How many miles before hitting redline ?

[Cory S]

Straight to the dyno lmao

LOVE IT!

Nah. Engine was installed in the car next to the Dyno. LOL. I think it had 30 FEET on the odometer backing it on the Dyno.

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[kz]

My soft limiter is at 8500, hard limiter at 9000.

Gen 3 block right ? Stock or aftermarket OPG ?

 

[Cory S]

Gen 3 block right ? Stock or aftermarket OPG ?

Gen 2, Boundary OPG/CS set.

 

[Charlemagne]

It’s very frustrating. I’d like for mine to hit redline using WOT in track mode with TC off, but about 7K is all it will do.

There's no reason not to shit. You want to be at rpm where is max power, not 1000 rpm above. Shift with paddles in the Sport mode and it will go to redline if that's what you want.

 

[CorvZ061]

There are 2 thoughts on this, and neither are wrong, I believe in breaking it in how it will be driven. Others believe in going by the book.

I’ve built several engines and have always broke them in hard, they all are still running and driving. My personal big block Chevy in my other car was built, and started for the first time on the dyno. It was “driven” for a bit on the dyno to help the rings seat for about 30 minutes at varying RPM and then some power runs made. Made 682/657 and it’s running great 5 years later beat on everytime it’s run.

 

[K4fxd]

There's no reason not to shift.

In some instances in road or auto x racing it is faster to bounce the limiter than to shift.

 

[K4fxd]

With todays rings and honing it is best to run them hard early in life to get a proper lasting ring seal.

 

[WildHorse]

Those who believe in a easy break-in approach would lose their shit on how Top Fuelers break there engines in ha-ha.

 

[Racer57]

Its easy to tell who has built engines and who probably hasn't ever changed their own oil.

 

[Charlemagne]

In some instances in road or auto x racing it is faster to bounce the limiter than to shift.

Even with the freaking-fast 10R80? It takes just a moment. Sure, there can be cases when it's not desired like upshift shortly before curve but that can be regulated by gas pedal. I'll take shift at 7k rather than drop of power at limiter.

 

[Racer57]

Those who believe in a easy break-in approach would lose their shit on how Top Fuelers break there engines in ha-ha.

They fire them up to break in engine and clutch for couple minutes, then use 6-7 gallons of methane with nitro in it in 1,000 feet and have to rebuild the engine and clutch when they come back. So, your right.

 

[80FoxCoupe]

My car saw redline 3 times on the way home from the new car dealer.

Break it in the way you plan to drive it.

I'd be on the gas from the get go.

 

[Jasonb543]

I like this thread!

 

[black22gt]

day one off the dealer's lot and as soon as the the engine temp stabilzed i did three easy pulls to mid tach with compression braking back down each pull. then three moderate pulls to moderate tach with full compression braking back down. then three wide open pulls to redline with compression braking. i averaged 11 mpg on the 1st tank. every tank thereafter sees redline at least once. i also hpde and autocross occasionally. today the car runs fantastic with very little oil consumption at 30k. i also changed the oil and filter (pup 5w30) as soon as i got it home.

Your post, is almost exactly what i did. I did the "motoman" break in method he recommends for the dyno, but i did mine on the street before i hit 16 miles on the odometer, leaving the dealer with 4 miles. 3 sets of 3 pulls just as you described, maybe 1 or 2 more. I did not change the oil though, waited until 5k for that. Landed on letting whatever additives in the initial batch settle in good, was hoping to avoid the tick. Not so much success on that front, but i rarely hear it so who cares. That's what track exhaust mode is for!

A little over a year later, got 30k and the dipstick is rock solid as best as i can tell every change. And I check the level at the dealer before i start the car back up so i have a solid reference for that oil change. They usually have it sitting there for at least 30 minutes before calling me, plenty of time for the oil to drain back down, and i track it using fordpass so i know these things.

1 week after getting the car, we went on a vacation to the coast, texas to south carolina. I followed the books instructions, varying the rpm, switching between 4th, 5th, and 6th as we went along until we got to 1000. Finally in I believe Alabama, finally got to open her up proper and finally got at that adaptive cruise control. That was the hardest 1000 miles, i like smooth and steady, not acceleration, then deceleration, then shift into a different gear, rinse and repeat. I assumed all this was for the drivetrain and the rest of the car as the engine, and I plan on keeping my car going for hopefully a few hundred thousand miles! I also never ever hit it more than 2200 rpm before it reaches 180 degrees CHT, not then and not now.

I guess i do like acceleration and deceleration, it is why i bought the car after all, but i like it on my terms! Now she sees over 5k at least once every day i take it out, which is at least 5 days a week since it is my daily. I may be OCD and anal retentive about caring for it, but it does get driven like how it is intended to be driven! And she never disappoints!

 

[MrDude_1]

You don't feel that any part of the drive line needs broken in ?

I think you inadvertently showed the flaw in your logic right here.
It's not about how you feel about it.

When you personify a mechanical device because you don't understand it, It becomes very easy to come to incorrect conclusions.

The car itself doesn't know the difference between after a few minutes it's been run and a thousand miles.
A "break in" as you're thinking of it would mean that you have mechanical wear going against parts so they work better together.

If you actually had a noticable mechanical wear on the engine, transmission, rear end, etc after a short period of time like that these cars would never see 25,000 mi never mind the 150,000 or 200,000 mi that they're capable of seeing with proper maintenance.

And that becomes obvious if you work on vehicles. When you pull out an engine that has 100,000 mi on it and hundreds of drag strip runs and track days And you still see the factory crosshatch on the cylinders... Awesome.

When you pull out an engine that had issues unexpectedly, you usually see wear on items, whether it's the valve train or the drive for the valve train or the rotating assembly itself... It's a defect. It's an issue That needs to be resolved but it doesn't matter if you drove it nicely or you drive it hard, wear is occurring and will eventually damage something. By it's very definition it's damaging.

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