Differential Fluid change.

[traxiii]

I ended up having to do a partial rear diff. oil change when the cooler on my Mach1 got hit by a large brass valve that dropped off a truck from the guys repaving our streets. I didn't hear it happen, but it hit hard enough (even under 25mph) to bend and split a seam. This caused a small leak each time the oil pump turned on, and a smaller seeping leak all the time. I only noticed because of the slight gear oil smell and a couple drops in the street. (check out my Eowyn M1 thread for pics, etc.)

I plugged the leak as best I could with JB Weld and unplugged the pump, which slowed the leak down to almost nothing, but I had no idea how much fluid I had lost. I drained the diff. into a graduated plastic beaker and replaced it with new oil up to the fill port. Two months later when I finally got the back ordered new cooler, I used a pump to fill the newly installed replacement cooler as best I could, then continue to fill the to the fill plug.

Overall effect was to get a little more than a full fluid change for my diff. that had only 3000 miles on it. I was planning on changing it early anyways, because the first change always gets the break in materials out of the mix.

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[JOKER M1]

I don’t know so I’m just asking, is it not important to get the old oil out of the lines and cooler or maybe not possible ?

 

[cerbomark]

I don’t know so I’m just asking, is it not important to get the old oil out of the lines and cooler or maybe not possible ?

na, even if you are OCD, that amount in the lines will be very diluted with all the new stuff. Plus like with any fluid change, you never get all the fluid out anyway.

 

[melwff]

What ever the auto parts store had but if you get the bags of gear oil like I had you don’t need a pump.

There is enough room up there to tilt the bag and squirt the fluid in?

 

[TRDFurgesson]

There is enough room up there to tilt the bag and squirt the fluid in?

I think so, but after doing long tube headers, nothing is impossible.

 

[Bush75]

Wasn't pleased with what I found on the web for a tutorial and decide to make my own for someone like me who was searching for help.

What kind of miles are you at or use to warrant that rear fluid change? Just curious.

 

[TRDFurgesson]

What kind of miles are you at or use to warrant that rear fluid change? Just curious.

Just over 7000 miles, but the majority of the miles are on track. For instance, I can deplete my engine oil life from 100% in 2 to 3 track days. 1 hour on track equates to 15-25% oil life depending on how hard you are pushing.

 

[WD Pro]

I guess you guys have seen this, but to add it to this thread :

WD

 

[TRDFurgesson]

I guess you guys have seen this, but to add it to this thread :

WD

Seems I was quite overdue. Fortunately factory oil that was drained wasn't very dirty. Moving forward Im going to change it every other oil change due to the amount of track use.

 

[TrackMeisterWannabe]

Just over 7000 miles, but the majority of the miles are on track. For instance, I can deplete my engine oil life from 100% in 2 to 3 track days. 1 hour on track equates to 15-25% oil life depending on how hard you are pushing.

Our man Turd livin' the dream. You get a crate engine to put in the corner yet? Hoping to see Brenda Lee on the track for a long time...

 

[TRDFurgesson]

Our man Turd livin' the dream. You get a crate engine to put in the corner yet? Hoping to see Brenda Lee on the track for a long time...

That little coyote likes the long tubes and E85 and she’s in her prime. My problem seems to be brakes. I switched to two piece slotted rotors, and DTC pads, but I’m going through rear brakes at an alarming rate! I thought it was because I was using track mode with the advance track on. Recently I replaced the rear rings since the two piece are rebuildable and new DTC 30 rear pads. One autocross event and two track days later they look like they’ve been on the car for years used up about 30% of the pads and the outer left rear is wearing more the rotors look like a vinyl record. All sessions / autocross runs were driven with advanced track off, since new friction disks and pads. (holding the traction control button up for six seconds after selecting track mode) The rear caliper outboard forks look like I took a blow torch to them, and a lot of that orange paint is burnt off. In Hawks defense the instructor that rode with me for an advanced class check ride with on Mondays autointerests track day, who also had his Mach 1 at the track said wow you’re pretty hard on your brakes…. Tonight I found a crack that makes the right front friction ring unserviceable so at this point, I think my best option is going to be a set of GT 350 Brakes. Until then stock rotors and pads will be going back on. On a positive note, my set up is good. Tire wear looks fantastic. I’ve been running Sport 4s at the track and RT 660s for Autocross in HP sizes. I miss my Cup 2s and would still consider another set for the track.

 

[TrackMeisterWannabe]

That little coyote likes the long tubes and E85 and she’s in her prime. My problem seems to be brakes. I switched to two piece slotted rotors, and DTC pads, but I’m going through rear brakes at an alarming rate! I thought it was because I was using track mode with the advance track on. Recently I replaced the rear rings since the two piece are rebuildable and new DTC 30 rear pads. One autocross event and two track days later they look like they’ve been on the car for years used up about 30% of the pads and the outer left rear is wearing more the rotors look like a vinyl record. All sessions / autocross runs were driven with advanced track off, since new friction disks and pads. (holding the traction control button up for six seconds after selecting track mode) The rear caliper outboard forks look like I took a blow torch to them, and a lot of that orange paint is burnt off. In Hawks defense the instructor that rode with me for an advanced class check ride with on Mondays autointerests track day, who also had his Mach 1 at the track said wow you’re pretty hard on your brakes…. Tonight I found a crack that makes the right front friction ring unserviceable so at this point, I think my best option is going to be a set of GT 350 Brakes. Until then stock rotors and pads will be going back on. On a positive note, my set up is good. Tire wear looks fantastic. I’ve been running Sport 4s at the track and RT 660s for Autocross in HP sizes. I miss my Cup 2s and would still consider another set for the track.

Hove you thought about installing the deflectors that some guys have added to direct more air on the brakes? Not sure what's out there for the rears.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...our-mach-1-today.171200/page-289#post-3850731

 

[Howie]

Wasn't pleased with what I found on the web for a tutorial and decide to make my own for someone like me who was searching for help.

When can we expect a similar helpful video on doing the Tremec? Very helpful video!!

 

[IanKar]

That little coyote likes the long tubes and E85 and she’s in her prime. My problem seems to be brakes. I switched to two piece slotted rotors, and DTC pads, but I’m going through rear brakes at an alarming rate! I thought it was because I was using track mode with the advance track on. Recently I replaced the rear rings since the two piece are rebuildable and new DTC 30 rear pads. One autocross event and two track days later they look like they’ve been on the car for years used up about 30% of the pads and the outer left rear is wearing more the rotors look like a vinyl record. All sessions / autocross runs were driven with advanced track off, since new friction disks and pads. (holding the traction control button up for six seconds after selecting track mode) The rear caliper outboard forks look like I took a blow torch to them, and a lot of that orange paint is burnt off. In Hawks defense the instructor that rode with me for an advanced class check ride with on Mondays autointerests track day, who also had his Mach 1 at the track said wow you’re pretty hard on your brakes…. Tonight I found a crack that makes the right front friction ring unserviceable so at this point, I think my best option is going to be a set of GT 350 Brakes. Until then stock rotors and pads will be going back on. On a positive note, my set up is good. Tire wear looks fantastic. I’ve been running Sport 4s at the track and RT 660s for Autocross in HP sizes. I miss my Cup 2s and would still consider another set for the track.

I have had the same issue with my rears. For now, at 8000 miles (1000 miles track time), I too just replaced with the rotors and pads from factory. I did change my fronts to the Giro and DS1.11 and added the Volshlag brake air deflector. I also had to change the rear calipers as the dust seals got destroyed. I am going to get the Giro rear rotors and figure out what pads to use. I considered the GT350 rear brake kit but one has to replace the rear axles etc. And then deal with the brake bias.

 

[TRDFurgesson]

When can we expect a similar helpful video on doing the Tremec? Very helpful video!!

When I do that in the spring, I will definitely make a video.

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