First parts to fail in engine

[Dr donuhole]

I have a 17 gt, twin turbo making around 1040whp currently at 15lbs of boost. What is going to be the first to fail turning up the power from here? And what am I going to be looking at needing engine wise if I'm shooting for 1300whp?

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[engineermike]

What fuel?

 

[Dr donuhole]

E85

 

[HKusp]

You are probably going to need cams to get to 1300whp. From what I hear, as good as the the stock cams are, you are pushing their limit to get there. Are you manual or auto? If auto, 6 or 10 speed?

 

[robvas]

You are probably going to need cams to get to 1300whp. From what I hear, as good as the the stock cams are, you are pushing their limit to get there. Are you manual or auto? If auto, 6 or 10 speed?

https://www.yellowbullet.com/thread...-stock-cams-thru-a-10-spd-auto-trans.2587451/

1400+ stock cams, only 28psi of boost

the cams aren't really limiting you. Besides, at those power levels you're worried about stock sleeves etc and you need a real built motor if you want it to live very long

 

[Andy13186]

Stay below like 7800 RPM or the rocker arm retaining clips will come off and could cause issues. Also stresses out the fuel system and injectors. Whats your whole setup? I wouldnt even try for more power on a stock motor. Probably should get valve springs etc to prevent valve float.

 

[CrackedHorn]

I think at that power level the odds of many different parts possibly failing increases.....significantly.

Meaning, 10 different engines making 1300hp may fail in 10 different ways
Almost that entire engine is being stressed beyond what the engineering has allowed for.

 

[engineermike]

Probably easier to list what might not break. I think the crankshaft might be the last to go.

 

[chuckhammer]

I was going to say I think the only factory engine internal used in the ~3k HP Snot Rocket is the crank. That's impressive at >6x factory HP.

 

[ice445]

Yes

 

[Angrey]

Stock Gen2?

Your first issue is the gen2 has 11mm head studs that don't penetrate as deep into the block as the 12mm in the newer blocks. So at the power/boost levels you're contemplating, even if you use the fancy new Cometic gaskets, unless the heads are o ring grooved, and even then, it's likely that you'll lift the heads and end up with coolant in the oil.

Second, unless you upgrade the valve springs, especially the exhaust set, you're almost certain to get valve float with all the additional backpressure from the turbos.

Third, the gen2 blocks don't have the improvements to webbing and reinforcement that the newer ones have, so all that torque and twisting stress is likely to crack the block.

Fourth, if you're adding nearly 3 times as much combustion heat to the motor as stock, the rings are going to expand to the point of binding if you do full sauce for more than just a few seconds or start a rip with pistons temps that are elevated, which generally leads to ring lands failing and a cascade of other failures.

IF, (big IF) you run it so that the car only sees the full 1300 hp very sparingly and only for a couple short seconds in the most optimal conditions (low temps, perfect fuel, etc) you might live at that power level for longer than most people expect. I suspect that unless you have some serious suspension and tire setup that you won't be able to see 1300 rwhp without roasting the tires at any speed less than 100+. So if you run it on wastegate and then ramp it in or scramble for full 1300 on the very top end and you don't do that often, you might get by for a bit.

But at those power levels, without upgrading a bunch of stuff the rule of thumb isn't if it's going to nuke, it's when and how many hits you'll get out of it.

 

[Nawsad123]

Id look for rods/pistons/opg's. Things like the bearings n smaller pieces no one mentions is whats probably in line to let go. At 1300 if your motor aint going, itll be your 6r80 if that is still stock. Although stout to about 900, 1300 is def eating it away

 

[schmeky]

^^^^ What Angrey said ^^^^

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