ESS kit install issues.

[Swtbabybilly]

Im sorry to say this man but if u keep having these issues may have to start from the basics, pull the blower back off, flash the stock tune and make sure it runs and drives good stock. If your still having issues that timing cover needs to come back off. I really hope im wrong but just my 2 cents best of luck

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[TheButterBomber]

Im sorry to say this man but if u keep having these issues may have to start from the basics, pull the blower back off, flash the stock tune and make sure it runs and drives good stock. If your still having issues that timing cover needs to come back off. I really hope im wrong but just my 2 cents best of luck

Well both Lund and ESS are saying different things and recommending different things and I don’t know what to do anymore. The belt system makes no sense as to why it’s so loose.

 

[Pistol_91]

The belt is as far back as it will allow it.
You have the brake booster connected to the front, what do you have the back lines set up to? I have nothing back there or up front

Never touched the brake booster. Not sure why it would even been dealt with? All the stuff you need to remove involving the IMRCs is on the passenger side of the back of the manifold. I've never seen a video or a tutorial or write up where anybody touches that line? Do you have an install document where it states that? I'm 99% sure it doesn't do anything with that line in the ESS install manual.

 

[Pistol_91]

Well both Lund and ESS are saying different things and recommending different things and I don’t know what to do anymore. The belt system makes no sense as to why it’s so loose.

If the belt is loose it's either the wrong size belt or it's routed wrong and you're missing a pulley. Cross check the belts part # with ESS recommended belt.

 

[TheButterBomber]

Never touched the brake booster. Not sure why it would even been dealt with? All the stuff you need to remove involving the IMRCs is on the passenger side of the back of the manifold. I've never seen a video or a tutorial or write up where anybody touches that line? Do you have an install document where it states that? I'm 99% sure it doesn't do anything with that line in the ESS install manual.

It doesn’t state to touch it, but Lund said to get a lockout kit and install it. So here we are. There is no instructions anywhere for a lockout install for 2018+ that shows what to do with the line that goes from the brake booster through the manifold and connects to the runner solenoid. The solenoid then connected to the IMRC.

 

[TheButterBomber]

If the belt is loose it's either the wrong size belt or it's routed wrong and you're missing a pulley. Cross check the belts part # with ESS recommended belt.

I did, and purchased a new belt today. Also double checked with ESS themselves and it’s the correct one. The belt is routed correctly I’ve checked so many times it hurts my head. The only pulleys there are is the one on the front cover and the ones on the ESS kit itself.

 

[Pistol_91]

I have no idea what brake booster line you're talking about. You just remove the manifold. Remove all the rubbish in the back and screw a couple plates on. It's pretty simple. There are tons of videos on YouTube on how to do this properly. Here's one....

 

[TheButterBomber]

I have no idea what brake booster line you're talking about. You just remove the manifold. Remove all the rubbish in the back and screw a couple plates on. It's pretty simple. There are tons of videos on YouTube on how to do this properly. Here's one....

Yeah and he says to plug the line.

I have no idea what brake booster line you're talking about. You just remove the manifold. Remove all the rubbish in the back and screw a couple plates on. It's pretty simple. There are tons of videos on YouTube on how to do this properly. Here's one....

At 6:30 he starts to show and talk about the line that connects through the manifold and to simply leave it alone since it’s obsoleted. That’s fine. (More on this line later.)

At 8:15 he shows the line that connects to the front of the manifold, and it’s the top left line that you plug off (since it won’t connect to that obsolete line mentioned at 6:30 any longer). If you follow that line, it’s the brake booster line that leads up to the back of the manifold and to the booster. So when I plug that, it won’t run smooth at all. It wants to die out. Not even, it doesn’t even want to start or try to idle.

BUT if I keep the top left line connected on the front of the manifold, on the obsolete line. Then plug the line in the back. (Basically plugging it farther down the line instead of by the front of the manifold where the video states to) it still won’t run. But if I leave the line unplugged in the back of the manifold on the obsolete line, and let it suck in air as much as it pleases, it runs smoothly. Then if I try to plug it with my finger all hell breaks loose.

 

[slime_bullet]

I fought with belt on my whipple for 2 days. Could never slide it on. So I went get a belt that was 3/8in longer

 

[TheButterBomber]

I fought with belt on my whipple for 2 days. Could never slide it on. So I went get a belt that was 3/8in longer

Well mine is way too long it seems like..

 

[Pistol_91]

@ 6:30 the nipples he's pointing to, I have the back capped, and the front untouched like you see in my picture posted up above.

@ 8:30 he's saying you can remove that line and plug it or leave it dangling off for now until it's plugged. I'm not sure if that line is vacuum or not. If it is, you can't just leave it dangling there. Needs to be cut off and plugged or plugged back into the manifold

Sheepdog covered it on his picture. Only difference is the guy in the video is saying you don't have to cap the manifold nipple. If you're unsure I'd just cap both ends. If it's sucking in air a cap will cover it, if it's not sucking in air then a cap won't affect it. A cap is a fool proof way to make it right. Or just plug the line back into the manifold like I have and like bob lob has on his.

If it doesn't run right with the front line plugged in and the rear nipple capped, you have some other issues.

 

[Pistol_91]

Well mine is way too long it seems like..

If everything is correct then you simply have the wrong belt whether the part numbers on it are correct or not. OR they gave you the wrong pulley size. It may be smaller than what you should have had.

 

[GL95]

Why is Lund even involved in this, they are specifically not a recommended tuner by ESS because ESS had so many tune related issues from them

 

[Coyotebawl]

Measure the blower pulley diameter to confirm it is the correct size . I know they come labeled ,but easy enough to check and confirm

 

[loucas-2021]

This might help if you haven't already done this.

Fix the belt alignment FIRST. Until the alternator is charging properly, nothing else matters.

Then:

Fix the PCV routing exactly per ESS diagram. The fact that the engine runs better with a vacuum leak means the PCV is wrong.

Then:

Re‑cap the rear manifold port Once the PCV is correct, the engine should idle normally with that port capped.

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