brianbr
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Man, that looks good in black powder.Finally put mine in today after having it powder coated black. Works perfectly, although you will need new bolts and have to flip the bracket around.
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Stang 19
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I have a spare gates eight rib belt that I was keeping and it is now up for grabs for free if anyone is in the bay area California let me know and it is yours.
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Memz
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Hey brains trust...
Does anyone know if the below sounds like signs of bad throttle body? (OEM TB with 2300 Eforce blower)
When I am in Park/Neutral and rev the car and let off throttle pedal, the rpms stay hanging for few good seconds then slowly creep then eventually drop after like 12 seconds and voltage surges down and up then eventually settles back (assuming it’s because idle drops to like 500 meaning alternator can’t maintain voltage)
nGauge showed no OBD codes - During my driving I have 0 complaints, it doesn't drive any different than the first day since last tune revision which sorted out drivability issues.
For time being I’m ruling out alternator and battery issue as my voltage when cold is always around 11.2v and driving it’s always stuck between 13.8-14.6v. Even after voltage surges it settles back around 13.8-14.6v
My video of problem (at around 12 seconds I let off throttle pedal):
Does anyone know if the below sounds like signs of bad throttle body? (OEM TB with 2300 Eforce blower)
When I am in Park/Neutral and rev the car and let off throttle pedal, the rpms stay hanging for few good seconds then slowly creep then eventually drop after like 12 seconds and voltage surges down and up then eventually settles back (assuming it’s because idle drops to like 500 meaning alternator can’t maintain voltage)
nGauge showed no OBD codes - During my driving I have 0 complaints, it doesn't drive any different than the first day since last tune revision which sorted out drivability issues.
For time being I’m ruling out alternator and battery issue as my voltage when cold is always around 11.2v and driving it’s always stuck between 13.8-14.6v. Even after voltage surges it settles back around 13.8-14.6v
My video of problem (at around 12 seconds I let off throttle pedal):
Memz
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Reckon Burkey? I know the dash voltage reads lower than realistic. Ngauge reads like .5v higher I think, battery is only needed to crank car over and alternator takes over doesn’t it? I haven’t had any slow crank starts or anything
Any idea what rev hang in neutral could be?
Burkey
Well-Known Member
I’d check it with a multimeter for absolute clarity before making too many assumptions.
Bit yes, depending on the construction of the battery, you’d typically expect a half charged battery to present somewhere near 12.2 -12.4 volts (again, this is just from memory.
Might even pay to have a pro look at it and test it thoroughly. No load voltage is only one indicator of health.
The battery actually plays a role here, regardless of the alternator.
I‘d be getting it looked at if for no other reason than to exclude it as a possible cause. Could save you some headaches.
Memz
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Just checked with multimeter at battery, completely cold state is 12.06v and dash read 11.3v
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Burkey
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Don’t take this as gospel. The battery construction plays a role here. I’m assuming you’re still on the original battery?
If so, there’s a good chance she’s on the way out. Winter weather is just highlighting the issue for you.
Memz
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Thanks Burkey I’ll just grab a new one to rule out it being an issue. I’ve had same battery since 9k km now at 35k km.Don’t take this as gospel. The battery construction plays a role here. I’m assuming you’re still on the original battery?
If so, there’s a good chance she’s on the way out. Winter weather is just highlighting the issue for you.
Should I stay away from direct Ford replacement battery?
Burkey
Well-Known Member
I would avoid it personally. Go have a chat with a battery guy. A few extra cranking amps is rarely a bad thing.
My car was daily driven for 4 years. Started perfectly each time. Pulled up to pick the kids up from school one day, and that was the last time that battery did anything useful. Just shat itself on the spot, no warning whatsoever. The replacement (with a few extra cranking amps) sits in the shed for a month at a time and never misses a beat. No trickle charger or anything.
