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Engine oil excessive temperature at track

jnoto1971

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My 2018 Mustang GT experienced excessive oil temperature at a PCA HPDE event, which put the car in a reduced power mode. The oil temp was right at the green/yellow line on the electronic gauge. Anyone experience this issue? Moreover, I found that Mishimoto makes a bolt up oil cooler kit, but only for the 15-17 GT. Will not fit the new grill on the 18's and 19's. Any advice would be appreciated.
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Excel

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its the summer...everything is too hot
 

BlackandBlue

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I can’t tell if your car is PP1 or not but if it is not buy a PP radiator. I can get my car hot on back roads. I can’t imagine it doing half a lap on a track in SE weather.

From what I understand oil temp is a calculated temperate off the head and water temp.
 

HeelToeHero

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You have to watch temps when tracking. The cooling system is not up to the task of prolonged lapping. I usually keep the oil temp up and flip back to check head temp periodically.
I'd dump the oil and put fresh stuff in it if you haven't; especially if you aren't running full synthetic.
 

66Bronc1

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I would change the oil and look to buy and modify the Mishimoto oil cooler and make it fit, make different brackets, etc. I thought oil coolers were fairly generic and could mount right in front of the AC condenser some how- but I could be wrong.
 

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BmacIL

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NoVaGT

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Shoulda got a PP car.

At least get the PP radiator and any other cooling bits. Then the next over-heating issue will be the rear diff.
 

HeelToeHero

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Shoulda got a PP car.

At least get the PP radiator and any other cooling bits. Then the next over-heating issue will be the rear diff.
Actually non PP cars don't have the diff overheating issue.
 

NoVaGT

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Actually non PP cars don't have the diff overheating issue.
Because they hit the oil/coolant temp limits first? Because they don't have the Torsen LSD?
 

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BmacIL

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Actually non PP cars don't have the diff overheating issue.
Not true actually, there's just a lot less of them on track going fast enough to overheat the diff.
 

HeelToeHero

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Why is that?
Well at least on 15-17 cars non performance pack (and 2015 performance pack) do not have a temperature sensor. So you will not even receive a warning on the dash.
The reason this less of a problem on non performance pack cars is the gear set. The 3.73 gearing has a much higher pinion speed generating more heat. You can search around on here for more details.
 

BmacIL

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Well at least on 15-17 cars non performance pack (and 2015 performance pack) do not have a temperature sensor. So you will not even receive a warning on the dash.
The reason this less of a problem on non performance pack cars is the gear set. The 3.73 gearing has a much higher pinion speed generating more heat. You can search around on here for more details.
That's a factor, but the clutch pack diff also will get very hot. The PP cars have a temp sensor because the friction inside the diff (helical gears) is what creates the torque biasing vs the clutches in the non PP diff. The real issue is that the diff receives very little airflow and needs aux cooling for rapid driving on track for extended sessions. This is regardless of axle ratio, as people who've swapped to 3.31 on their torsen diffs also still have issues.
 

ddozier

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My 2018 Mustang GT experienced excessive oil temperature at a PCA HPDE event, which put the car in a reduced power mode. The oil temp was right at the green/yellow line on the electronic gauge. Anyone experience this issue? Moreover, I found that Mishimoto makes a bolt up oil cooler kit, but only for the 15-17 GT. Will not fit the new grill on the 18's and 19's. Any advice would be appreciated.
There are a couple of upgrades you should do first, the PP Rad will help since the oil cooler is tied to the Engine coolant, more efficient radiator will buy you more time. The oil cooler itself on the GT is good for about a 15-20min session if the car is driven very hard with the PP radiator in place. I am not a fan of the Mishi cooler unless you are going to use it in parallel with the OEM cooler. On its own it is barely enough to compensate for the removal of the OEM cooler. If you take the front fascia off its a good idea to take the time to seal all of the ducting in front of the radiator to force all of the air to go through the radiator and prevent any of it from spilling around the radiator. Hood vents are also a helpful item but require a bigger commitment to the track since it is a more permanent mod that can not be undone.

Another simple but less fun thing to do is to shift at 6800-7000 rpm and avoid high RPM shifts as this is were are large amount of heat is generated with not a lot of return for the extra 400-500 RPM. If you car is tuned, tell your tuner you are having temp related issues, often the tuner will try for every whp in the tune at the expense of building excessive heat in the heads and exhaust. Its better to give up a few whp for a cooler running engine.

I am in STL as well so if you want to see my setup in person or you need help sourcing parts let me know and I will see what I can do to help.
IMG_6618.JPG


Dave
 

Flipside

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Did my first HPDE Tuesday and had an awesome time but unfortunately I also experienced the same excessive oil temperature as the OP did.
I will be upgrading to a PP radiator for the next event per ddozier recommendation. Hopefully that will solve this issue.
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