GrabberBargeCaptain
Well-Known Member
Does the g2 also have less parasitic drag on the engine ?
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If money is no option, it's not a terrible idea, but its a lot more involved doing timing chains than it is to put the supercharger on. The timing chains are SUPPOSED to be "life of the engine" but that's at stock power levels. That being said parts are over $600 and labor will probably double the cost of installing the supercharger. It has to be at least 10hours on the books.I have a question. I was thinking about an ess g3x with g4 intercooler. I priced it out, parts, and installation..Because I have a 2017 with 40k miles, should I have the timing chains, tensioner, and phasers change before installation? If so, what brand etc...? 93 octane only. Never e85. Not available
I'm looking for the same power level as you and intend on staying on 91 octane with a G2/G3 120mm. Well, at least until it's a toy and not my daily. Even then the G2 can make 8XX on E.I have a question. I was thinking about an ess g3x with g4 intercooler. I priced it out, parts, and installation..Because I have a 2017 with 40k miles, should I have the timing chains, tensioner, and phasers change before installation? If so, what brand etc...? 93 octane only. Never e85. Not available
Thx for the reply. I've read that the 2017 5.0s cam tensioner can cause issues. Im just trying to decide what to doIf money is no option, it's not a terrible idea, but its a lot more involved doing timing chains than it is to put the supercharger on. The timing chains are SUPPOSED to be "life of the engine" but that's at stock power levels. That being said parts are over $600 and labor will probably double the cost of installing the supercharger. It has to be at least 10hours on the books.
I've changed mine twice. Once when I did the built engine with the block outside the car, then re-did it in the car once, meaning re-timed the car, then replaced the whole timing set again both replacements were FRPP upgraded kits and the last time I added the Boss tensioners to it. All of that was chasing a cam correlation code. With a very competent mechanic, in the car both times, it took us about 15 hours start to finish. It's NOT fun. Now that's with a Whipple on the car which adds maybe 2-3 hours.Thx for the reply. I've read that the 2017 5.0s cam tensioner can cause issues. Im just decide what it is i will do
So I'll say this. Unfortunately, I just had to replace my stock short block. The car has 39,375.2 miles on it. I asked my builder if we should change the timing set, and he said there was no reason. He knows I will be going FI very soon and what my goals are. I've worked with him in the past, and he's never led me wrong.I have a question. I was thinking about an ess g3x with g4 intercooler. I priced it out, parts, and installation..Because I have a 2017 with 40k miles, should I have the timing chains, tensioner, and phasers change before installation? If so, what brand etc...? 93 octane only. Never e85. Not available
I'm pretty set on going G2 (120mm) with the G3 intercooler. Even if I want/when I go E85, with a proper fuel system and smaller pully, it'll make more than enough for my actual wants.Don't buy a 1100hp setup to make 600hp
People like to overbuy but if you're sticking on pump gas and not building the car, just save your $
G2 isn't a slouch....9.4 @ 147.5 mph
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/ess-g2-and-g3x-1-4-mile-passes.181571/
This is good info. I am right there as well looking to decide whether to replace those items as well. I guess the decision should be made on a case by case basis according to how things look. Do you have pics of what those compo e t’s looked like on your engine?So I'll say this. Unfortunately, I just had to replace my stock short block. The car has 39,375.2 miles on it. I asked my builder if we should change the timing set, and he said there was no reason. He knows I will be going FI very soon and what my goals are. I've worked with him in the past, and he's never led me wrong.
I do not. However, they said everything looked clean and well-maintained.This is good info. I am right there as well looking to decide whether to replace those items as well. I guess the decision should be made on a case by case basis according to how things look. Do you have pics of what those compo e t’s looked like on your engine?
Some additional points of consideration (as if it weren't complicated enough) for you;Thanks for the help, and please feel free to chime in with any other information you think might be helpful.
Yes. I'm in Houston, so it's Hot, HOT, & HOTTER, with a few days of "cold".Some additional points of consideration (as if it weren't complicated enough) for you;
- Is this your daily driver? What weather conditions will you be encountering? My Mach 1 is a daily driver and is driven in four seasons of weather (except for major snow days).
- What fuel do you have available at the pump? Are you cool with carrying around octane boosters in the trunk? I don't have access to fuel beyond 91 octane and I don't really want to carry around "just in case" bottles of octane booster.
- Do you want to drive around on drag radials full time? I don't, nor do I want to stomp on the gas and feel death quickly approaching.
- Are you cool with potentially having to rebuild the A10 sooner than expected? It seems like the clutch packs burn up around the 600 RWHP mark.