Just checked with multimeter at battery, completely cold state is 12.06v and dash read 11.3v
Don’t take this as gospel. The battery construction plays a role here. I’m assuming you’re still on the original battery?
Thanks Burkey I’ll just grab a new one to rule out it being an issue. I’ve had same battery since 9k km now at 35k km.Don’t take this as gospel. The battery construction plays a role here. I’m assuming you’re still on the original battery?
If so, there’s a good chance she’s on the way out. Winter weather is just highlighting the issue for you.
I would avoid it personally. Go have a chat with a battery guy. A few extra cranking amps is rarely a bad thing.
Thought you removed your kit a few pages back. Anyway, You will need the tb adapter that's only in the airbox kit. I had to buy it. When I found out it wasn't the same.
Yes, it should operate quite freely.Thanks Burkey I’ve ordered a Century battery replacement.
Another query... Does anyone know if this swivel lever is meant to rotate/open and close freely with out any resistance or getting stuck? I know it controls a butterfly inside the blower, is the rod that runs into the blower (per my arrow) meant to have 0 side to side movement from the front of the blower/lever?
Mine is a little loose and when I rotate the lever carefully by hand (to open and close it) it has some sort of rough resistance like it gets stuck and then frees up.
I know they say not to open it by hand but I unbolted the bypass valve before moving the lever by hand so me opening the lever by rotating it didn’t actually move inside the bypass diaphragm.
I unbolted the bypass valve mount and was rotating the lever by hand and visually from the front it wasn’t rubbing on anything but internally it felt like it’s getting caught on something like the bush/bearing was seized (not that bad but I felt it rub something as I was rotating the internal lever rod) It also has some free play movement (side to side movement)
It's like a wastegate, except under vacuum it keeps the valve open, under boost, it shuts the valve. there should be no play/or roughness on the arm on it's direction of travel. I'm not sure what kind of problem you have going on with it. but the reason the nitrous jet is in there is because it's very abrupt to close when opening the throttle without the jet installed. It makes the car easier to drive with it. I would assume that it should be easy to open and close it. So I would have that looked at if you're going to have any work done to the unit.Thanks Burkey I’ve ordered a Century battery replacement.
Another query... Does anyone know if this swivel lever is meant to rotate/open and close freely with out any resistance or getting stuck? I know it controls a butterfly inside the blower, is the rod that runs into the blower (per my arrow) meant to have 0 side to side movement from the front of the blower/lever?
Mine is a little loose and when I rotate the lever carefully by hand (to open and close it) it has some sort of rough resistance like it gets stuck and then frees up.
I know they say not to open it by hand but I unbolted the bypass valve before moving the lever by hand so me opening the lever by rotating it didn’t actually move inside the bypass diaphragm.
Unfortunately it’s already on the car and tuned. I just used an old photo before it was installed for this post.
It could be, because when you give it throttle (in gear or not) you are providing more air in the case of the supercharger than the engine can supply itself alone. However without a load you should stay out of boost unless you really give a lot of pedal. In this case the valve should stay open, but if it does start to close (depending on how stuck it is) you could conceivably, cause a false (hanging) rev to happen, however I believe in this case you should get a code because of the Throttle body position being closed but the revs are up, which doesn't jive in the PCM logic.
