Edelbrock E-Force Troubleshooting Manual

[Burkey]

When a bypass valve doesn’t open or close when it’s supposed to you can lose boost. If it’s not closing all the way at WOT for example you can lose boost which is common. By controlling the vacuum, it frees up boost that would’ve been there if the bypass valve had been working properly from the beginning. The valve still is opening and closing in a delayed manner on start up but it seems to be functioning better overall now. But this isn’t something I just did. My shop did it and revised the tune based on the airflow change.

My point is that slowing the rate of opening/closing won‘t alter the actual open/close maximum points.
I‘m going to suggest that they may have played with the cam timing which will most certainly produce more or less boost if you so desire.
Vacuum should be very low at WOT, ergo the spring holds the valve closed, vacuum pulls it open.

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[illtal]

My point is that slowing the rate of opening/closing won‘t alter the actual open/close maximum points.
I‘m going to suggest that they may have played with the cam timing which will most certainly produce more or less boost if you so desire.
Vacuum should be very low at WOT, ergo the spring holds the valve closed, vacuum pulls it open.

The cam phasing can give more or less cylinder pressure as well via controlling the valve overlap.
I find it strange that he's having a slow bypass problem when most people have a fast bypass problem.

It shouldn't matter if the shop is going to be that hands on. I'm a tinkerer so I like to know what goes on with the ride because I don't have a trustworthy shop near me.

The Lund tune was done in 4 revisions. It runs about 95% of perfect, with the other being going from WOT to something less than WOT but still deep in the throttle there is a hiccup. It likely has something to do with the ignition advance, seeing as I run meth, it's probable this is the issue.

 

[Stang 19]

FWIW: when Edelbrock installed the stage two kit on my 19 Mustang GT I had the same start up and die problem or it felt like it was about to die half the time upon start up. Then one day I went to do a warm restart and I got the wrench on the dashboard come on and it went into limp mode. Edelbrock sent me a brand new throttlebody and said that I needed to reflash the stock tune. After that no more problems no more start up problems no more idle problems.

 

[Torinate]

Ok.

So this is the nitrous pill in the line that goes from the passenger side of the unit to the bypass valve itself.

Mind you, mine is a 16 and I don’t know if the 18+ are different. When the kit comes, there’s already a pill in it. It comes with a 15 jet. I’ve played with mine several times and tried 20 25 32 35 jets and no jet. The best compromise I have come up with is 32. No jet was very jerky for sure. On / off and just not smooth. I found the 32 to restrict and get rid of the jerkiness but still off immediate type boost. No question the 15 was the smoothest and tamest. The 32 in my application offered a happy medium in the smooth to rowdy meter.

I’m not running the 103 TB though (I’m pre modular inlet) but I am running the 90mm Ford Racing TB which came with the prior stage 2s. No hiccups as you describe or starting woes. A little jerky when going from lots of boost to closed throttle. Maybe not jerky but more abrupt than the 15, which was silky smooth.

In all this, regardless of which pill was in the line, I didn’t see any change to boost.

I found the easiest way to change the pills was to just buy more vacuum line and switch out the whole piece rather than fight with the pill itself that’s a tight fit in the line. I just labeled the line with whatever jet was in it. 2 clamps and the switch was done.

Interesting about the comments about more boost needing a different tune.

I’m tuned by Lund and they expressly told me that if I wanted to change boost a few pounds up or down that the tune would be completely fine and no changes would be required. Again, I’m a 16 and only have one set of injectors so I can’t say for 18+ If that makes a difference.

My car has been completely great! My kids and wife have driven the car and it runs smoother that it did stock. The exact way it sits for “daily driving” Is the exact way I run it when I go to the track on rentals. Tech won’t pass the rag top on test and tune nights due to knowing how fast I run and the regulations. Rentals they turn a blind eye...

 

[illtal]

Ok.

So this is the nitrous pill in the line that goes from the passenger side of the unit to the bypass valve itself.

Mind you, mine is a 16 and I don’t know if the 18+ are different. When the kit comes, there’s already a pill in it. It comes with a 15 jet. I’ve played with mine several times and tried 20 25 32 35 jets and no jet. The best compromise I have come up with is 32. No jet was very jerky for sure. On / off and just not smooth. I found the 32 to restrict and get rid of the jerkiness but still off immediate type boost. No question the 15 was the smoothest and tamest. The 32 in my application offered a happy medium in the smooth to rowdy meter.

I’m not running the 103 TB though (I’m pre modular inlet) but I am running the 90mm Ford Racing TB which came with the prior stage 2s. No hiccups as you describe or starting woes. A little jerky when going from lots of boost to closed throttle. Maybe not jerky but more abrupt than the 15, which was silky smooth.

In all this, regardless of which pill was in the line, I didn’t see any change to boost.

I found the easiest way to change the pills was to just buy more vacuum line and switch out the whole piece rather than fight with the pill itself that’s a tight fit in the line. I just labeled the line with whatever jet was in it. 2 clamps and the switch was done.

Interesting about the comments about more boost needing a different tune.

I’m tuned by Lund and they expressly told me that if I wanted to change boost a few pounds up or down that the tune would be completely fine and no changes would be required. Again, I’m a 16 and only have one set of injectors so I can’t say for 18+ If that makes a difference.

My car has been completely great! My kids and wife have driven the car and it runs smoother that it did stock. The exact way it sits for “daily driving” Is the exact way I run it when I go to the track on rentals. Tech won’t pass the rag top on test and tune nights due to knowing how fast I run and the regulations. Rentals they turn a blind eye...

I'm running an 18. Basically no more boost on 93 pump. With a 3.25". There is headroom with a 3.15" there is none which is what I'm running now.
I might tinker with the pills because on normal mode it takes about 70% throttle to get into boost. In track/drag mode it's about 45%. The transition is very smooth as you have stated. I do miss the animal getting loose off idle though. Does make it silly to drive.

 

[Torinate]

Yes it does. When I took the pill out it was literally an on off switch depending on pedal position. With the pill in it’s more gradual and easier to control. Takes more of a deliberate stab on the pedal to nail the boost. Makes for a more pleasant street car (although I miss the rowdy nature at times) and easier for the uninitiated to manage. The stock pill is just too smooth for me. Zero jerkiness and transition from vacuum to boost is very predictable. But with the 32 it does seem to hit harder but has some jerk to it in transition. Happy medium lol.

 

[Desert Dog]

Does changing the Jet size help with Dead Pedal issues. I'm still running the Edelbrock tune on my 18 Stage 2 and it feels like less then stock until 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. There is also a big delay, if I go WOT quickly, not linear at all.

 

[Torinate]

Does changing the Jet size help with Dead Pedal issues. I'm still running the Edelbrock tune on my 18 Stage 2 and it feels like less then stock until 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. There is also a big delay, if I go WOT quickly, not linear at all.

Try taking the pill right out. This is the most drastic Change. No tune change required. It’s worth a try! No cost to you, 5 minutes of your time. It’s easiest to just replace the the hose itself rather than trying to fish out the pill inside the hose currently.

 

[Semp1]

Does changing the Jet size help with Dead Pedal issues. I'm still running the Edelbrock tune on my 18 Stage 2 and it feels like less then stock until 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. There is also a big delay, if I go WOT quickly, not linear at all.

Edelbrock along with other “stock” supercharger tunes from the companies tend to be conservative in low rpm to not engage traction control so easily. Because when that occurs power is cut causing the TB to close to protect itself. When you do custom tunes this power band is usually more consistent especially in lower rpm. Most of the time requiring at least the first step of traction control being turned off and to the extreme of having advanced Trac off. That I assume is why your car feels underpowered in low rpm. Get a custom tune from a good Tuner. That will fix the issue.

 

[Burkey]

Edelbrock along with other “stock” supercharger tunes from the companies tend to be conservative in low rpm to not engage traction control so easily. Because when that occurs power is cut causing the TB to close to protect itself. When you do custom tunes this power band is usually more consistent especially in lower rpm. Most of the time requiring at least the first step of traction control being turned off and to the extreme of having advanced Trac off. That I assume is why your car feels underpowered in low rpm. Get a custom tune from a good Tuner. That will fix the issue.

You might be onto something.
My car is Lund tuned, 103mm TB, no restrictor and the TC is physically disconnected. Drives as smooth as you could possibly expect.

I also have another tune from another company but the smoothness just isn’t the same.

 

[Semp1]

You might be onto something.
My car is Lund tuned, 103mm TB, no restrictor and the TC is physically disconnected. Drives as smooth as you could possibly expect.

I also have another tune from another company but the smoothness just isn’t the same.

That’s how the “stock” tunes are. They are made to prevent TC from kicking in because when TC kicks in it kills power by closing the TB. Roush for example does this so the car is more drivable with TC on. And so does every other company. This is why when you have custom tunes they are super aggressive causing wheel excess spin really requiring TC to be off to prevent this from occurring. Get a new tune from a reputable shop. Trust me the poor power you’re feeling in the lower power band won’t be there anymore.

 

[brianbr]

Does anyone know if its possible to swap out injectors with the Edelbrock blower on the engine?

 

[illtal]

Does anyone know if its possible to swap out injectors with the Edelbrock blower on the engine?

Yes it's possible; yes it does suck and the crossover line is the worst fucking thing. I would advise you to lose the clips if you can ....

 

[Torinate]

The injectors were literally the worst part about the whole install!

Patience... if there’s small children around you may want to send them away for a little while or they will learn lots of new words!

 

[brianbr]

Thanks fellas, that's what I was hoping to hear.

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