Edelbrock E-Force Troubleshooting Manual

[carguy231]

the Bypass valve is opening and closing delayed. It’s functioning better because of an added air restrictor. It did not have this prior to them installing one. I am in the process of getting the bypass valve replaced by edelbrock because it is to be assumed based on the visual and actual evidence that this is the reason this blower has this issue. There’s also the still a chance it TB connected and a slight chance that this is unfortunately as good as it‘s gonna get in regards to their design and my shop is just going to have to keep tinkering away and eventually will perfect it.

Would you please share a pic showing the location of the this restrictor?

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[carguy231]

There’s no chance that your air cleaner has come adrift?
On these enclosed boxes it happens sometimes.
The MAF can’t deal with the tumbling/random airflow.
This wouldn’t usually explain the lack of restart but it might explain the rough running/stalling.

Yeah, I think when my air filter fell off inside the AirRaid box was the beginning of the 'hard start' issue. I check it regularly now.

 

[illtal]

question for the guys, is it possible to get a 10 rib setup for the EB?
What's the Maximum allowable speed/boost level for this 2650?
In case I build an Engine I'll need to know that. Yes I know about the 8 rib setup but it is stupid expensive. Looking for alternatives.

 

[HA8N3RO]

anyone had issues with heatsoak on warm starts? im on stage 2 2300 - injectors not getting a signal from pcm to fire after bringing the car to operating temperature and switching the car off for more than 10 minutes- will drive well no issues, no misfires or codes but if you pull over for more than 10 minutes and try restart it will crank but not turnover for at least 3 hours or after 5 minutes if you pop the hood and spray with cold water - car has been reverted to stock as much as possible (tune,injectors, throttlebody and airbox and bypass harness and a new PCM by FORD installed and the issue "went away" ) putting all the goodies back on and the issue returned? i already have a brass IAT installed I'm dumbfounded EB recommending trying a new IAT and an IET sensor harness to see if that maybe the cause

IDK about heatsoak causing this, but have you checked to see if you have a corroded battery terminal?

 

[Burkey]

question for the guys, is it possible to get a 10 rib setup for the EB?
What's the Maximum allowable speed/boost level for this 2650?
In case I build an Engine I'll need to know that. Yes I know about the 8 rib setup but it is stupid expensive. Looking for alternatives.

Pretty sure the Edelbrock stage 2 setup pushes 14psi into the Gen 3 engines. Personally, I think that’s a bit too aggressive. The knock sensors would be hating it.

 

[illtal]

Pretty sure the Edelbrock stage 2 setup pushes 14psi into the Gen 3 engines. Personally, I think that’s a bit too aggressive. The knock sensors would be hating it.

Pretty sure that amount of boost is fine with E-85 seeing how Lund told me 15psi is ok with GT260. I can't reach that kind of boost on a 6 rib any way. I was wondering what would I do if I get a built engine. I am leaning toward turbo but who knows I love the way this 2650 is nearly instant in response. I would be also moving down to 10 or 10.5 compression. So I'll be running a minimum of 14 on 93 likely. I'll still run wmi as well.

 

[Burkey]

Pretty sure that amount of boost is fine with E-85 seeing how Lund told me 15psi is ok with GT260. I can't reach that kind of boost on a 6 rib any way. I was wondering what would I do if I get a built engine. I am leaning toward turbo but who knows I love the way this 2650 is nearly instant in response. I would be also moving down to 10 or 10.5 compression. So I'll be running a minimum of 14 on 93 likely. I'll still run wmi as well.

Sorry, I was talking about 93 octane.

 

[illtal]

Sorry, I was talking about 93 octane.

It's cool bruddah, I wouldnt go 13 lbs on 93 only lol. Boom boom time. I want to get more go go but I need that 8 rib which I'm dreading because it's 2k dollars now.

 

[illtal]

So do you know the upper boost level of this 2650?

 

[Semp1]

It's cool bruddah, I wouldnt go 13 lbs on 93 only lol. Boom boom time. I want to get more go go but I need that 8 rib which I'm dreading because it's 2k dollars now.

Timing is everything. Timing can make things “safe“ or “unsafe.”

 

[illtal]

Timing is everything. Timing can make things “safe“ or “unsafe.”

@Semp1
I disagree, ignition timing while being a contributor to heat and thus detonation in the way that people typically think of it in terms of ignition advance. But there is a point when too much boost is too much for the octane that is available. Retarding timing is a band-aid, it will marginally reduce the effects of limited octane, but when timing is too aggressively retarded we run back into the heating problem and thus more knock. I've tuned a lot of Hondas back in the day and a
Have seen this a lot. Octane is king. A close second is cylinder cooling. This is why WMI is the way to go when we have nothing but 91/92/93 octane.

In accordance with some of what we are speaking on using the variable cam timing for cylinder fill can also be used to overcome poor octane levels. It's probably a lot more complicated to do that in this manner though.
Edit: this is probably not that effective too because we are heating the intake charge with more boost.

For is 3rd gen guys, DI help a ton with limited octane levels as well. It's incredible to me that we can run these kinds of boost levels on GASOLINE.

Speaking on fueling, I had been developing something for fueling/inactive saddle bag crossover stuff. Mostly for my own entertainment, but there are tons of awesome solutions if people are willing to experiment.

I can see why companies dont want to put a lot of effort into these kinds of things though.

 

[Semp1]

@Semp1
I disagree, ignition timing while being a contributor to heat and thus detonation in the way that people typically think of it in terms of ignition advance. But there is a point when too much boost is too much for the octane that is available. Retarding timing is a band-aid, it will marginally reduce the effects of limited octane, but when timing is too aggressively retarded we run back into the heating problem and thus more knock. I've tuned a lot of Hondas back in the day and a
Have seen this a lot. Octane is king. A close second is cylinder cooling. This is why WMI is the way to go when we have nothing but 91/92/93 octane.

In accordance with some of what we are speaking on using the variable cam timing for cylinder fill can also be used to overcome poor octane levels. It's probably a lot more complicated to do that in this manner though.
Edit: this is probably not that effective too because we are heating the intake charge with more boost.

For is 3rd gen guys, DI help a ton with limited octane levels as well. It's incredible to me that we can run these kinds of boost levels on GASOLINE.

Speaking on fueling, I had been developing something for fueling/inactive saddle bag crossover stuff. Mostly for my own entertainment, but there are tons of awesome solutions if people are willing to experiment.

I can see why companies dont want to put a lot of effort into these kinds of things though.

When I say timing obviously I’m not saying go to 17psi. But a good example is whipple‘s stock tune is very close to 13-14psi on 93 for gen 3’s. Which is why it’s not always apples to apples. Timing creates spark knock. Tuning less timing means you can get away with more boost. Especially with a larger pulley

 

[illtal]

When I say timing obviously I’m not saying go to 17psi. But a good example is whipple‘s stock tune for example give it conservative timing and I believe is very close to 13-14psi on 93 for gen 3’s. Which is why it’s not always apples to apples.

I got you: I have hear some stuff about the way it works but I never sought out how the tune works for myself.
How cool does the 5th gen run in comparison to the TVS kits? Those tunes have got to be really good. These EB tunes have cause a member or two a few engines. I for one never liked the EB tune. I've heard of 12 PSI TVS breaking gen 3 engines. I believe the Stage 2 EB is 13 PSI as well.
I'm a firm believer in a cooler charge is better for power than more boost to a certain extent.

 

[Semp1]

I got you: I have hear some stuff about the way it works but I never sought out how the tune works for myself.
How cool does the 5th gen run in comparison to the TVS kits? Those tunes have got to be really good. These EB tunes have cause a member or two a few engines. I for one never liked the EB tune. I've heard of 12 PSI TVS breaking gen 3 engines. I believe the Stage 2 EB is 13 PSI as well.
I'm a firm believer in a cooler charge is better for power than more boost to a certain extent.

I don’t really know why anyone is using EB tunes. I went to an extremely well known shop had them tune the car. I had an issue with the TB and bypass valve which is mechanical. I had EB replace both thats currently being taken care of. But I have heard the EB tunes in general are terrible.

 

[illtal]

just read that the whipple stage 2 is only 1 PSI more than stage 1 which is similar to the EB stage two. stage one should be 10-11 lbs and stage 2 11-12 lbs still haven't heard about too many failures there. I have lund tune. I love it, would recommend to any one, 4 revisions and dialed in.

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