Help getting clearance tapping subframe bolt hole

[timofimo]

Hi all,

I'm a complete novice when it comes to working on cars. I'm trying to learn by doing. So I ordered the Steeda lowering springs, subframe bushing support kit and alightment kit and I tried to install them over the weekend. I somehow managed to cross thread the subframe bolt hole on the front driver side. Now thanks to this amazing community I found out that to fix this I should try tapping the bolt hole using a M14x2 tapping bit.

My next problem is that I live in the Netherlands. Getting parts and tools here is a really big pain in the butt. We unfortunetly don't have a Harbour Freight or anything like it for as far as I'm aware. Now I've managed to source the M14x2 tapping bit, a tap wrench and an extension. Unforntunely I can't use any of them because no matter what I try I can't get enough clearance under the car to twist the tap wrench. The handles of the tap wrench hit the fuel tank, vertical links (I think???) and mounting points of the spring bucket. I can't shorten them and I haven't been able to find one with shorter handles. (see images)

So I've actually got 2 questions.
1. How can I get clearance to tap the bolt hole? The only way I think it would be possible using the tools I have now is to drop the entire subframe. But I'm worried I won't be able to realign the subframe afterwards and create an even bigger problem for myself.
2. What do the Harbour Freight tools look like? Maybe I'm just using the wrong tools, but like I said I can't just hop over to HF and get the same tools that get recommended by most Forum members. Knowing what I should be looking for would help a lot.

Thanks a lot!

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[GTP]

Sorry for your predicament.

If you can source a 10mm 12-point socket, then that should hold onto the square end of the tap (assuming it measures 8.2mm).

Then you can add a long extension to the socket and use your socket handle to drive in the tap.

The scary part is starting the tap straight, and then feeling that it is cutting the threads properly. The tap should "free up" pretty quickly, because I doubt your threads are damaged that bad.

It should be easy to judge that the tap starts straight because the extension is so long.

It also looks like your tap may be a "bottoming" tap, instead of tapered. Tapered is a better choice for this application. It would be easier to start and clean the threads more gradually.

 

[Cobra Jet]

Sorry for your predicament.

If you can source a 10mm 12-point socket, then that should hold onto the square end of the tap (assuming it measures 8.2mm).

Then you can add a long extension to the socket and use your socket handle to drive in the tap.

The scary part is starting the tap straight, and then feeling that it is cutting the threads properly. The tap should "free up" pretty quickly, because I doubt your threads are damaged that bad.

It should be easy to judge that the tap starts straight because the extension is so long.

It also looks like your tap may be a "bottoming" tap, instead of tapered. Tapered is a better choice for this application. It would be easier to start and clean the threads more gradually.

Definitely a good recommendation. As stated, the most important aspect is making sure to start any tap process straight. Don't rush through it and try to clean any debris from the threaded hole first, that also helps with starting any repairs.

 

[timofimo]

Alright, thank you guys! I've ordered some new tools based on your suggestions. Let's see if I can make it work once they get here

 

[Oldschool]

Also try using a “T” handle tap wrench. Better for use in confined space.

 

[GTP]

Alright, thank you guys! I've ordered some new tools based on your suggestions. Let's see if I can make it work once they get here

What did you order?

 

[timofimo]

What did you order?

I ordered a 12 point socket set (the tap is indeed 8.2mm), a wire brush kit and some cutting oil. The oil was recommended by the clerk at the hardware store to clean out the metal shavings. I already had a tapered tap, it came with the same kit as the bottoming tap. I just didn't realize they were different.

Also try using a “T” handle tap wrench. Better for use in confined space.

I also put in an order for one of those. I could only find 1 online retailer that sold one big enough to fit an M14 tap. It was expensive but whatever. If it can help get my car back on 4 wheels it's probably worth it.

 

[shogun32]

the factory alignment of the IRS is garbage. drop the IRS and use the Steeda delrin dowels to re-align on install. This will give you lots of room to work. I can't remember if the metal channel surrounding the tapped hole is flat or not. If so, an easy way to 'start' the tap straight is to use a socket pressed up against the sheetmetal and the tap shaft running thru the socket. anything cylindrical with square face will work too.

It should only take light pressure (a little more than finger-tip) to work the tap. If much more stop and re-check to make sure.

If the hole is accessible from the top and is thru-tapped, it's always better to repair threads from known-good engagement.

 

[WD Pro]

I can't remember if the metal channel surrounding the tapped hole is flat or not. If so, an easy way to 'start' the tap straight is to use a socket pressed up against the sheetmetal and the tap shaft running thru the socket. anything cylindrical with square face will work too.

If the hole is accessible from the top and is thru-tapped, it's always better to repair threads from known-good engagement.

Here you go (not my picture) :

WD

 

[shogun32]

hmm, so the OE is just a nutsert pressed into the frame member? Best answer is to replace the nutsert.

 

[WD Pro]

I think it’s in a section that can’t be accessed from the back after the body is completed - I’m not 100% on that though …

WD

 

[GTP]

I think it’s in a section that can’t be accessed from the back after the body is completed - I’m not 100% on that though …

WD

I recently had my back seat out. Too bad I didn't look for these threaded holes then.

OP your back seat comes out easily. Locate and push in on two plastic catches at the lower front edge of the seat bottom and then pivot it up.

 

[timofimo]

I recently had my back seat out. Too bad I didn't look for these threaded holes then.

OP your back seat comes out easily. Locate and push in on two plastic catches at the lower front edge of the seat bottom and then pivot it up.

I checked. It's not accessible from inside the car. There are no holes where the bolt hole would be. At the bottom of the car you can also see there is a small piece that the subframe bolts into. Which then connects it to the car. I don't see any way to loosen that piece.

 

[timofimo]

Managed to put the car back together. Tapping the bolt hole was quite simple once I had the right tools. What I ended up using was a ratchet t handle with an extension. I turned it in very slowly. Backing up almost a full turn after every quarter turn going in. The bolt went in smoothly and torqued to spec without any more issues.

I cleaned out the hole before tapping with a wire brush. A lot of debris came out so I'd definitely recommend it.

Thanks everyone!

 

[Weyland-Yutani]

Also try using a “T” handle tap wrench. Better for use in confined space.

Yes. Search "Long-Reach Ratchet Tap Wrench" for something like this.

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