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illtal

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I have an Edelbrock 2650TVS on my 18 and I have an issue with a very weak start rarely stalling at startup and requiring to hit the ignition button a second time. I use the bigger 103mm tb and air box from Edelbrock off the stage 2 on my stage 1. I am using LU47’s as an upgrade to the stock 27lb injectors that the stage 1 has no issue working with. I am sticking to pump 93. From what I understand my edelbrock bypass valve on the blower might be opening and closing slightly delayed causing this issue. But I was also wondering if the cars not getting enough fuel on start up from the LU47’s. They are absolutely enough injector for the car at the power level I'm at. That my tuner has told me they are sure of. The tune has over 50 hours of time put into it and the shop is one of the best in the area I’m wondering if anyone has had this issue because at this point it has to be mechanical. TB maybe? Bypass valve (dump valve)? Or injector? Wondering Opinions? Maybe all 3. Btw car drives amazing otherwise. extremely fast. IAT’s are great, and you wouldn’t know the car is 700+ wheel on 93 when cruising
Is this on hot starts? if so it's likely the fuel is too hot in the rails. I used to rarely get this but only when its extremely hot and there is no cool down period like when pumping gas. Since I went with spacers this has not happened anymore
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Semp1

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Is this on hot starts? if so it's likely the fuel is too hot in the rails. I used to rarely get this but only when its extremely hot and there is no cool down period like when pumping gas. Since I went with spacers this has not happened anymore
It’s usually on cold starts. I have not had the issue on hot starts. Once the car is hot the start is strong and normal. Once the car starts there’s zero issues at all. But it’s always a weak cold start sometimes dipping below 500rpm and rarely not strengthening and it just stops, requiring me to hit the push start again. Even more rare maybe 2 times. We’ve looked at the blowers bypass valve and it definitely opens delayed. Which does cause this Issue. Then there’s always the TB. Edelbrock has had TB issues in the past and that 103mm size is wacky.
 

illtal

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It’s usually on cold starts. I have not had the issue on hot starts. Once the car is hot the start is strong and normal. Once the car starts there’s zero issues at all. But it’s always a weak cold start sometimes dipping below 500rpm and rarely not strengthening and it just stops, requiring me to hit the push start again. Even more rare maybe 2 times. We’ve looked at the blowers bypass valve and it definitely opens delayed. Which does cause this Issue. Then there’s always the TB. Edelbrock has had TB issues in the past and that 103mm size is wacky.
Sounds like the bypass is not receiving enough vacuum at times to open it. Could be the cam Phasing but that's a shot in the dark. You would think with 12 compression that wouldn't happen.
Also when your out of boost the DI does like 90% of the fueling, this is why the stock injectors are so tiny. If you're going to stay on 93 I don't see a reason for 1000cc injectors even though I have them. I had plans to run E-85 but ended up moving away from the pumps.
 

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Sounds like the bypass is not receiving enough vacuum at times to open it. Could be the cam Phasing but that's a shot in the dark. You would think with 12 compression that wouldn't happen.
Also when your out of boost the DI does like 90% of the fueling, this is why the stock injectors are so tiny. If you're going to stay on 93 I don't see a reason for 1000cc injectors even though I have them. I had plans to run E-85 but ended up moving away from the pumps.
Yeah. We shall see. It’s going into the shop for a few weeks I’m sure and they will run through a bunch of tests. Obviously replacing the bypass valve should be a major thing to look into. The shop I go to is really the best and well known. Also are engine builders so it’s in very good hands. I’m confident we will eventually figure it out. It’s been nothing but issues with this blower though. Edelbrock sent me the wrong fuel rails instead of for this car for a 2010 camaro. The pulley was misaligned by 1/100ths of an inch causing a terrible tensioner like chirp and needed to be fixed by my shop. And then this. Makes me wonder if maybe I should’ve just gotten a whipple and been like everyone else. It’s becoming quite annoying and seems like a legit QC issue with Edelbrock. Hoping everything works out but I’m beyond annoyed at this point.
 
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illtal

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Yeah. We shall see. It’s going into the shop for a few weeks I’m sure and they will run through a bunch of tests. Obviously replacing the bypass valve should be a major thing to look into. The shop I go to is really the best and well known. Also are engine builders so it’s in very good hands. I’m confident we will eventually figure it out. It’s been nothing but issues with this blower though. Edelbrock sent me the wrong fuel rails instead of for this car for a 2010 camaro. The pulley was misaligned by 1/100ths of an inch causing a terrible tensioner like chirp and needed to be fixed by my shop. And then this. Makes me wonder if maybe I should’ve just gotten a whipple and been like everyone else. It’s becoming quite annoying and seems like a legit QC issue with Edelbrock. Hoping everything works out but I’m beyond annoyed at this point.
On the S650 I will likely go turbo especially of top mount kits make more sense in the engine bay.i haven't had a whole lot of problems with my 2650 other than the stupid rails that could have been designed a whole lot better.
 

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brianbr

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Didn't want the MAF wash with the grille. but I have them Upper and lower. are you still running the shutter?
Mine is a PP so no shutter.
Didn't want the MAF wash with the grille. but I have them Upper and lower. are you still running the shutter?
Mine is a PP so no grille shutter.
 

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Is this on hot starts? if so it's likely the fuel is too hot in the rails. I used to rarely get this but only when its extremely hot and there is no cool down period like when pumping gas. Since I went with spacers this has not happened anymore
That’s exactly what we’ve found on a number of cars now.
 

Burkey

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@Burkey how are your commuting IATs looking with the MFP spacers.
Excellent.
Being an Aussie delivered car my display is in celsius rather than fahrenhei though, so I won’t bother posting numbers cos it’ll just be hard work for all involved.
As you said, it takes quite some time for any increase to happen.
I had much larger jumps in IAT when the car was NA and running a PMAS intake.
 

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I have an Edelbrock 2650TVS on my 18 and I have an issue with a very weak start rarely stalling at startup and requiring to hit the ignition button a second time. I use the bigger 103mm tb and air box from Edelbrock off the stage 2 on my stage 1. I am using LU47’s as an upgrade to the stock 27lb injectors that the stage 1 has no issue working with. I am sticking to pump 93. From what I understand my edelbrock bypass valve on the blower might be opening and closing slightly delayed causing this issue. But I was also wondering if the cars not getting enough fuel on start up from the LU47’s. I will be checking if a revision to the tune and 1050’s fix the issue. But the LU47’s are absolutely enough injector for the car at the power level I'm at when at any speed or rpm. That my tuner has told me they are sure of. The tune has over 50 hours and months of time put into it and the shop is one of the best in the area I’m wondering if anyone has had this issue because at this point it has to be mechanical. And I’m thinking there is going to be at least 1 part that needs a warranty replacement. TB maybe? Bypass valve (dump valve)? Or injector? Wondering Opinions? Maybe all 3. Btw car drives amazing otherwise. extremely fast. IAT’s are great, and you wouldn’t know the car is 700+ wheel on 93 when cruising
Yes, same problem with my Stage 2 . Spent a lot of time with Tony A on EB tech support reflashing and datalogging with no joy. Replaced the EB throttlebody and the MAF. Still no joy. I put my foot on the pedal when I start it. At least I don't have to pump the pedal like the four-barrel 351 Cleveland on my 70 Torino on every startup... LOL Good luck.
 

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Semp1

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Yes, same problem with my Stage 2 . Spent a lot of time with Tony A on EB tech support reflashing and datalogging with no joy. Replaced the EB throttlebody and the MAF. Still no joy. I put my foot on the pedal when I start it. At least I don't have to pump the pedal like the four-barrel 351 Cleveland on my 70 Torino on every startup... LOL Good luck.
My issue occurs every maybe 15-30 cold starts. Otherwise it’s a weak start that shoots right back up. only occurs with cold starts. From what it seems is this is a bypass valve issue More than a TB issue. But lets see. I am in the process of having the bypass valve replaced. Lastly Edelbrock knows there’s an issue with the TB. Being the size. It’s very hard to tune for. 103mm is wacky. They are making a 108mm from what I’ve heard which should be much easier to tune for andwill probably fix many issues. you have a 17 and it’s a little different. That kit is known to have TB issues. Mine is an 18 and supposedly those issues with the TB are fixed. Who knows.
 
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Burkey

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My issue occurs every maybe 15-30 cold starts. Otherwise it’s a weakwe start that shoots right back up. only occurs with cold starts. From what it seems is this is a bypass valve issue. I am in the process of having the bypass valve replaced. Lastly Edelbrock knows there’s an issue with the TB. Being the size. It’s very hard to tune for. 103mm is wacky. They are making a 108mm from what I’ve heard which should be much easier to tune for And will probably fix the issue.
Ok, I’ve got to ask why a 108 would be easier to tune than a 103….?
Lund have plenty of cars on the 103 without issue.
 

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I have an 18 with the Stage 2 Edelbrock Setup on 91. Mine does the same thing occasionally. It starts right up then dies. On the restart it will stay running. It will also die if I leave it Idling for 10 minutes or more once in awhile. It starts idling like a Top Fuel car hunting for a RPM, t town dies. Edelbrock gave me a spec. to check The throttle angle with key on and mine was out of calibration. There’s a procedure where you return the tune to stock and temporarily hook up the stock TB.

That worked for me for the last six months, but now it seems to be doing it again. I’m out of warranty by a few months, so if the reset doesn’t work this time and the TB is toast, not sure what Edelbrock will cover. I reached out to Edelbrock Calibration Department several times over the last Two years hoping they would have some improved Tune updates, but the Answer is, none at this time and don’t hold your breath. Other supercharge Companies seem to offer updates to improve drivability. Edelbrock acts like theirs is Perfect, It Sucks.
 

Semp1

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I have an 18 with the Stage 2 Edelbrock Setup on 91. Mine does the same thing occasionally. It starts right up then dies. On the restart it will stay running. It will also die if I leave it Idling for 10 minutes or more once in awhile. It starts idling like a Top Fuel car hunting for a RPM, t town dies. Edelbrock gave me a spec. to check The throttle angle with key on and mine was out of calibration. There’s a procedure where you return the tune to stock and temporarily hook up the stock TB.

That worked for me for the last six months, but now it seems to be doing it again. I’m out of warranty by a few months, so if the reset doesn’t work this time and the TB is toast, not sure what Edelbrock will cover. I reached out to Edelbrock Calibration Department several times over the last Two years hoping they would have some improved Tune updates, but the Answer is, none at this time and don’t hold your breath. Other supercharge Companies seem to offer updates to improve drivability. Edelbrock acts like theirs is Perfect, It Sucks.
I don’t use an Edelbrock tune. Their tunes are known to be terrible. Im on a custom tune and have over 50 hours of revisions in it. I also don’t think The issue is tune related imho. It’s more mechanical. The fact that we have similar issues and different tunes proves that part I believe. And if you watch the bypass valve on start up it’s a delayed response. It does not open and close when it should and causes the stall. This issue combined with the awkward TB size I believe is what is creating the issue. It’s absolutely a vacuum issue. My shop installed an air restrictor in the bypass valve to control vacuum better and it did help a little along with freeing up about 2lbs of boost but still needs a little more. If I was to say how “perfect” my tune is it’s probably in the 90% but there’s still that issue here and there that drives me nuts. And my car definitely never stalls when left alone. Make sure the feature to automatically shut the car off after a certain amount of time isn’t on, on the actual mustang. And yes it’s crazy that Edelbrock hasn’t updated something to improve this. They are definitely aware of the issue. My car is going back to dial in the tune a little bit more from my shop. If any place can do it I know they can.
 
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Semp1

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Ok, I’ve got to ask why a 108 would be easier to tune than a 103….?
Lund have plenty of cars on the 103 without issue.
I believe when actually measured ithe inner diameter of the intake tube is closer to 107 or some weird number. It’s not actually 103mm. It’s slightly larger and is awkward in regards to tuning for that particular size.
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