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BMR Jacking rails vs Steeda jacking rails

Maddog1337

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Steeda has the full length now.
Dang! Good catch. Wish these had been an option.

I did successfully jack the car up today per Ted's recommendation above, with a jack stand on the rear pinch weld and front 'bar' portion of the rail. (Busy day - undercoating with Fluid Film, mounting the Blizzaks). Although Steeda's picture of the orange Stang is compelling, I just felt more comfortable this way. Personal preference. Thanks for the clarification everyone.
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Demonic

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I haven't read all 9 pages of this thread. But has anyone tried the ZL1-addon aluminum block jacking points? I assume they'd weigh even less than the rails.
 

Caballus

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Wrote Steeda to ask how much less the low profile rails extend below the pinch welds compared to the normal version. They responded that the only difference between the two is the length--the low profile are longer. If that's the case, why are they called "low profile?"
 

tedj101

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I haven't read all 9 pages of this thread. But has anyone tried the ZL1-addon aluminum block jacking points? I assume they'd weigh even less than the rails.
I'll gladly take the extra weight to have the freedom to jack up the car anywhere along the side. There are times when that is most useful!

<TED>
 

lightrules

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Need one question answered. Installed the Steeda rails today on my R. Noticed that they are not perfectly parallel to the ground but slightly tilted/angled upwards toward the center of the car, a very slight "slope". I assume this is how the Steeda is designed, to go with the build of the under-panel? Please confirm it should be slightly angled/sloped. Thanks all.
 

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Nfs1000f

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Need one question answered. Installed the Steeda rails today on my R. Noticed that they are not perfectly parallel to the ground but slightly tilted/angled upwards toward the center of the car, a very slight "slope". I assume this is how the Steeda is designed, to go with the build of the under-panel? Please confirm it should be slightly angled/sloped. Thanks all.
Mine are the same.
 

lightrules

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Another feature that is unique to BMR rails is the main tube is parallel to the ground when the vehicle is level, instead of sloped like the chassis it mounts to. Not a big deal, but something we wanted to do and knew the competition wouldn't offer (we released rails before anyone else)
I just discovered this slope last night while installing my Steeda rails. I was thinking, "There is no way to get this flush parallel to the ground." I thought I had not scraped the sealer seam off enough or was doing something wrong, but after looking at the under-panel chassis design, the Steeda seems to "have to" slope. I find it strange no one has really mentioned this as it would seem more secure parallel. Anyway I hope I installed this thing right!
 

2panther

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Probably a stupid question but I finally put on my Steeda jacking rails and am curious if the "U" shaped top of the jack stand is supposed to let the rail sit at the bottom of the "U" or should I still be using the pinch weld locations?

If I'm supposed to use the pinch weld locations is the thin pinch weld metal just supposed to touch the bottom of the "U" in the jack stand top?
 

BMR Tech

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I just discovered this slope last night while installing my Steeda rails. I was thinking, "There is no way to get this flush parallel to the ground." I thought I had not scraped the sealer seam off enough or was doing something wrong, but after looking at the under-panel chassis design, the Steeda seems to "have to" slope. I find it strange no one has really mentioned this as it would seem more secure parallel. Anyway I hope I installed this thing right!
BMR is the only company that has offered a true flat to surface (not to car) jacking rail for the S550 (CJR001). It was our first, and the industry's first jacking rail for the S550.

As time went by, our sales plummeted as other companies were releasing much lesser designs at much lesser price points. When we realized that the consumers were buying on price, we made our CJR002 design which does sit flat to body and angles up inboard like the others on the market.
20150203_133411.webp
 

tj@steeda

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Probably a stupid question but I finally put on my Steeda jacking rails and am curious if the "U" shaped top of the jack stand is supposed to let the rail sit at the bottom of the "U" or should I still be using the pinch weld locations?

If I'm supposed to use the pinch weld locations is the thin pinch weld metal just supposed to touch the bottom of the "U" in the jack stand top?
Let the rails sit on the jack stand - no need for it to touch the U ... the jack stands on the rail will work well.

TJ
 

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tj@steeda

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To anyone that purchased from " companies were releasing much lesser designs at much lesser price points." ... hopefully your rails are doing as intended :wink:. YOU could have spent your money on a much greater design but had to settle for something less :beer:.

Kudos!

TJ
 

Epiphany

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I like to disassemble things.
I had both versions of BMR's rails and as for content BMR has offered more. The first version, as mentioned up above, that reorientated the main run of tubing such that it sat parallel to the ground as well as the latest version which does not. Both were longer than the competition, giving the end use more choice in terms of jack/stand locations as well as spreading the load out further than anyone elses.:bandit:
 

2panther

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I'm either really dense or haven't had enough coffee but I just can't picture this. So just the very tips of the jack stand should be touching the jacking rail and not sitting down into the U, is that correct?
 

Epiphany

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I like to disassemble things.
In other words, the angularity of the rails relative to the ground means the bottom of them won't be parallel to the ground. As such, they won't be perfectly flush when the sit the pocket of a typical jack stand. Not a major concern though as the deviation is small which means the box structure will still be captured by the yoke at the top of a typical jack stand.
 

tj@steeda

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I'm either really dense or haven't had enough coffee but I just can't picture this. So just the very tips of the jack stand should be touching the jacking rail and not sitting down into the U, is that correct?
Send me your contact info with a picture of your stands - I can't pm you.

TJ
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