Being smooth while driving M trans?

[Hack]

Maybe it's that I am inept, but I think it's normal to have non-smooth power application in a vehicle with a higher power to weight ratio and a manual transmission. I've been driving manual transmission cars for 40+ years and I'm not very smooth at it.

And that's why I enjoy driving cars with a manual transmission. Sometimes I get it right and almost perfect, but it's definitely not every time. So it gives me something to work on every time I get in the car.

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[NightmareMoon]

Upshifting is pretty easy, but if you try to go too fast or two slow (or you don’t supply the right amount of throttle), then it can be harsh. If the car lurches slower, you didn’t give enough throttle or shifted too late. If it lurches forward, you gave too much or shifted too soon.

Look up double clutch rev match downshifts. Theres a 3rd rotatating mass (besides the engine and axle/rear wheels) which has to be at a happy matching speed to get a car into gear. Syncros on modern cars make it so most people don’t have to pay much attention, but if you really learn whats going on you can do a buttery smooth and fast downshift too.

 

[Prodigal]

The rev matching feature in the Mach 1 actually make down shifting a piece of cake.

 

[PC_GUARD]

The rev matching feature in the Mach 1 actually make down shifting a piece of cake.

I'm on gen 2, and I'm not sure if I had an auto rev match I'd be able to accept it lol

Although roll racing I think it would be very handy.

 

[ajsfirehawk]

I've been driving manuals all my life and this clutch is tough to deal with because there is zero feedback as to when it is engaging. It is literally the only thing I don' like about the car. The complete inability to feel the takeup point via the clutch pedal. It is a matter of creating enough muscle memory to learn where it is. It isn't unworkable but I do get the occasional reving before it picks up or abrupt engagement because I'm not on the throttle enough if I miscalculate the takeup point.

 

[ice445]

I drove my car for years with the stock spring, and it was fine although sometimes I would forget about how strong the assist was when letting out the clutch and get some jerking. With the steeda spring, the feedback isn't really that much different but it seems like it's easier to smoothly pull through the bite zone without my foot getting launched off the pedal.

On top of that, once I fixed my leaking clutch master supply line, the car felt much better to drive yet again. Now the bite zone seems much closer to the floor instead of up top where it was before. This is unlikely to be your issue (I believe I caused my own issue there with a zip tie), but it's a known weak point on these cars as well.

 

[Silver Bullitt]

Personally, I think people try to shift too slow which results in the clunkiness. Just shift the damn thing.

 

[NightmareMoon]

I've been driving manuals all my life and this clutch is tough to deal with because there is zero feedback as to when it is engaging. It is literally the only thing I don' like about the car. The complete inability to feel the takeup point via the clutch pedal. It is a matter of creating enough muscle memory to learn where it is. It isn't unworkable but I do get the occasional reving before it picks up or abrupt engagement because I'm not on the throttle enough if I miscalculate the takeup point.

If you didnt know already, the aftermarket lighter clutch assist springs (which assist less, so heavier pedal) can get you a lot more clutch feel back. Most people who try them recommend them. With a lighter assist spring you can actually feel where it engages.

 

[RocketGuy3]

The rev hang is to help you shift and usually only happens if you're into it.

The rev hang I'm describing is certainly not to help you shift. It's for emissions purposes, and it happens all the time. Engineering Explained had a great video on why it happens. It's annoying as hell. Direct injection (as is in the 2018+ V8s) mitigates the issue, as does Ford's performance tune.




I'm not even sure the car ever hangs the revs for any other reason. You may be thinking of rev-matching, but that happens on downshifts, not upshifts.

 

[NightmareMoon]

Ya, there is rev hang and rev match. Rev hang is emissions related and is annoying. Rev match should be helping.

 

[Jaymar]

Ya, there is rev hang and rev match. Rev hang is emissions related and is annoying. Rev match should be helping.

Does the Mach 1 have the rev match? I thought it was only on mt82 cars. Regardless, that only helps on downshift. OP seems to be having difficulty on moderate power upshifts? To which I would say fix the clutch assist spring then slow your shifts down until you get a feel for it. It feels weird and exaggerated at first. Then, you'll find yourself pulling through it quicker once you get the steps down.

 

[PC_GUARD]

Ya, there is rev hang and rev match. Rev hang is emissions related and is annoying. Rev match should be helping.

On mine the only time I get rev hang if abort a pull, the rest of the time, I never notice.

 

[Marketplaza]

here's some tips other than the obvious practice.

1. let the engine do the work. you can put it in gear, give it ZERO throttle, and as the clutch grabs the car will walk forward. same for reverse.
2. shift after 4K once you're moving. these cars do not like you to shift them low.
3. develop your mechanical sympathy. you can feel the synchros from your shifter, you can feel the clutch grab, all of it is there in factory form (but the clutch helper spring is a 2 minute mod that helps a ton).

I have 4.09 gears installed. Do I still have to wait until 4K to shift? I grew up driving a manual and I’ve always changed mine around 2k rpm’s unless I’m racing someone.

 

[AZlb5.0]

I have 4.09 gears installed. Do I still have to wait until 4K to shift? I grew up driving a manual and I’ve always changed mine around 2k rpm’s unless I’m racing someone.

Most folks who drive manual shift by feel/sound. I rarely shift by looking at the RPM gauge unless there’s something I’m trying to accomplish, wether if I’m trying to hit a target rpm when launching or when working on my shifting on entering/exiting turns at the track and again that’s just practice until I get it down by seat feel and sound.

After a while it becomes second nature. It like I stated before, what helps is seat time.

 

[RonsterGT]

Get an MGW shifter. Get a Steeda clutch spring and perch. If you're short (under 5'6"), you may want to consider a clutch pedal extender as well.

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