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RoGCobraRV

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Silly question but does tune need reflashing if you replace a dead battery?
 

GT_MTL

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Silly question but does tune need reflashing if you replace a dead battery?
No it doesn't. Flashing is permanent until re-flashing.
 

StangTime

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Today I returned my car to stock. Took it out for a test drive. Summer-like weather today. I drove it like I normally would were the engine noises would manifest themselves. No more rattles, knocks, or off throttle ratchet noises anymore! Car runs perfectly fine now. Goes up hills and takes off from a stop without sounding like it's going to blow a rod. It still has the diesel like idle noise but there is a TSB out stating that noise is normal. I guess this tune did something with the timing that pushed my engine beyond where it was happy. Too bad because it definitely made the car more fun to drive. But even now back to stock, the car is still a blast.

Now I will be thinking about what to do with the parts as they are only useful to someone doing a CAI custom tune.
 

ice445

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Today I returned my car to stock. Took it out for a test drive. Summer-like weather today. I drove it like I normally would were the engine noises would manifest themselves. No more rattles, knocks, or off throttle ratchet noises anymore! Car runs perfectly fine now. Goes up hills and takes off from a stop without sounding like it's going to blow a rod. It still has the diesel like idle noise but there is a TSB out stating that noise is normal. I guess this tune did something with the timing that pushed my engine beyond where it was happy. Too bad because it definitely made the car more fun to drive. But even now back to stock, the car is still a blast.

Now I will be thinking about what to do with the parts as they are only useful to someone doing a CAI custom tune.
I'm glad going back to stock fixed it, but there's still something that wasn't right if the tune was turning your car into a rattle can. I wonder if maybe you had an air leak like I did the first time I installed it? The FP tune operates like stock, just with wider timing adjustments.....

If I were you, I'd be curious and check all the plugs and scope all the cylinders and see if you see anything abnormal. Or, you could wash your hands of it and never think of it again. If so, I wouldn't blame you, haha. But it's always nice to find out the why on something. I know the tune made my car slightly noisier, but nothing like what you're describing except when I had that bad install the first time and air was getting past the TB gasket.
 

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StangTime

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I'm glad going back to stock fixed it, but there's still something that wasn't right if the tune was turning your car into a rattle can. I wonder if maybe you had an air leak like I did the first time I installed it? The FP tune operates like stock, just with wider timing adjustments.....

If I were you, I'd be curious and check all the plugs and scope all the cylinders and see if you see anything abnormal. Or, you could wash your hands of it and never think of it again. If so, I wouldn't blame you, haha. But it's always nice to find out the why on something. I know the tune made my car slightly noisier, but nothing like what you're describing except when I had that bad install the first time and air was getting past the TB gasket.
That's the only thing that still bugs me. I would really like to know why as well. I didn't have problems when I first installed the tune. Why did it take so long to become a problem? I had no drivablity issues and the performance gains were clearly there by indication of the butt dyno numbers. These tunes work on hundreds of other cars just fine, without issue. Except for a very few, now sadly, mine included. When I removed the parts I didn't see anything that would point to an issue. Small amount of hydrocarbon deposits on the throttle body and adapter. Bolts were still tight and the intake tube was on there good.

For the time being, I just want to drive the damn car. I may do some investigating when I have some time to waste.
 
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ice445

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I cut out a hole for the brake aspirator and it's connection since it was rubbing/hitting. It looks like shit (very tough to cut the fibrous liner neatly) but it solves the problem. The hood is back to being easy to close now. I worried that it would only take one ogre slam at a dealership or something to break the elbow after enough heat cycles, since the tube itself is the highest point, as you can see in the picture (the hood tapers down). The seal for the intake can also dig in better now as well.

20230514_190005.jpg

20230514_190023.jpg


Also put tessa tape on the throttle body where it's touching the pcv tube. Not sure why some cars have that issue and some don't. Temporary solution until my mishimoto catch can arrives.

Also, not sure of summer blend is in the pumps now or if I accidentally fixed something (or the car just learned everything it needed to), but it's an animal now. Not really seeing any serious KR anymore. We'll see when it gets hotter, but for now she's ripping.
 

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Today I returned my car to stock. Took it out for a test drive. Summer-like weather today. I drove it like I normally would were the engine noises would manifest themselves. No more rattles, knocks, or off throttle ratchet noises anymore! Car runs perfectly fine now. Goes up hills and takes off from a stop without sounding like it's going to blow a rod. It still has the diesel like idle noise but there is a TSB out stating that noise is normal. I guess this tune did something with the timing that pushed my engine beyond where it was happy. Too bad because it definitely made the car more fun to drive. But even now back to stock, the car is still a blast.

Now I will be thinking about what to do with the parts as they are only useful to someone doing a CAI custom tune.
I'd keep my eye on it, because the tune can't push the car into excessive knock. the KR will come in an pull it back if the timing is too high, it shouldn't ever knock audibly.

The FRPP tune is very mild, its just a tiny bit of extra borderline timing, it doesn't force extra timing where there was none before.
 

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Just got my kit delivered today and have a Lund tune ready to go (Been with Lund for my past 3 Mustangs, hands down the best!)... Not even messing the ProCal. Will be installing tomorrow with an Airaid (860-399, oiled) red filter and ditching that paper filter. Also have the UPR full (drivers' side as well) plug n play catch can setup ready to install! :wink:

Will report back after I get all of my datalogging done and final blessings from Lund.
 

StangTime

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Just got my kit delivered today and have a Lund tune ready to go (Been with Lund for my past 3 Mustangs, hands down the best!)... Not even messing the ProCal. Will be installing tomorrow with an Airaid (860-399, oiled) red filter and ditching that paper filter. Also have the UPR full (drivers' side as well) plug n play catch can setup ready to install! :wink:

Will report back after I get all of my datalogging done and final blessings from Lund.
This should be interesting. 👀
 

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RoGCobraRV

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Interesting, based on some past posts around here Lund won't touch the 87mm throttle body on these kits. Guess we'll find out soon enough if they do. GL
 

ice445

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Interesting, based on some past posts around here Lund won't touch the 87mm throttle body on these kits. Guess we'll find out soon enough if they do. GL
Yeah, that's what I've heard as well. Personally i find it an odd choice, if you were going Lund tune anyway its better to keep the stock airbox or get another intake and just save some money. The power pack is great for something more warranty friendly, but isn't the best in sheer value.

But it will be interesting to see if he will try or not. Most aftermarket tuners struggle with the 87mm throttle body and adapter plate combo...
 

ice445

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Struggle how?
Mine is tuned for e85 and drives ok.
Hmm, interesting. Maybe it was just hearsay then.

Also on a separate note, I unplugged my shutters to finally test that, and not only were my temps 20+ degrees lower on average, but the KR values are way more favorable now. They swing between -2.5, and positive 2 at the most. Before, it was rarely in the negatives, and the highest positive I saw was a 6 when I was giving it some decent beans in 5th gear.

What's even more interesting though is that I can't really make heads or tails of what KR is actually doing when compared to spark advance. I'm pretty sure at least on forscan, a negative value is adding timing while a positive value is reducing it. But oddly enough, spark timing will still go up or down regardless of what KR is doing. On that +6 example, I was still at nearly 30 degrees, and with nothing else changing (like load or throttle angle), the timing actually increased despite KR staying at 6. Not sure how that's possible when borderline usually has the final say in things. But, this is mostly an issue of limited data. If I could see per cylinder ignition correction it would be a lot easier.

I also still don't understand why these cars don't make use of the octane adjustment feature either. Either way though, I'm pretty happy now. It's at least giving me much more margin for those hot summer days/high IAT's. Car drives well, and seems pretty happy. Definitely more power on tap when you keep CHT under 200F like I thought, especially with this tune. It's clear to me now that the shutter logic isn't modified by this tune, even though it really should be (probably a CARB thing that they didn't), since the engine makes more heat. It also likely doesn't factor in elevation either, so my case is probably more extreme than most.
 
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DevereIII

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Interesting, based on some past posts around here Lund won't touch the 87mm throttle body on these kits. Guess we'll find out soon enough if they do. GL
As I stated, I already have my tune file from them. So, yes, they do, and it didn't seem that they had any issue with it. I've been with Lund for a while now and they tuned my 2014 GT CobraJet setup with the tricky FTPP big monoblade TB and my car ran absolutely flawlessly. A little high on idle, (about 100 RPM higher) but they said that would be the case with the monoblade and was really not an issue considering the HUGE performance gains I got. :wink:

Yeah, that's what I've heard as well. Personally i find it an odd choice, if you were going Lund tune anyway its better to keep the stock airbox or get another intake and just save some money. The power pack is great for something more warranty friendly, but isn't the best in sheer value.

But it will be interesting to see if he will try or not. Most aftermarket tuners struggle with the 87mm throttle body and adapter plate combo...
Odd choice to you perhaps, but my choice. I did this simply because I love the stock look of this airbox and the "Ford Performance" on the front. 87mm TB is just a bonus to me. If they had this airbox that would fit on my stock TB, I'd get it. ... But I also do alright for myself so I can splurge for this entire kit to get the parts I want out of it.
I did have the Roush CAI (Lund tuned, with the MAF insert removed) before this. It hauls, just got tired looking at it. It's pretty huge in the engine bay. This FRPP CAI has a much better appearance IMO.

Curious how many tuners you actually spoke with directly. Because I spoke with both PBD and Lund up front with my intentions (to get more than just one opinion) with this kit and both had absolutely no issue with tuning it.

Again, I have the Lund tune in hand. I just need to install the kit today and flash the tune.

Will let you know how it hauls once I get some datalogging done!
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