You're probably right. Would have been nice to have clips that are easier to remove, but in all honesty I don't need to get at my battery as often anymore. Would've been nice when I needed to trickle charge it during quarantine, but been dailying for a while, so no point.
When you see the factory retainers you'll see there couldn't be anything easier to remove. You just turn the fastener with your thumb and finger and it lifts right out.
Begs a question the heck was a Ford tech doing when doing such a simple job? You must be right, lost it, not broken.
How do you take those clips apart?I thought I would take a picture for future reference if anyone was interested. Thanks go to those that pointed me in the right direction. These are the two sensors that thehunteroo was talking about. My system seems to be working fine and it has a new battery with a January 2019 date so hopefully I will not have any issues. But it is nice to know for future reference.
This is going to sound very stupid, but uhh... how do you disconnect these clips? I saw the clip/lever you push down & pull, but not a single bit of give for mine. The taillights and the seats were the only things I've ever disconnected, but they gave away like butter.I thought I would take a picture for future reference if anyone was interested. Thanks go to those that pointed me in the right direction. These are the two sensors that thehunteroo was talking about. My system seems to be working fine and it has a new battery with a January 2019 date so hopefully I will not have any issues. But it is nice to know for future reference.
Lots of heat kills batteries faster, and I see you're in Texas where it gets pretty hot. Keeping the cover on the battery box helps keep the battery a lot cooler from engine bay heat BTW.
Yup, cover stays on, and I've removed the insulating foam attached to the underside of the hood as well. Always been garage kept until 2022. Still killed batteries like crazy. Meanwhile, my mom's RAV4 still has the original battery, working since 2012. Maybe even older, since I don't know the exact year model, but it's still the factory battery since we've purchased it--nothing has been done to it outside of oil changes.
I put an AC Delco "Professional Silver" 96RPS battery in my GT coming up on 6 years ago. It's still as strong as ever. Always keep it charged up over the winter time so it's never below 90% state of charge. You always been using the Motorcraft batteries?
Yeah, that's right, I've used Motorcraft because they've all been replaced under a warranty, so I haven't yet bought myself one yet. I've been looking into the Odyssey brand since quite a few people on here swear by it.
I tried again and still can't get the bastards off. Thank goodness for FORScan I guess, but I love physical disconnects more. Disabled the BMS (changed from "PWM" to "None"), and now the battery is back to a healthy state. Holds 12.4-12.5 V and she stays on for ages.
Every single day, 30+ miles a day. Hell, back when it was garage kept, it got even more miles--50+ miles a day easily, and that's when the two batteries I've had died back-to-back.
I'm chalking it up to the BMS, the Motorcraft battery's back to holding its nominal voltage with the BMS disabled. Made it through a few days of sub-freezing temperatures and it held just fine. Let's give it a few years & we'll see.
You don't, lol. The construction of the induction sensors is misleading, it looks like you can unclip it, but you can't. They actually get slid onto the wire from the terminal end (you unbolt the nut that connects the wire spade to the battery terminal for the battery side sensor). The service manual says to mark the location and orientation of the original sensor so you can index the new one before you tape it in place.
You sure? Look at page four. I have a 2015-2017 model as well, so it shouldn't be different.
