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Fixed my 2018 GT's 10R80

schmeky

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My trans worked perfectly for the past 20K miles (21K total miles, 7K with boost).

Began with a 5 - 6 flare at lite throttle (shift solenoid issue), then progressed to occasional hard 3 - 4 downshifts (excessive line pressure).

I drove it one day and tried drag mode and would bounce from 3 - 4 - 3 - 4 in rapid succession at lite throttle. so I knew it was time to do something.

Ordered a Ford VIN appropriate valve body and scheduled an appointment at a very good local trans shop.

Had fluid and filter changed, KAM reset, checked for any DTC codes (weren't any), and requested the Adaptive Learning Strategy (ALS) be disabled. Trans shop said there was a "halt" command selection in the ALS. Trans is more aggressive when learning the ALS, so disabling it should keep it more aggressive from this point on.

Drives and shifts perfectly now.

So for those that have a temperamental 10R80, this could help.
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sirben711

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Thanks! I will print this out for the next time I go in!
I have the same hard downshifts.
 

Cobra Jet

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My trans worked perfectly for the past 20K miles (21K total miles, 7K with boost).

Began with a 5 - 6 flare at lite throttle (shift solenoid issue), then progressed to occasional hard 3 - 4 downshifts (excessive line pressure).

I drove it one day and tried drag mode and would bounce from 3 - 4 - 3 - 4 in rapid succession at lite throttle. so I knew it was time to do something.

Ordered a Ford VIN appropriate valve body and scheduled an appointment at a very good local trans shop.

Had fluid and filter changed, KAM reset, checked for any DTC codes (weren't any), and requested the Adaptive Learning Strategy (ALS) be disabled. Trans shop said there was a "halt" command selection in the ALS. Trans is more aggressive when learning the ALS, so disabling it should keep it more aggressive from this point on.

Drives and shifts perfectly now.

So for those that have a temperamental 10R80, this could help.
Interesting, but I’m confused by this statement:
“Trans is more aggressive when learning the ALS, so disabling it should keep it more aggressive from this point on.”

If the trans is more aggressive with ALS on, but disabling it will keep it more aggressive?? Am I misreading that statement, because it seems contradictory…

Has anyone with Forscan seen anything related to ALS?
 
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schmeky

schmeky

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When you erase the KAM, the ALS strategy is supposed to relearn. Trans is slightly more aggressive at the beginning of the ALS.

Erase KAM and disable the ALS, and it should remain consistent with no ALS interpretation of how the ALS thinks it should be.
 

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MAP

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My trans worked perfectly for the past 20K miles (21K total miles, 7K with boost).

Began with a 5 - 6 flare at lite throttle (shift solenoid issue), then progressed to occasional hard 3 - 4 downshifts (excessive line pressure).

I drove it one day and tried drag mode and would bounce from 3 - 4 - 3 - 4 in rapid succession at lite throttle. so I knew it was time to do something.

Ordered a Ford VIN appropriate valve body and scheduled an appointment at a very good local trans shop.

Had fluid and filter changed, KAM reset, checked for any DTC codes (weren't any), and requested the Adaptive Learning Strategy (ALS) be disabled. Trans shop said there was a "halt" command selection in the ALS. Trans is more aggressive when learning the ALS, so disabling it should keep it more aggressive from this point on.

Drives and shifts perfectly now.

So for those that have a temperamental 10R80, this could help.
May I ask around how much all of this cost? I've got a temperamental a10, but Ford was insistent they could not stop the adaptive learning nor could they reset it. Didn't give me a reason. Just said they couldnt do it.
 

Vert

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May I ask around how much all of this cost? I've got a temperamental a10, but Ford was insistent they could not stop the adaptive learning nor could they reset it. Didn't give me a reason. Just said they couldnt do it.
This, I was mainly curious on labor cost.
 
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schmeky

schmeky

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Valve body from Ford was $400.00 ($200.00 core charge, so the price is only $400.00 if you return the removed valve body).

Trans shop overcharged me (in my opinion), total was $925.00 and included fluid, filter, and pan gasket.

So $1,325.00 total.

But wait, there's more.

My trans died last week. So essentially I wasted $1,325.00.
 

K4fxd

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Firsttexan

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I'd take it back to them and have them make it right.
Good luck, It usually is down hill from here.

I have NEVER had a trip to an auto trans shop work out well in 45 yrs of owning cars. Manual trans no problem. The auto trans shops seem to be nothing but con-men.

There has to be some that are honest and capable. But I haven't found them yet.
 

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schmeky

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Firsttexan,

That's exactly why I started doing performance transmission work years ago only for myself, then it morphed over time into quite a lot of side work for me. As I did more and more trans work, I actually got see some the work of the "best" trans builders in my area. What I saw was pretty bad.

Short cuts galore, leaving the old bushings in, not replacing an apply piston seal because the piston was not easy to get to, blah, blah, blah.

I am going to build my own 10R80 with the latest hi-po parts (using the Sun Coast kit with increased steels/GPZ frictions).

I also have the Tuning School 10R80 trans tuning manual so I can tailor the hydraulics and torque management to my force induction combo.

I'm not overly upset, but the trans shop should have been able to examine the residue in the pan and the condition of the drained fluid and determine the trans was in trouble. Any good trans builder can look at these 2 parameters and make a pretty good assessment of what's going on.
 

Mike Pfeifer

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Do you think disabling the ALS or anything else they did had an effect on the trans failing? Maybe not causing it, but speeding up the process?
 
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schmeky

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I had the ALS disabled when the trans shop had it.

The ALS has nothing to do with a failure of a clutch pack.
 

ice445

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Firsttexan,

That's exactly why I started doing performance transmission work years ago only for myself, then it morphed over time into quite a lot of side work for me. As I did more and more trans work, I actually got see some the work of the "best" trans builders in my area. What I saw was pretty bad.

Short cuts galore, leaving the old bushings in, not replacing an apply piston seal because the piston was not easy to get to, blah, blah, blah.

I am going to build my own 10R80 with the latest hi-po parts (using the Sun Coast kit with increased steels/GPZ frictions).

I also have the Tuning School 10R80 trans tuning manual so I can tailor the hydraulics and torque management to my force induction combo.

I'm not overly upset, but the trans shop should have been able to examine the residue in the pan and the condition of the drained fluid and determine the trans was in trouble. Any good trans builder can look at these 2 parameters and make a pretty good assessment of what's going on.
IMO the reward to get good at trans rebuilds has just never really been there, thus you get the standard half assing procedures of just replacing what broke and leaving everything else alone. Most people don't want to pay someone to rebuild their trans, just slap in a reman one or junk the car. Been like that for 20+ years now.
 

CORNYOTE

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Did you have them update the new Valvebody solenoid shift strategy using IDS?

I always update it whenever I put a valvebody in.

welcome to the world of destroying 10R80’s 😂. I’ve been through several now. Probably $9000 worth. I keep a spare trans on the shelf along with a new valvebody at all times. I run extra clutchpacks and have still managed to chew them up. I now run a thermostat bypass in the valvebody and an external cooler out back and try and keep temps under 170. Ford likes them to run hotter, but the clutches under power like to stay cooler. So far this combo with the cooler has held up the best at 1000whp.

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