K4fxd
Well-Known Member
Take them to a machine shop, not autozone.I have yet to find a shop willing to touch them and take on the liability.
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Take them to a machine shop, not autozone.I have yet to find a shop willing to touch them and take on the liability.
There is no way to fix the pads? They are brand new:(Your old pads will wear groves into the new rotors so yes new pads also.
I am not going off track car specs I am going off passenger car norms for brake component life and wear which is why I think its time to change. You're within a few thousand, miles of the upper limit for regular cars and performance pads are harder on brake rotors regardless. Cross drilled rotors don't last as long as solid rotors, its a daily for you but its still performance parts.
Not in any practical manner, new pads or risk the new rotors. Its cheap is the grand scheme.There is no way to fix the pads? They are brand new:(
These are semi floating... you cannot resurface these rotors. Well, do what you want but they will not come out true.I wish people would quit spreading myths.
You can turn drilled and slotted rotors.
I’m going off of his measurements of “Front rotors are around 35.5 mm and rears are 26 mm”, that’s adequate thickness and above the min requirements, so turning will flatten the surface. Based on that information, turning would be a cheaper solution as it is an option.Not the groves but look at the lip at the edge of the rotors. It LOOKS to be well over 1mm on just that side.
if the lip really is .35mm shallow then just keep running what you have, I wouldn't even bother surfacing them at this point but when you get new rotors get new pads as well
Yea, it is the floating rotors that pose a problem, but that is solved by a surface grinder.Rotors and pads are fine as long as they’re above the minimum thickness. Surprised to see so many thinking this is a throway scenario.
Also, you can absolutely get those rotors turned. I’ve done a few. A local Napa in the PNW did mine a few times.
Agreed if they're above minimum.I’m going off of his measurements of “Front rotors are around 35.5 mm and rears are 26 mm”, that’s adequate thickness and above the min requirements, so turning will flatten the surface. Based on that information, turning would be a cheaper solution as it is an option.
And new pads are a must regardless of whichever solution he chooses, turning or replacement.
And let me add, if you take a set of rotors to a brake shop to be turned, they will measure the thickness and check the stamping on the rotors for the min thickness, so looking at a picture or even a person measuring them doesn’t matter, they will use their calipers to check that there is adequate material to turn the surface.
I used to build big brake kits and multiple take off rotors would come with the caliper package, and we would have them turned if they were above the min thickness. Many had grooves or a lip and after turning were a perfectly flat surface.
OP take them to get turned.


Minimum thickness is usually stamped on the rotor hatI used a different caliper to measure the rotors and they turned out to be lower, around 34.6-34.7mm. The first caliper I was using is flat on its measuring surface which was making it difficult to get accurate measurement due to that lip. I bought another one from HF that is indented. The lip is also around 0.5mm per side.
The rears are 25.9mm.
The reason I ask for what these rotors measure new is to figure out how many mm I use up per 5k miles or so. Does anyone know the thickness when these rotors are brand new?