Grooved rotors

[UnhandledException]

I have just noticed that the lines on my rotor discs have grooves that I can feel with my fingers. Both driver and passenger side has them. Fronts have more of them than rears but rears also have them. Car has 67,500 miles but before you react to miles, these are all street miles (50/50 highway/street). Pads were replaced at 62,500 miles (and those were the original pads but they still had at least 10-12k miles of life in them).

There is no change in brake performance. There is no vibration on the pedal. In fact, if I didnt look for these lines, I wouldnt notice anything given the way car drives. But the rotor surface is shinier. I remember when the car was new, the rotor was more matte looking.

I have gone back to the pictures I took of the car in various days and I can see even in april 2019, these lines were there (thats around 25k miles ago).

I have a cross country trip coming up in July (2k miles). Not sure if I should replace the rotors now or wait. Also not sure what I should look for as far as warning signs.

Front rotors are around 35.5 mm and rears are 26 mm.

Thank you

Sponsored

 

[Point45]

Change them, how deep is the lip on the edge of that rotor?

 

[Rubyred17]

I have just noticed that the lines on my rotor discs have grooves that I can feel with my fingers. Both driver and passenger side has them. Fronts have more of them than rears but rears also have them. Car has 67,500 miles but before you react to miles, these are all street miles (50/50 highway/street). Pads were replaced at 62,500 miles (and those were the original pads but they still had at least 10-12k miles of life in them).

There is no change in brake performance. There is no vibration on the pedal. In fact, if I didnt look for these lines, I wouldnt notice anything given the way car drives. But the rotor surface is shinier. I remember when the car was new, the rotor was more matte looking.

I have gone back to the pictures I took of the car in various days and I can see even in april 2019, these lines were there (thats around 25k miles ago).

I have a cross country trip coming up in July (2k miles). Not sure if I should replace the rotors now or wait. Also not sure what I should look for as far as warning signs.

Front rotors are around 35.5 mm and rears are 26 mm.

Thank you

67k mile !!!! Well done ! Original engine?

 

[UnhandledException]

Change them, how deep is the lip on the edge of that rotor?

When measured from lip, the rotor thickness is around 36.2mm. When measured from center, its around 35.5mm. So i m guessing 0.35mm.

Change them why though? They have been this way for quite some time (actually I looked at more pictures, and I see as far back as 35k miles ago they were like this).

 

[UnhandledException]

67k mile !!!! Well done ! Original engine?

Yes original everything, even the clutch.

 

[tec548]

That's an awesome run on them, I never would have imagined... but everything depends on your brakes and tires... change them.

 

[Point45]

When measured from lip, the rotor thickness is around 36.2mm. When measured from center, its around 35.5mm. So i m guessing 0.35mm.

Change them why though? They have been this way for quite some time (actually I looked at more pictures, and I see as far back as 35k miles ago they were like this).

That lip is more the concern. Looks very close (actually over) the wear limit for most modern rotors let alone cross drilled ones that are more prone to cracking.

Must be the picture because that looks much larger than a .35mm lip.

Also if it was grooved when you replaced the pads they should have been resurfaced for the new pads if the rotor is still in spec for thickness and runout. 60k miles is insane life for performance rotors and pads, most regular passenger cars get 70k max they must be near the end of life.

 

[UnhandledException]

That lip is more the concern. Looks very close (actually over) the wear limit for most modern rotors let alone cross drilled ones that are more prone to cracking.

Must be the picture because that looks much larger than a .35mm lip.

Also if it was grooved when you replaced the pads they should have been resurfaced for the new pads if the rotor is still in spec for thickness and runout. 60k miles is insane life for performance rotors and pads, most regular passenger cars get 70k max they must be near the end of life.

I did the pad change myself, never bothered with resurfacing the rotors as I knew I would need to change them within the next 20-25k miles.

The pads were changed 5k miles ago. Do I need to change them again or do something with them when I get new rotors?

 

[UnhandledException]

Guys,

I think I need to clarify one minor point as it may not be clear reading my first post. I think most of you drive this car as your track car. And when you provide an opinion, you may be assuming the car is driven aggressively like you drive yours, which is natural. But Its not a track car or driven aggressively. I have a C7 ZR1 and a 991.2 GT3RS that I use for those purposes. I am probably one of the few nutcases in the world who drives a GT350 as the daily car (we dont have another car). So this car goes to school, grocery shop, beach, and back home and rinse and repeat. It also does the 2,000 mile journey to midwest once a year. So dont think these rotors need to last HPDE or tracking. They just need to survive my usage. If you still think they need to be changed,fine I ll change it. I always followed forum’s advice

 

[Wildcardfox]

Get the rotors turned. You still have adequate thickness and are above the rotor min thickness. Grooves happen due to normal wear of pad contacts. But it will effect braking Performance.

 

[Point45]

I did the pad change myself, never bothered with resurfacing the rotors as I knew I would need to change them within the next 20-25k miles.

The pads were changed 5k miles ago. Do I need to change them again or do something with them when I get new rotors?

Your old pads will wear groves into the new rotors so yes new pads also.

I am not going off track car specs I am going off passenger car norms for brake component life and wear which is why I think its time to change. You're within a few thousand, miles of the upper limit for regular cars and performance pads are harder on brake rotors regardless. Cross drilled rotors don't last as long as solid rotors, its a daily for you but its still performance parts.

 

[Point45]

Get the rotors turned. You still have adequate thickness and are above the rotor min thickness. Grooves happen due to normal wear of pad contacts. But it will effect braking Performance.

Not the groves but look at the lip at the edge of the rotors. It LOOKS to be well over 1mm on just that side.

if the lip really is .35mm shallow then just keep running what you have, I wouldn't even bother surfacing them at this point but when you get new rotors get new pads as well

 

[Bitten in '69]

Unfortunately, you needed to change those rotors when you did the pads. Drilled/slotted rotors cannot be turned, they are done. Get a set of the 19/20 solid rotors. For your purposes, you can use Power Stop, or Raybestos pads. Both are fine for street use.

 

[K4fxd]

I wish people would quit spreading myths.

You can turn drilled and slotted rotors.

 

[Bitten in '69]

You go ahead. Tell me a shop that will. In 30 years, I have yet to find a shop willing to touch them and take on the liability.

Sponsored