be missing some scientific evidence.