engineermike
Well-Known Member
This really sounds like the switch is activated based on supply voltage, not current. Maybe a wiring diagram is in order. If you unhook the pump completely/open circuit the light still goes off and on as if there is no issue because there is still voltage, but there is no current. The only way to trigger based on current is to either put the light in series with the pump (bad idea) or to use a hall-effect sensor and other circuitry with acceptable window-logic, as Ford does it.I'm going way simpler. ....can be captured in a simple relay between the pump relay/trigger and the pump itself. You can configure the indicator light relay such that when there's current, the light is off and if there's a current loss, the relay triggers power to the light.
Secondly, pwm current can be anywhere from 12 to 100% of max, all of which are acceptable during normal driving. So any sort of warning light that's hard-wired (or relay driven) would need to be set up just right so that something like 13% duty cycle doesn't look like an error.
Again, these lit switches light up based on voltage, not current. Either that or the light is in series with the switched supply which is, again, a bad idea for anything over a very low amperage.It's honestly no different than the internal features of a lit switch. The little bulb is on when in the switch on and it's off when the circuit is disconnected. If there's a loss of circuit, the light is off, if there's a circuit, the light is on. Easy peasy.
This is why I keep going back to the DW810. I simply don't see what the problem is with running this single pump. The BKS1000 is another viable single that can definitely get the job done. I'd love to make one of these work using the factory PCM logic to drive the speed controller.The issue we're having here is that the market wasn't really accommodating to single/big pump solutions. Hangers and buckets are generally configured to feature multiple smaller pumps rather than one higher (but larger) output pump. Radium allows for the feature of the BKS1000 pump now, which boosted will give more flow than most amateurs need. I'm pretty sure that a single DW440 or Fuelab pump boosted will as well, but with less total head room.
As for the DW440, I thought long and hard about that one, but it doesn't do any more than a DW400 unless you run it at 24 volts. Might as well run a pair of DW400s at 20 volts.
As of now, if I had to recommend a fuel system for the OPs setup I can think of several ideas I like better than any triple pump setup with a combination of brushless and brushed pumps.
1. Pair of DW400s at 18 volts, driven by PCM FPC output. If a single DW400 can support 900+ whp I can't imagine a pair not capable of 1100 with the right size line.
2. Single DW810 (or BKS1000), with controller driven by PCM FPC output.
3. GT500 bucket driven at 18 volts, again driven by PCM FPC output.
4. KPM bucket and controller.
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