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Engine code P0020
- Thread starter honeybadger
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honeybadger
Just don't care
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- #32
Excellent. Thank you!
No pics online from what I can find, so will be a bit of gamble. Got one on the way from Rock Auto. Will keep everyone updated on how it goes once delivered!
tedj101
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You might try sending the picture you posted above to Benny at levittownfordparts.com (private message on the board is the best way to reach him). He has found things for me that no one else has been able to find.
Just a thought,
<TED>
Just a thought,
<TED>
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honeybadger
Just don't care
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- #35
Well, great news guys! The part came in and it looks like the right plug. Just to recap:
I located the short in the circuit with my multi-meter (ohmmeter setting, continuity test function). I stuck a sewing needle in the pin on the harness to ECU connection so I could get the multi-meter lead a connection. I then stuck the other multi-meter lead in the plug to see if the circuit would be completed. The circuit for sensor 1 on bank 2 failed, sensor 2 on bank 2 passed. Both grounds were good. After I confirmed the circuit was indeed broken, I gave the plug a bit of yank, and what do you know, it broke right off. As you can see, the wire broke vs. slipping out of the crimp. Interesting.
Here's what the plug kit contained. The wires on the kit seemed to be 16 gauge, while the original wires were 20 gauge. That part isn't super reassuring since the difference in wire stiffness will put extra strain on the patch.
The good news is the crimp includes a glue that helps seal the connection. Hopefully this help keep things more secure.
After this pic, I wrapped the crap out of the line in heat tape to help secure the connection. Then I re-connected all the plugs, connected my OBD2 reader to the car, cleared the codes and started it up. All's good!
I located the short in the circuit with my multi-meter (ohmmeter setting, continuity test function). I stuck a sewing needle in the pin on the harness to ECU connection so I could get the multi-meter lead a connection. I then stuck the other multi-meter lead in the plug to see if the circuit would be completed. The circuit for sensor 1 on bank 2 failed, sensor 2 on bank 2 passed. Both grounds were good. After I confirmed the circuit was indeed broken, I gave the plug a bit of yank, and what do you know, it broke right off. As you can see, the wire broke vs. slipping out of the crimp. Interesting.
Here's what the plug kit contained. The wires on the kit seemed to be 16 gauge, while the original wires were 20 gauge. That part isn't super reassuring since the difference in wire stiffness will put extra strain on the patch.
The good news is the crimp includes a glue that helps seal the connection. Hopefully this help keep things more secure.
After this pic, I wrapped the crap out of the line in heat tape to help secure the connection. Then I re-connected all the plugs, connected my OBD2 reader to the car, cleared the codes and started it up. All's good!
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Zitrosounds
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Awesome results!!! Glad you fixed it. Also great find on the connectors. Saved and bookmarked for future reference.Well, great news guys! The part came in and it looks like the right plug. Just to recap:
I located the short in the circuit with my multi-meter (ohmmeter setting, continuity test function). I stuck a sewing needle in the pin on the harness to ECU connection so I could get the multi-meter lead a connection. I then stuck the other multi-meter lead in the plug to see if the circuit would be completed. The circuit for sensor 1 on bank 2 failed, sensor 2 on bank 2 passed. Both grounds were good. After I confirmed the circuit was indeed broken, I gave the plug a bit of yank, and what do you know, it broke right off. As you can see, the wire broke vs. slipping out of the crimp. Interesting.
Here's what the plug kit contained. The wires on the kit seemed to be 16 gauge, while the original wires were 20 gauge. That part isn't super reassuring since the difference in wire stiffness will put extra strain on the patch.
The good news is the crimp includes a glue that helps seal the connection. Hopefully this help keep things more secure.
After this pic, I wrapped the crap out of the line in heat tape to help secure the connection. Then I re-connected all the plugs, connected my OBD2 reader to the car, cleared the codes and started it up. All's good!
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honeybadger
Just don't care
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- #37
I am hoping it helps folks out! Considering the same thing happened to both sides of my engine at separate times, I have a feeling a few folks will experience the same (unfortunately).
luca1290
Well-Known Member
I have exactly the same issue: Help me finding this connector | 2015+ S550 Mustang Forum (GT, EcoBoost, GT350, GT500, Bullitt, Mach 1) - Mustang6G.com.
Mine came in this way from factory. Dealer was suggesting replace the whole harness but I prefer to take care of it myself (they will mess up much worse than it is).
Thank you for taking time to write up your story, it was helpful in confirming I'm not alone.
Looks like there's something wrong at Flat Rock OR Windsor if we have exactly the same problem.
Mine came in this way from factory. Dealer was suggesting replace the whole harness but I prefer to take care of it myself (they will mess up much worse than it is).
Thank you for taking time to write up your story, it was helpful in confirming I'm not alone.
Looks like there's something wrong at Flat Rock OR Windsor if we have exactly the same problem.
Navig8er
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Honey Badger, I just had my engine short block built after two spun bearings and I am getting the P0015 codes and thinking this may be what is going on with my car. We have torn apart and replaced the cam phasers and triple checked the timing and still get this code after running for a little while. Need to check the fuse #40 too but which pins are you testing on the PCM for continuity for those VCT plugs?Well, great news guys! The part came in and it looks like the right plug. Just to recap:
I located the short in the circuit with my multi-meter (ohmmeter setting, continuity test function). I stuck a sewing needle in the pin on the harness to ECU connection so I could get the multi-meter lead a connection. I then stuck the other multi-meter lead in the plug to see if the circuit would be completed. The circuit for sensor 1 on bank 2 failed, sensor 2 on bank 2 passed. Both grounds were good. After I confirmed the circuit was indeed broken, I gave the plug a bit of yank, and what do you know, it broke right off. As you can see, the wire broke vs. slipping out of the crimp. Interesting.
Here's what the plug kit contained. The wires on the kit seemed to be 16 gauge, while the original wires were 20 gauge. That part isn't super reassuring since the difference in wire stiffness will put extra strain on the patch.
The good news is the crimp includes a glue that helps seal the connection. Hopefully this help keep things more secure.
After this pic, I wrapped the crap out of the line in heat tape to help secure the connection. Then I re-connected all the plugs, connected my OBD2 reader to the car, cleared the codes and started it up. All's good!
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honeybadger
Just don't care
- Thread starter
- #41
The info you need is in this pic. Looks like bank2 exhaust is pin#6 on the PCM connector. Pic of that is below
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