Broken crankshaft

[beetle6986]

Ford

Do you have a link that points to this documentation? I specifically asked Roush today if I should be using 5W50 and they stated that I should not. They recommended I use what is on the oil cap from the factory

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[CJJon]

Do you have a link that points to this documentation? I specifically asked Roush today if I should be using 5W50 and they stated that I should not. They recommended I use what is on the oil cap from the factory

Whoever you talked to was full of shit:

NOTE: 5W50 SN PLUS OR SP FULL SYNTHETIC OIL IS REQUIRED to be used.

That is from the Roush install guide for a Phase 2 Supercharger.

Put whatever you want in there though.

 

[Jackson1320]

Why would I run those as opposed to 5w-30? I’m sure there are many schools of thought on engine oil viscosity and why brand x is better than brand y. That being said I’m more than comfortable with my choice.

5w50 is what Ford recommends for supercharged coyotes

 

[beetle6986]

Whoever you talked to was full of shit:

NOTE: 5W50 SN PLUS OR SP FULL SYNTHETIC OIL IS REQUIRED to be used.

That is from the Roush install guide for a Phase 2 Supercharger.

Put whatever you want in there though.

He did tell me they recommend 5w50 for the 2018 and newer models when supercharged. He said for 2015 to 2017 to stick to 5w20.

 

[Jackson1320]

He did tell me they recommend 5w50 for the 2018 and newer models when supercharged. He said for 2015 to 2017 to stick to 5w20.

First of all someone is absolutely talking out of their hemorrhoid factory. because the two shortblocks are basically the same as far as oil needs. Same tolerance, the same clearances, There were no changes to the main journals on both blocks, Same crankshaft, same rod, same bearings.
Second 5W 20 is too thin even for a stock coyote based on bearing clearances

 

[olaosunt]

So how often do you need to change the oil when breaking in a new motor ?
I was under the impression break in oil for a few 100 miles then regular oil .

 

[DrZed]

First of all someone is absolutely talking out of their hemorrhoid factory. because the two shortblocks are basically the same as far as oil needs. Same tolerance, the same clearances, There were no changes to the main journals on both blocks, Same crankshaft, same rod, same bearings.
Second 5W 20 is too thin even for a stock coyote based on bearing clearances

Variable flow oil pump may have something to do with it on 2018+?

 

[TGGT]

So how often do you need to change the oil when breaking in a new motor ?
I was under the impression break in oil for a few 100 miles then regular oil .

For me I did 5-20 semi synthetic initially. I drove the car from my work to home and back the next day and I changed the oil. Second oil change was also 5-20 semi. Drove it for 4 days to work and back and a couple of short trips on the freeway then I changed it. 3rd oil is mobil1 5-30 full syn with a bottle of Lucas. I will say that the shop I used to work at we would build corvettes and camaros. We would break them in on the dyno with a couple of low speed pulls that would progressively increase in load and rpm and then it was several full hits. For me it’s not about a certain amount of miles, but rather heat cycles. A good 10 -15 heat cycles and I’m good

 

[Jackson1320]

Variable flow oil pump may have something to do with it on 2018+?

That doesn’t change the bearing clearances. You need a oil that matches the clearances

 

[Jackson1320]

For me I did 5-20 semi synthetic initially. I drove the car from my work to home and back the next day and I changed the oil. Second oil change was also 5-20 semi. Drove it for 4 days to work and back and a couple of short trips on the freeway then I changed it. 3rd oil is mobil1 5-30 full syn with a bottle of Lucas. I will say that the shop I used to work at we would build corvettes and camaros. We would break them in on the dyno with a couple of low speed pulls that would progressively increase in load and rpm and then it was several full hits. For me it’s not about a certain amount of miles, but rather heat cycles. A good 10 -15 heat cycles and I’m good

I also change my oil a lot on a new engine. Also People don’t understand that they need to get on it and build some cylinder pressure to seat the rings

 

[Jackson1320]

If you drive like a Girl Scouts and add a bunch of additives you will ruin the engine with 20 miles on it

 

[Jackson1320]

I recommend using a oil designed for diesels during break in

 

[TGGT]

I also change my oil a lot on a new engine. Also People don’t understand that they need to get on it and build some cylinder pressure to seat the rings

Definitely this. I drove easy for a couple of miles and did 5-6 small pulls maybe 1/4-1/3 throttle. First to 3 grand then let it coast down in gear then 4 then 5. After that initial process I’ve been pretty easy on it, but probably in the next day or 2 I’ll go for a full hit. I used to run 5-50 and I think is necessary on cars that see a lot of track time. I’ll probably switch back to the driven 5-50 I used to run or rottela t6 5-40. My car is a street car first and maybe sees 1 good hit every couple of weeks. So for the time being I’m comfortable with the mobil1 5-30

 

[Jackson1320]

Definitely this. I drove easy for a couple of miles and did 5-6 small pulls maybe 1/4-1/3 throttle. First to 3 grand then let it coast down in gear then 4 then 5. After that initial process I’ve been pretty easy on it, but probably in the next day or 2 I’ll go for a full hit. I used to run 5-50 and I think is necessary on cars that see a lot of track time. I’ll probably switch back to the driven 5-50 I used to run or rottela t6 5-40. My car is a street car first and maybe sees 1 good hit every couple of weeks. So for the time being I’m comfortable with the mobil1 5-30

You know exactly what to do. The motor should break in nice

 

[Nola504boy]

Im running the procharger crank support and the Kentic Crank saver stud… works way better than the ARP bolt

The guy who installed my crank support told me that my new kentic stud wouldn’t fit with my crank support so he used the supplied stud. Should I be worried? I mean I still have the crank support itself on the car. I just really wanted both of them on. I’m using the innovators west balancer as well. Not sure if that makes a difference.

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