ESS kit install issues.

[SheepDog]

It’s included in this kit:

https://www.americanmuscle.com/boun...-sprocket-grip-surface-combo-grip-15-hbb.html

So you replaced the timing chain sprocket as well? Did you do this prior to the ESS install? Or have someone else do it? Either way, did the car run right before you moved on to the ESS install?

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[TheButterBomber]

No. There is a dowel on the back side of the tensioner that fits into a hole in the timing cover

It’s in the dowel, so it’s where it should be. I’m so puzzled. It’s definitely slapping the belt around from how loose it is. And the routing seems to be in order. It’s a new tensioner and belt that’s the correct size. There doesn’t seem to be any possibility that it could be the bracket itself off a screw or something or it wouldn’t even fit.

 

[TheButterBomber]

So you replaced the timing chain sprocket as well? Did you do this during the ESS install? Or have someone else do it? Either way, did the car run right before you moved on to the ESS install?

The sprocket and oil pump gears, everything was installed all at once. I’m getting good oil pressure and readings.

 

[SheepDog]

The sprocket and oil pump gears, everything was installed all at once. I’m getting good oil pressure and readings.

Who did the timing sprocket install? The oil pump is driven directly from the crankshaft, so it will work even if your timing is off. Did the car run correctly after this work was performed?

 

[TheButterBomber]

Who did the timing sprocket install? The oil pump is driven directly from the crankshaft, so it will work even if your timing is off. Did the car run correctly after this work was perfomred?

I have a friend that’s a ford tech that does timing jobs on 5.0s all the time and he did it. Went right from that install to the blower while everything was off.

 

[TheButterBomber]

I have a friend that’s a ford tech that does timing jobs on 5.0s all the time and he did it. Went right from that install to the blower while everything was off.

It runs perfectly at 800 rpm, and anything under starts to die out most likely from that vacuum leak. At this point I don’t see how the belt could be so loose with this setup.

 

[SheepDog]

I have a friend that’s a ford tech that does timing jobs on 5.0s all the time and he did it. Went right from that install to the blower while everything was off.

So didn't start the engine prior to the ESS install, but after the timing job?

 

[TheButterBomber]

So didn't start the engine prior to the ESS install?

No he did not.

 

[SheepDog]

No he did not.

This is an area of concern. He may very well have the timing a tooth off.


If you have a vacuum leak that is large enough to make the engine run like shit, or die, then you should be able to hear it-find it easily. If you can keep the motor running at 800 RPM, you can use some brake cleaner to spray around the intake manifold, intake, vacuum lines etc. There will be a noticeable change when the engine sucks in the cleaner.

 

[TheButterBomber]

This is an area of concern. He may very well have the timing a tooth off.


If you have a vacuum leak that is large enough to make the engine run like shit, or die, then you should be able to hear it-find it easily. If you can keep the motor running at 800 RPM, you can use some brake cleaner to spray around the intake manifold, intake, vacuum lines etc. There will be a noticeable change when the engine sucks in the cleaner.

It was being caused by that vacuum line that I now plugged off, I’m hesitant to start it due to how bad the belt slaps around and how little tension it is getting. I don’t understand why it is so loose. And anytime I ever even attempted to try and give it gas to keep at 800 it wants to die even harder. I guess I’ll try to start it up now..

 

[TheButterBomber]

I can even move the belt with my hand when I squeeze it and cause the pulleys to spin from it.

 

[TheButterBomber]

This is an area of concern. He may very well have the timing a tooth off.


If you have a vacuum leak that is large enough to make the engine run like shit, or die, then you should be able to hear it-find it easily. If you can keep the motor running at 800 RPM, you can use some brake cleaner to spray around the intake manifold, intake, vacuum lines etc. There will be a noticeable change when the engine sucks in the cleaner.

Now with the line correctly fitted and capped off. The brake booster and bov are connected to the same line that goes into the front of the intake manifold. I’ve tried starting it now and it won’t even hold it wants to die out.

 

[Pistol_91]

Double check that the belt is as far back as possible on the pulley in the picture.

This is what mine looks like here for reference

FWIW I think one of the more relevant reasons people lock out the IMRCs is when they crank the boost up in an FI application some people were having issues from them getting sucked closed during high manifold pressures.

 

[TheButterBomber]

Double check that the belt is as far back as possible on the pulley in the picture.

This is what mine looks like here for reference

FWIW I think one of the more relevant reasons people lock out the IMRCs is when they crank the boost up in an FI application some people were having issues from them getting sucked closed during high manifold pressures.

The belt is as far back as it will allow it.
You have the brake booster connected to the front, what do you have the back lines set up to? I have nothing back there or up front

 

[TheButterBomber]

The top one you are saying to cap is the line that goes to nowhere in the back so it wouldn’t need to be capped, I’ll go ahead and try to cap the lower one as instructed

I called the bottom one and left the top one open. Wouldn’t even run or build pressure. So I reconnected it and runs perfectly fine with minimal belt hop.

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