Scootsmcgreggor
Well-Known Member
You’re so unnecessarily aggressive. Time and again. It’s just an Internet forum don’t take yourself too seriously.I take that shit seriously, Fuckwit.
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You’re so unnecessarily aggressive. Time and again. It’s just an Internet forum don’t take yourself too seriously.I take that shit seriously, Fuckwit.
I wish you weren’t so fuckin’ awkward, bud.I take that shit seriously, Fuckwit.
sure, that's a fine way to do it. out of the box the car is pretty great.The more I read threads like this, the more I steer away from modifying my PP1.
EVERY action has a reaction. Many aren't aware of how changes can affect things negatively. If I want a better handling street car?
I will have to look towards a Porsche or a Corvette for that. LT6 may influence that.
Unless you are heading to the track, factory setups are hard to beat for overall balance and performance.
I had a customer in my shop with my identical option list. He did the Steeda lowering springs etc.. Drove like crap on the street compared to my stock PP1. I let him drive mine too. He agreed. Says he wishes he didn't bother. I would have to agree in that case.
Ford put some serious engineering time finding a proper combo that works well on the street. It's going to be hard to beat without trade offs.
I will say, it's stance looked better than mine. Looks aren't everything.
no, but if you want to play 'what if' you'll need them obviouslyAre the adjustable sways necessary?
Swaybar | Diameter | Front Rate | Rear Rate | Front Wheel Rate | Rear Wheel Rate | |||
GT PP | 32 | 23 | 295 | 123 | 289 | 75 | ||
GT PP2 (x, 24s) | 24 | 205 | 0 | 125 | ||||
EB HPP+HP | 34 | 24 | ||||||
GT350 | 350 | 130 | 343 | 79 | ||||
GT350R | 350 | 230 | 343 | 140 | ||||
FP Track (M-5490-G) | 37.1 | 25.3 | ||||||
BMR soft | 377 | 200 | 369 | 122 | ||||
BMR med | 439 | 289 | 430 | 176 | ||||
BMR stiff | 501 | 378 | 491 | 230 | ||||
Eibach soft | 35 | 25 | 372 | 198 | 365 | 120 | ||
Eibach med | 475 | 234 | 466 | 142 | ||||
Eibach stiff | 515 | 285 | 505 | 173 | ||||
Steeda soft | 35 | 24 | 520 | 280 | 510 | 170 | ||
Steeda med soft | 580 | 350 | 568 | 213 | ||||
Steeda med stiff | 650 | N/A | 637 | N/A | ||||
Steeda stiff | 725 | 425 | 711 | 259 | ||||
Steeda soft (38) | 38 | N/A | 0 | |||||
Steeda med soft (38) | N/A | 0 | ||||||
Steeda med stiff (38) | N/A | 0 | ||||||
Steeda stiff (38) | N/A | 0 | ||||||
Pedders soft | 455 | 170 | 446 | 103 | ||||
Pedders med | 492 | 197 | 482 | 120 | ||||
Pedders stiff | 530 | 224 | 519 | 136 | ||||
Whiteline (BFF95z, BFR68z) | 30 | 25 | 0 | 0 | ||||
H&R 72692 (solid) | 34 | 25 | refuse to disclose | |||||
RTR | 35 | 25 |
It's pretty simple; play nice and so will I.You’re so unnecessarily aggressive. Time and again. It’s just an Internet forum don’t take yourself too seriously.
Yeah its not rocket science. If you don’t want to ruin the ride, don’t lower the car and inch or more on soft springs. Many lowering springs are too low with not enough spring rate, and they’re installed on stock shocks.The more I read threads like this, the more I steer away from modifying my PP1.
EVERY action has a reaction. Many aren't aware of how changes can affect things negatively. If I want a better handling street car?
I will have to look towards a Porsche or a Corvette for that. LT6 may influence that.
Unless you are heading to the track, factory setups are hard to beat for overall balance and performance.
I had a customer in my shop with my identical option list. He did the Steeda lowering springs etc.. Drove like crap on the street compared to my stock PP1. I let him drive mine too. He agreed. Says he wishes he didn't bother. I would have to agree in that case.
Ford put some serious engineering time finding a proper combo that works well on the street. It's going to be hard to beat without trade offs.
I will say, it's stance looked better than mine. Looks aren't everything.
I'm not aware of it being wrong. it is ONE HELL of a STIFF bar.Is that a missprint on the Steeda 35mm bar? It is much stiffer than either the BMR or Eibach 35mm.
@tj@steeda
that's what she said.I'm not aware of it being wrong. it is ONE HELL of a STIFF bar.
I did the Steeda springs on the stock OEM PP1 shocks/struts and it was an improvement over stock, but I wasn't happy, something felt off in tight high speed situations. Overall was better than the stock, but.... I had already added the front Steeda Brace, and IRS bracing which made a real difference, and immediately noticeable.The more I read threads like this, the more I steer away from modifying my PP1.
EVERY action has a reaction. Many aren't aware of how changes can affect things negatively. If I want a better handling street car?
I will have to look towards a Porsche or a Corvette for that. LT6 may influence that.
Unless you are heading to the track, factory setups are hard to beat for overall balance and performance.
I had a customer in my shop with my identical option list. He did the Steeda lowering springs etc.. Drove like crap on the street compared to my stock PP1. I let him drive mine too. He agreed. Says he wishes he didn't bother. I would have to agree in that case.
Ford put some serious engineering time finding a proper combo that works well on the street. It's going to be hard to beat without trade offs.
I will say, it's stance looked better than mine. Looks aren't everything.
Cool. It's always fun to find out the next step in the story. The spring rubber will show up as a polyurethane donut of sorts. Take a hack-saw and cut the ring once. Put the car in the air and feed what is now a polyurethane strip of sort in between the middle coil. Use zip ties to secure it in the spring. I drove on a pair for 6 months and they still basically look new.@shogun32 called it. I am bottoming on the struts. The rear shocks still have about 1/4 inch of travel so the rear is OK.
I have ordered the spring rubbers hopefully this will give me enough spring rate and I can simply remove them for street.
Are the adjustable sways necessary? I suppose I should try the rubbers then decide.
This is kind of true the stock PP1 is great suspension for a GT car to go on a cruise with. But it understeer from the factory and the body roll is what don't make it a great track car. Also the bouncing in the back on highway speeds is super annoying especially if you spend 9 years driving a fiesta which is doing the same at the back. I get that ford engineers think that bouncing rear like is a ship is a comfy ride but it's annoying. With that in mind when I first start developing my car I did surprisingly little to make it a great canyon carver just Steeda Camber Plates and front swaybar with the right street settings the car was amazing in the corners and was perfectly neutral to drive. Then I decided to step up to coilovers and since most of the rubber in the shocks/struts is gone now it made a lot more NVH but it drives even better than stock much faster on track.Unless you are heading to the track, factory setups are hard to beat for overall balance and performance.
I had a customer in my shop with my identical option list. He did the Steeda lowering springs etc.. Drove like crap on the street compared to my stock PP1. I let him drive mine too. He agreed. Says he wishes he didn't bother. I would have to agree in that case.
Ford put some serious engineering time finding a proper combo that works well on the street. It's going to be hard to beat without trade offs.
I will say, it's stance looked better than mine. Looks aren't everything.