GLoc Pads...Clunking Around

[galaxy]

Installing my GS1’s and the pads are just the sold plate that the pad is mounted to. There no backing pad or anything like the stock pad. I’m quite confident the pad on the back of the stock pads is just for NHV. Just wanted to confirm that and see if you guys have been installing them as is, or possibly doing something different. What were the results? Thanks.

Yes, I know I took a pic of a front and a rear, but the backing pad is the same.

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[sldghmr]

I installed a set of street brakes without backing pads...no ill effects to report. Liked the race pads a bunch so tried the street ones also. Have had them on car for almost a year now....

 

[nastang87xx]

Grease the back and edges. Everything will be peachy fine.

 

[honeybadger]

Grease the back and edges. Everything will be peachy fine.

Just a general FYI - Don't do this to their track pads. They get too hot and it creates a huge, sticky mess.

 

[nastang87xx]

Just a general FYI - Don't do this to their track pads. They get too hot and it creates a huge, sticky mess.

Well then in that case, don't do that. They get too hot and it creates a huge stick mess.

That's what she said...

 

[galaxy]

Hahahahha!

 

[galaxy]

Well, I guess I found one area where that backing pad makes a difference!

When installing the pads, you’ll notice they fit in the calipers rather easily. They are not tight at all. What does this translate into?? They will move laterally. When you first apply the brakes in either forward or reverse direction, the pads at all four corners clunk as the pad shifts in the caliper up against the perch in the other direction. Once you make that initial forward or reverse stop, it doesn’t do it again until you change directions again. No rattling or anything else going down the road. It’s not the end of the world since I know what it is, but it’s still a little ghetto for a $450 set of brake pads! IDK. But, I guess because RACECAR.

I know there’s quite a few guys with GLoc pads on here...anyone else getting this. There not an easier car to change pads on, so I know everything is right.

 

[raiderjatt02]

Nope nope nope! No clunking with my R12 and R10 GLocs. Once they're installed and I pump the brakes for the first time they're in there nice and snug. I use titanium shims to keep the heat down on track but they didn't clunk when I ran them without shims either.

 

[Sagittaria]

No problems here without the backpads either (GS1s). I am however kind of bummed there are no wear "sensors" at least with mine. I'm a stickler for maintenance so I doubt I won't notice the pads wearing down however.

 

[madlag]

Nope nope nope! No clunking with my R12 and R10 GLocs. Once they're installed and I pump the brakes for the first time they're in there nice and snug. I use titanium shims to keep the heat down on track but they didn't clunk when I ran them without shims either.

I thought about getting those Ti shims....

 

[Tank]

I thought about getting those Ti shims....

Anything to reduce heat, track or not, imho...

 

[galaxy]

So I’m ~500 miles in and the pads perform great. BUT, still getting the horrible clunk every time you initially touch the pedal. Talked to several people and it seems to just be me, which is really really odd cause as you guys well know, there’s just not much of a way to screw up a brake job on this thing. I’m at a loss and decided I’m not going to just live with it.

Any last ditch efforts I can try before going back to GLoc?

 

[madlag]

So I’m ~500 miles in and the pads perform great. BUT, still getting the horrible clunk every time you initially touch the pedal. Talked to several people and it seems to just be me, which is really really odd cause as you guys well know, there’s just not much of a way to screw up a brake job on this thing. I’m at a loss and decided I’m not going to just live with it.

Any last ditch efforts I can try before going back to GLoc?

Have you pulled them off and put back on?

 

[OnTrack]

If you track your car, you'll want the Ti Shims. Otherwise, it'll transfer the heat into the caliper and require more rebuilds. The problem you describe doesn't even seem like piston kickback since you should be able to "Set" the pads on the rotors. This should only occur while turning which creates the knockback, the forward and reverse doesn't make sense since the calipers will have the pressure on pads. I'm with Madlag, take them off and reinstall/torque everything down to validate. Won't take long, but will eliminate that concern.

 

[galaxy]

Have done several times. No dice. The only thing I didn’t do was bleed the brakes, but for the life of me I can’t see what that would matter.

With no pressure on the brake pedal, there is zero piston pressure against the pads. I can rattle the pads around like nobody’s business with the brake pedal fully released.

Wonder, does that mean maybe the pistons are backing off too far when the pedal is released?

One thing I did notice during several install/removals...for reasons I can’t explain (the shape of the pad plate??), my pad sits just ever so slightly further down into the caliper. This creates a condition where the retaining clip/spring does not have as much tension on it as the stock pads did. This was immediately noticeable. But, the pad itself fits in the right spot against the face of the rotor, so...?? This is slightly more noticeable on the front, but pretty minor. But apparently enough to cause this issue. Here you can see how the front sits lower in the caliper and thus lower on the rotor on the fronts.

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