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I have the jacking rails on the one Mustang and ZL1 Addons Mustang Stealth Lift Pads that screw over the pinch welds, on the other Mustang. I somehow prefer the ZL1 Lift Pads to the jacking rail. Something to look into and see which is best for your purposes.

We mostly say "take it off! take it off!" but in this instance, "put it on! put it on!"

Great advice especially about the door. How many-a-time I almost hit the garage door when raising the car. It goes forward quite a bit.

Nah not stupid. If I go to the 1st level (click) jack stands extend ok. If I go to the maximum height of 2 ft, I put the stands on blocks. There are jack stand points for the car.

I have the 7000TL and I manage just fine. I'm sure it will be easier with the 5000 but the 7000 is good for me.

If you have an issue with clearance or find it's tight, you can always park your car on rubber mats. I also use jack stands for extra "insurance" if I'm going to be working under the car.

Thanks Anthony. All good. Yes we must...

I do all the brake, wheel bearing etc work myself but haven't tried the oil change yet even though I got me a udder. As predicted and based off your experience, it would be a mess. So I think I'll still use the 'shops' for the oil changes. Thanks for the post confirming the udder not being suitable.

I think you have received some great advice. My 5c worth - I would try to get the maximum camber to save the tires. My PS4S tires did fine and I managed to drive over 200 miles each way. Only issue is that you'll see the extra wear on the outside of the tires. Check your brake pads are...

Ha ha. I promise you, this came to me and was going to edit my question but you beat me to it. One only has 6 positions to choose from. I feel stupid but thanks!

I order to get it re-clocked I'll have to get an 'expert' to check on that. This is past my pay grade. I am sure my balance weight was 180 deg to the sticker but will check again. I will bring this up before getting anyone to take out the drive shaft. But if everything is lined up properly etc...

I did notice the yellow sticker but never noted where the weight was. I am sure it was 180 deg off. I am not sure why they would replace the driveshaft and just not get re-balanced? But if my shuddering is still there, I won't waste time and just get the drive shaft balanced.

Got my car back from the shop. They said they checked everything they could and could not feel any play. They can't be 100% on the drive shaft unless it gets taken out and balanced. However, 3 of my wheels were out of balance. They also said my front Giro rotors were out just over spec. A pity...

Thanks. I agree my hood also looks like it wants to lift. Thought of getting the hood pins installed.

Thanks. After all the feedback - it sounds like it's the drive shaft. I have it at the shop tomorrow.

? I never got such letter. I checked online and it says it's sensor that can cause steering wheel to turn side to side. I seriously doubt it's that.

Good point. If nothing is obvious I'll do that for sure.

I checked last night. Lifted the car on my QuickJack and everything seems tight. Checked the driveshaft and I could see the one balance weight on each side but that doesn't mean it's not out of balance. It could be a load of things. Blacksheep gave some advice on sticking the clutch in to help...

These speeds are managed on the straights. I won't be doing those speeds in corners for sure. In this instance it's not the road as and when I ask around, others don't experience it. Also my other car which has been on the same track feels smooth all the way.

Thanks. I do have another set which I tried and it's the same. I'm going to start with the wheel balancing and check each tire/wheel and move on from there. Interesting reading about tire slipping on wheel which also could be a possible cause. But if the wheels are out of balance then that must...