Diff overheating on track

[WCRookie99]

Sounds like you found the issue, the pump not running. Let's see what the dealer finds why? Wiring harness connector not full connected or pins bent, power to the pump or bad pump.

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[WCRookie99]

Well, this certainly reduces my desire for a Mach 1 significantly.

Dont jump off the bridge yet. Be shocked if it’s a M1 widespread issue.

 

[Atlas1]

Dont jump off the bridge yet. Be shocked if it’s a M1 widespread issue.

I agree. Likely something wrong with OP’s car and not Mach 1’s in general

 

[Quick]

I think it's definitely somethign wrong with the pump. I was able to get the diff up to about 290 again, and the pump isn't running. Just don't know why yet.

Trying to get it into a dealer for service, but they all seem to be heavily booked out. We'll see.

 

[melwff]

I think it's definitely somethign wrong with the pump. I was able to get the diff up to about 290 again, and the pump isn't running. Just don't know why yet.

Trying to get it into a dealer for service, but they all seem to be heavily booked out. We'll see.

Are you running your car at Limerock?

 

[Quick]

Are you running your car at Limerock?

No, don't get out there often. just not a fan of that track.

 

[EFI]

I think it's definitely somethign wrong with the pump.

So basically, the very first thing I mentioned for you to check

 

[Cobra Jet]

Good diagnosis so far there Quick!

So do you guys have ramps or a way of getting the rear of the car up in the air (safely)? I'm wondering too if there's a loose harness or connection along the harness that is the problem with on/off activation.

If you can get to the connector do the wiggle test with it and see if the pump kicks on. If it does not, look further along the harness and trace it. Look for any exterior damages to the conduit casing or any other damages such as melting of conduit or wires.

You can also create a jumper yourself using a power source and length of wire. Once you create the jumper, tap it to the + and - of the pump itself and see if it kicks on with a direct jump. If it does, the pump should be good if it fires up with a direct jump.

 

[Quick]

So basically, the very first thing I mentioned for you to check

Well, yes, but not like it has a light on it that says "working" or "not working". It requires considerable effort to test it without the Ford IDS. And even then, I'm still not sure it was under reasonable conditions (as in, perhaps the pump doesn't run when the car is stationary?)

 

[Quick]

Good diagnosis so far there Quick!

So do you guys have ramps or a way of getting the rear of the car up in the air (safely)? I'm wondering too if there's a loose harness or connection along the harness that is the problem with on/off activation.

If you can get to the connector do the wiggle test with it and see if the pump kicks on. If it does not, look further along the harness and trace it. Look for any exterior damages to the conduit casing or any other damages such as melting of conduit or wires.

You can also create a jumper yourself using a power source and length of wire. Once you create the jumper, tap it to the + and - of the pump itself and see if it kicks on with a direct jump. If it does, the pump should be good if it fires up with a direct jump.

Yes. I have a lift in my garage.

Traced all of the harnesses and there wasn't anything to note for loose or lack of connections. Everything was tight. Wiggle test (with car running and diff at 290 degrees) didn't change anything. No damage to anything either - car has 400 miles and basically looked new.

I don't think the pump is a simple +/- on-off. Based on the wiring diagrams I've seen, it receives several signal inputs along with 12v power and ground. If it was as simple as a two wire hookup, I would have tried that.

 

[rorrerjp]

Just came off the track attack day and the cars were beat the snot out off all day with it being around 100*F. No issues at all with anything overheating.

 

[Quick]

Just came off the track attack day and the cars were beat the snot out off all day with it being around 100*F. No issues at all with anything overheating.

Good to hear. I spoke to the guys as Ford Performance and they said the same thing - seemed like something was broken. Car is going in as soon as I can get an appointment with the dealer.

 

[GregO]

Going to drop it off at the dealer tomorrow for this issue as well as the exhaust valve shorting issue.

I’m just the layman here but you mention Exhaust valve shorting out. As in the rear quad tip exhaust valve. Is it failing open or failing closed ? If it’s failing closed and you’re running hard on the track I could see excessive heat building up in the exhaust pipe causing an increase in temperature around the Diff and cooler. This would explain the rise in Diff fluid temps and the inability to dissipate the heat.
Just throwing that out there for consideration.

 

[Quick]

I’m just the layman here but you mention Exhaust valve shorting out. As in the rear quad tip exhaust valve. Is it failing open or failing closed ? If it’s failing closed and you’re running hard on the track I could see excessive heat building up in the exhaust pipe causing an increase in temperature around the Diff and cooler. This would explain the rise in Diff fluid temps and the inability to dissipate the heat.
Just throwing that out there for consideration.

Failing open, thankfully. It failed while it was in "Track" mode.

 

[767.mph]

I think it's definitely somethign wrong with the pump. I was able to get the diff up to about 290 again, and the pump isn't running. Just don't know why yet.

Trying to get it into a dealer for service, but they all seem to be heavily booked out. We'll see.

Whew!! Was worried another design flaw. Glad you found it. Wonder if there is a relay issue to the pump?

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