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Edelbrock E-Force Troubleshooting Manual

Desert Dog

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Does changing the Jet size help with Dead Pedal issues. I'm still running the Edelbrock tune on my 18 Stage 2 and it feels like less then stock until 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. There is also a big delay, if I go WOT quickly, not linear at all.
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Does changing the Jet size help with Dead Pedal issues. I'm still running the Edelbrock tune on my 18 Stage 2 and it feels like less then stock until 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. There is also a big delay, if I go WOT quickly, not linear at all.
Try taking the pill right out. This is the most drastic Change. No tune change required. It’s worth a try! No cost to you, 5 minutes of your time. It’s easiest to just replace the the hose itself rather than trying to fish out the pill inside the hose currently.
 

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Does changing the Jet size help with Dead Pedal issues. I'm still running the Edelbrock tune on my 18 Stage 2 and it feels like less then stock until 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. There is also a big delay, if I go WOT quickly, not linear at all.
Edelbrock along with other “stock” supercharger tunes from the companies tend to be conservative in low rpm to not engage traction control so easily. Because when that occurs power is cut causing the TB to close to protect itself. When you do custom tunes this power band is usually more consistent especially in lower rpm. Most of the time requiring at least the first step of traction control being turned off and to the extreme of having advanced Trac off. That I assume is why your car feels underpowered in low rpm. Get a custom tune from a good Tuner. That will fix the issue.
 

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Edelbrock along with other “stock” supercharger tunes from the companies tend to be conservative in low rpm to not engage traction control so easily. Because when that occurs power is cut causing the TB to close to protect itself. When you do custom tunes this power band is usually more consistent especially in lower rpm. Most of the time requiring at least the first step of traction control being turned off and to the extreme of having advanced Trac off. That I assume is why your car feels underpowered in low rpm. Get a custom tune from a good Tuner. That will fix the issue.
You might be onto something.
My car is Lund tuned, 103mm TB, no restrictor and the TC is physically disconnected. Drives as smooth as you could possibly expect.

I also have another tune from another company but the smoothness just isn’t the same.
 

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You might be onto something.
My car is Lund tuned, 103mm TB, no restrictor and the TC is physically disconnected. Drives as smooth as you could possibly expect.

I also have another tune from another company but the smoothness just isn’t the same.
That’s how the “stock” tunes are. They are made to prevent TC from kicking in because when TC kicks in it kills power by closing the TB. Roush for example does this so the car is more drivable with TC on. And so does every other company. This is why when you have custom tunes they are super aggressive causing wheel excess spin really requiring TC to be off to prevent this from occurring. Get a new tune from a reputable shop. Trust me the poor power you’re feeling in the lower power band won’t be there anymore.
 

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Does anyone know if its possible to swap out injectors with the Edelbrock blower on the engine?
 

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The injectors were literally the worst part about the whole install!

Patience... if there’s small children around you may want to send them away for a little while or they will learn lots of new words!
 

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Thanks fellas, that's what I was hoping to hear.
 

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anyone had issues with heatsoak on warm starts? im on stage 2 2300 - injectors not getting a signal from pcm to fire after bringing the car to operating temperature and switching the car off for more than 10 minutes- will drive well no issues, no misfires or codes but if you pull over for more than 10 minutes and try restart it will crank but not turnover for at least 3 hours or after 5 minutes if you pop the hood and spray with cold water - car has been reverted to stock as much as possible (tune,injectors, throttlebody and airbox and bypass harness and a new PCM by FORD installed and the issue "went away" ) putting all the goodies back on and the issue returned? i already have a brass IAT installed I'm dumbfounded EB recommending trying a new IAT and an IET sensor harness to see if that maybe the cause
 

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Burkey

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anyone had issues with heatsoak on warm starts? im on stage 2 2300 - injectors not getting a signal from pcm to fire after bringing the car to operating temperature and switching the car off for more than 10 minutes- will drive well no issues, no misfires or codes but if you pull over for more than 10 minutes and try restart it will crank but not turnover for at least 3 hours or after 5 minutes if you pop the hood and spray with cold water - car has been reverted to stock as much as possible (tune,injectors, throttlebody and airbox and bypass harness and a new PCM by FORD installed and the issue "went away" ) putting all the goodies back on and the issue returned? i already have a brass IAT installed I'm dumbfounded EB recommending trying a new IAT and an IET sensor harness to see if that maybe the cause
I’m a bit confused. What do you mean by “it will crank but not turn over”? They’re the same thing.

How do you know that the injectors aren’t pulsing?

When the car does eventually start, does it smell of fuel? Eg. Running rich for a moment?

You say you reverted to the stock tune. Not sure if you mean the stock Edelbrock calibration or the actual Ford cal.

Does the IAT seem to vaguely match what it should when the car is stone cold? Eg. Does ambient and IAT closely align?
 

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I’m a bit confused. What do you mean by “it will crank but not turn over”? They’re the same thing.

How do you know that the injectors aren’t pulsing?

When the car does eventually start, does it smell of fuel? Eg. Running rich for a moment?

You say you reverted to the stock tune. Not sure if you mean the stock Edelbrock calibration or the actual Ford cal.

Does the IAT seem to vaguely match what it should when the car is stone cold? Eg. Does ambient and IAT closely align?

sorry for the confusion

what i meant is it will crank just not start

you can hear the fuel pump priming etc however it will not start - no it doesn't smell like fuel when it eventually starts (usually about 2 hours or 10 minutes after a spray of water in engine bay)

went back to ford with stock ford calibration and there was no error codes

ill give the IAT a test today - i have a Ngauge and a digital dash so i may see if i can pull these figures out form there
 

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sorry for the confusion

what i meant is it will crank just not start

you can hear the fuel pump priming etc however it will not start - no it doesn't smell like fuel when it eventually starts (usually about 2 hours or 10 minutes after a spray of water in engine bay)

went back to ford with stock ford calibration and there was no error codes

ill give the IAT a test today - i have a Ngauge and a digital dash so i may see if i can pull these figures out form there
How many start attempts are you giving it before quitting? Like 2 - 3 or more than that?
 

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How many start attempts are you giving it before quitting? Like 2 - 3 or more than that?
yeh 2 or 3 and I've had the crank time exceeded message before so just gave up after that

funny thing is a i took it out the other day for a fang - it was driving really well then intermittedly start losing power and stalled, the revs dropped and stalled out on me - then again it would crank but wouldnt start
 

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yeh 2 or 3 and I've had the crank time exceeded message before so just gave up after that

funny thing is a i took it out the other day for a fang - it was driving really well then intermittedly start losing power and stalled, the revs dropped and stalled out on me - then again it would crank but wouldnt start
There’s no chance that your air cleaner has come adrift?
On these enclosed boxes it happens sometimes.
The MAF can’t deal with the tumbling/random airflow.
This wouldn’t usually explain the lack of restart but it might explain the rough running/stalling.
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