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That's what I did. Easy peasy

If your highest reading is 240 and lowest is 212, you're within 12% which is fine. Ford workshop manual says within 25% of the lowest and highest. But yes, I had a few drops of brake cleaner drip from the valve to the head and I freaked out thinking I had a hole on top of the piston.

These cameras with led lighting will scare the shit out of you with shadows looking like holes. Is there an issue?

I have a gen5 stage one whipple on my 2015 gt, but with the 6r80. The only real bump in hp you'll get is when they turn COT off, and if you cats it's a no no. I'm catless, and the aftermarket Trans tune I got is simply amazing. I dynoed a tad over 650whp 500tq in a super hot and humid 110 degree...

I'm nearing 96k on the transfluid. Are you guys dropping the pan and changing the filter or just drain and refill what you took out? Tia

Sounds like what the whipple tunes does when you mess with the torque by gear options. I had first set to 25% torque reduction. Try to go wot from a dead stop and wouldn't go then would take off just like you described. Definitely sounds torque limited related

Can confirm the new site glass on the mishimoto. Also picked it up from Amazon for $180 shipped.

I had a weird rattle a wot at around 6500 to 7200 rpm. Only time id ever hear it and always passenger side. Idk what fixed it, but after installing all new timing components and vct solenoids while doing opgs before my whipple install, I never heard it again. Also changed all the gaskets on the...

I'm running 20x10 35offset square. When I had 275/35/20s all the way around its absolutely flush. The 305s poke a little. Not sure on alignment specs

Yes, that was a typo. Running 20x10s currently.

I'm currently running 305x35x20 R2's on some 20x11 35mm offset wheels. Is switching to a 20x11 or 19x11 going to give me better contact and traction for 305's? Or should I just go to a 285x35 or 275x40. Whipple charged 650-700whp 6r80

Trust me man, I couldn't wrap my head around it either but it was definitely the problem. Seems the nut was just bottoming out on just the piston. That hat part gives it more thread and surface area to torque to the mount. Went from sounding like a busted strut to quiet as a mouse. I actually...

And there was the problem. Wrong top nut! I swear mechanic's these days aren't the same.

I have the orange koni's, bmr min drop lowering springs, and bmr camber plates, and have a bad "loose lumber" noise in the front driver area. Everything is tight and no play underneath, splash guards secured, replaced the vertical links with adjustable ones and still sounds horrible going over...

Have you done a leak down test to get a better idea if it's the bottom or top end? You may just have leaky or sticking valves

You are correct and I stand corrected. Was 2 years ago when i did it.

per the service manual, you pull and test one at a time. i had a shop do mine one time and they did it the way you did it. they also reported one of cylinders was low on compression at 50. i did it myself per the service manual and everthing was between 235-245

If im reading correctly, you pulled all spark plugs out before doing the compression test?

Nada put me around 16k