Edelbrock E-Force Troubleshooting Manual

[Jbaughman1989]

So here is the completed prototype aluminum surge bottle #000.

I will have a member test fit it. If he is still interested. As I have told him it's mine, so I'll sell it at cost, if it is wrong send it back with the interference markups and I'll have another made. If it fits and he likes it keep it. If it does fit this will be what is sold.

PM me if you have questions.

Hey are these still being sold and did it work . I’m having leaking issues with mine , on my 2nd cap now that has leaked .

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[brianbr]

Hey are these still being sold and did it work . I’m having leaking issues with mine , on my 2nd cap now that has leaked .

Last I heard, he had two left. I was one of the testers and have had great results.

 

[carguy231]

Hey are these still being sold and did it work . I’m having leaking issues with mine , on my 2nd cap now that has leaked .

Finally put mine in today after having it powder coated black. Works perfectly, although you will need new bolts and have to flip the bracket around.

 

[carguy231]

Had to replace the serpentine belt after about 1,400 miles. The new 82-inch long Continental belt with the same exact part number is a little different as it is not an "Elite PolyV with Quiet Channel Technology" and is just a standard 6-rib "Multi V-Belt". I was pleased to find the 4060820 at AutoZone - nobody else seems to carry it. Had to unbolt, but not disconnect, the radiator overflow bottle to get in there, and it is almost definitely a two-person job. I also enlarged the belt routing diagram and carry a copy in the glove box, just in case.

I'm going to pick up a spare belt as well.

 

[Torinate]

Did your belt snap or just felt it needed to be replaced? I purchased a green belt as a spare but haven’t felt the need to change it yet. I’m about 6000 miles right now... originally noticed dusting from the belt in the first few hundred miles but nothing since.

 

[carguy231]

Did your belt snap or just felt it needed to be replaced? I purchased a green belt as a spare but haven’t felt the need to change it yet. I’m about 6000 miles right now... originally noticed dusting from the belt in the first few hundred miles but nothing since.

See pic. Initially one rib got ripped off somehow, they noticed it at that dyno pre-check. It got a lot worse in a week or so of local driving [no racing]. There is one other small crack as well.

 

[brianbr]

Finally put mine in today after having it powder coated black. Works perfectly, although you will need new bolts and have to flip the bracket around.

Man, that looks good in black powder.

 

[brianbr]

The mosaleen idler and gates rpm have worked flawless with no dusting for 5k miles on mine.

 

[Stang 19]

The mosaleen idler and gates rpm have worked flawless with no dusting for 5k miles on mine.

I have a spare gates eight rib belt that I was keeping and it is now up for grabs for free if anyone is in the bay area California let me know and it is yours.

 

[Torinate]

I haven’t had any luck reaching the MoSaleen person...

 

[brianbr]

I haven’t had any luck reaching the MoSaleen person...

Sent you his email

 

[Memz]

Hey brains trust...
Does anyone know if the below sounds like signs of bad throttle body? (OEM TB with 2300 Eforce blower)

When I am in Park/Neutral and rev the car and let off throttle pedal, the rpms stay hanging for few good seconds then slowly creep then eventually drop after like 12 seconds and voltage surges down and up then eventually settles back (assuming it’s because idle drops to like 500 meaning alternator can’t maintain voltage)
nGauge showed no OBD codes - During my driving I have 0 complaints, it doesn't drive any different than the first day since last tune revision which sorted out drivability issues.

For time being I’m ruling out alternator and battery issue as my voltage when cold is always around 11.2v and driving it’s always stuck between 13.8-14.6v. Even after voltage surges it settles back around 13.8-14.6v

My video of problem (at around 12 seconds I let off throttle pedal):

 

[Burkey]

Hey brains trust...
Does anyone know if the below sounds like signs of bad throttle body? (OEM TB with 2300 Eforce blower)

When I am in Park/Neutral and rev the car and let off throttle pedal, the rpms stay hanging for few good seconds then slowly creep then eventually drop after like 12 seconds and voltage surges down and up then eventually settles back (assuming it’s because idle drops to like 500 meaning alternator can’t maintain voltage)
nGauge showed no OBD codes - During my driving I have 0 complaints, it doesn't drive any different than the first day since last tune revision which sorted out drivability issues.

For time being I’m ruling out alternator and battery issue as my voltage when cold is always around 11.2v and driving it’s always stuck between 13.8-14.6v. Even after voltage surges it settles back around 13.8-14.6v

My video of problem (at around 12 seconds I let off throttle pedal):

11.2v with no load? If my memory serves me correctly, that battery is almost flat/rooted.

 

[Memz]

11.2v with no load? If my memory serves me correctly, that battery is almost flat/rooted.

Reckon Burkey? I know the dash voltage reads lower than realistic. Ngauge reads like .5v higher I think, battery is only needed to crank car over and alternator takes over doesn’t it? I haven’t had any slow crank starts or anything
Any idea what rev hang in neutral could be?

 

[Burkey]

Reckon Burkey? I know the dash voltage reads lower than realistic. Ngauge reads like .5v higher I think, battery is only needed to crank car over and alternator takes over doesn’t it? I haven’t had any slow crank starts or anything
Any idea what rev hang in neutral could be?

I’d check it with a multimeter for absolute clarity before making too many assumptions.
Bit yes, depending on the construction of the battery, you’d typically expect a half charged battery to present somewhere near 12.2 -12.4 volts (again, this is just from memory.

Might even pay to have a pro look at it and test it thoroughly. No load voltage is only one indicator of health.
The battery actually plays a role here, regardless of the alternator.

I‘d be getting it looked at if for no other reason than to exclude it as a possible cause. Could save you some headaches.

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