Swapping Pads...What About Rotors??

[galaxy]

EBC is coming out with their Red (ceramic) pads for our car front & rear. As soon as they hit the streets I’m getting some. Starting a new career and other factors will prevent me from seeing any track time this year, thus no concern about tracking ceramic pads...brake dust is my #1 concern.

So what would you, or ehat do you guys do with rotors when swapping pads around? I know there are guys that swap between track and street pads. I’m sure as hell not taking them to Autozome to be turned or cleaned up. I’m at 2,700 miles now and don’t know when the pads will Ben a ailable. Would you just do the install and a slow break in period before any bedding?

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[raiderjatt02]

The "correct" way is to swap out rotors too but since your car is that new and it's just going to be on the street, don't bother with changing the rotors. It'll be fine.

Hell, I swapped to GLoc track pads at 5k miles did 4 track days, then swapped back to my OEM street pads and haven't changed my rotors yet. Just lightly sand off the old material from your rotors when you swap pads and you'll be fine.

 

[nastang87xx]

The "correct" way is to swap out rotors too but since your car is that new and it's just going to be on the street, don't bother with changing the rotors. It'll be fine.

Hell, I swapped to GLoc track pads at 5k miles did 4 track days, then swapped back to my OEM street pads and haven't changed my rotors yet. Just lightly sand off the old material from your rotors when you swap pads and you'll be fine.

A little 400 grit and you're good to go.

 

[Gstone]

How easy is it to swap pads in this car?

 

[Epiphany]

The first time can be a PIA but there are ways to make it easier each time after that.

 

[HR213]

How easy is it to swap pads in this car?

This will make changing pads and rotors from a pain to very simple and fast, plus eliminate buying one-time use factory front brake caliper bolts and taking the chance of damaging the aluminum knuckle every time the bolts are torqued.

https://caliperfexion.net/

Replace your one-time use factory front brake caliper bolts with much superior, stainless studs or 4340 Manganese Phosphate coated studs.

I'd recommend getting the Caliperfexion stud extensions as this allows the caliper to slide off the rotor for easy pad changes, rotor swaps.

 

[Zitrosounds]

A little 400 grit and you're good to go.

There is absolutely no need to replace the rotor with a pad change. Unless! there are cracks or the rotor is somehow otherwise out of spec.

 

[Zitrosounds]

This will make changing pads and rotors from a pain to very simple and fast, plus eliminate buying one-time use factory front brake caliper bolts and taking the chance of damaging the aluminum knuckle every time the bolts are torqued.

https://caliperfexion.net/

Replace your one-time use factory front brake caliper bolts with much superior, stainless studs or 4340 Manganese Phosphate coated studs.

I'd recommend getting the Caliperfexion stud extensions as this allows the caliper to slide off the rotor for easy pad changes, rotor swaps.

Best and 1 of 2 only mods to my R.

 

[Epiphany]

There are some extremely sharp minds in here.

 

[galaxy]

I already have my studs installed.

I also had zero intentions of swapping in new rotors just driven by a pad change, but I have grown up that new pads should go with a clean surface, i.e. getting them turned. Just curious what guys did.

 

[Zitrosounds]

I already have my studs installed.

I also had zero intentions of swapping in new rotors just driven by a pad change, but I have grown up that new pads should go with a clean surface, i.e. getting them turned. Just curious what guys did.

I can relate. However these rotor are specifically called out by ford to no have them turned. Inspect them after heavy use and if no cracks and within limits, do it again ; )

 

[tracktardicus]

There should be a specific number in millimeters for rotor thickness that indicates they are no longer thick enough to absorb and radiate heat as designed. As long as rotor thickness is above that number and the rotors are otherwise in good shape, you can continue to use them. Does anyone know what that number is?
Also, I would recommend slotted rotors as opposed to drilled rotors for dedicated track use-drilled rotor holes really serve no purpose other than aesthetics and are prone to cracking.

 

[Zitrosounds]

There should be a specific number in millimeters for rotor thickness that indicates they are no longer thick enough to absorb and radiate heat as designed. As long as rotor thickness is above that number and the rotors are otherwise in good shape, you can continue to use them. Does anyone know what that number is?
Also, I would recommend slotted rotors as opposed to drilled rotors for dedicated track use-drilled rotor holes really serve no purpose other than aesthetics and are prone to cracking.

It's stamped on the rotor and in the service manual which I don't have access to right now.

 

[honeybadger]

There should be a specific number in millimeters for rotor thickness that indicates they are no longer thick enough to absorb and radiate heat as designed. As long as rotor thickness is above that number and the rotors are otherwise in good shape, you can continue to use them. Does anyone know what that number is?
Also, I would recommend slotted rotors as opposed to drilled rotors for dedicated track use-drilled rotor holes really serve no purpose other than aesthetics and are prone to cracking.

My rotors say 34mm for the front and 24 mm for the rear.

 

[Epiphany]

This.

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