B&O 10" sub replacement guide

[mc68386]

I have to say that the most disappointing thing about my 2019 GT is the B&O sound system. Its not even close to as good as the Shaker system. Just really really weak sound.

Amazing they "upgraded" from Shaker to B&O and now the consensus is that the B&O system is CR#P! Sounds like the B&O brand needs to be sh?tcanned wholesale. Even if they at one time made quality product, the fact that they put their name on this garbage shows they are charlatans.

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[Gregs24]

Amazing they "upgraded" from Shaker to B&O and now the consensus is that the B&O system is CR#P! Sounds like the B&O brand needs to be sh?tcanned wholesale. Even if they at one time made quality product, the fact that they put their name on this garbage shows they are charlatans.

Wow - steady on !!
Only the Sub is crap - the rest are fine once you can hear them. Just a shame they ruined it for the sake of $50. I think the Shaker got away with a similar problem because the 8" sub doesn't produce much sound so you don't get overwhelmed by boom

 

[Elp_jc]

500W against 400W. But I never try any of them on stock amp.

I thought you were using the stock amp, so never mind. Yours might be too much for the stock amp (since it needs more power), so probably better to stick to the A-series when using the stock amp. Thanks anyway brother.

 

[peoples1234]

I got this done today, perfect. Exactly like it should have been from the factory. Thank you OP for putting this together.

I ordered a TS-A250D4, but they sent me a TS-A100D4. I looked at the specs on the pioneer website and couldn’t see any differences....so I went with it. Maybe it is just a new model #.

 

[Xander33]

Thanks @Gregs24

ordered mine today for $69!

 

[D Bergstrom]

I ordered a TS-A250D4, but they sent me a TS-A100D4. I looked at the specs on the pioneer website and couldn’t see any differences....so I went with it. Maybe it is just a new model #.

Same here. Ordered a TS-A250D4 off Ebay for $70 and received today, it is a TS-A100D4. Guess the A250D4 may be discontinued? Will give the A100D4 a try, have to get seem polyfil first.

Doug

 

[peoples1234]

Same here. Ordered a TS-A250D4 off Ebay for $70 and received today, it is a TS-A100D4. Guess the A250D4 may be discontinued? Will give the A100D4 a try, have to get seem polyfil first.

Doug

yea, I scoured the spec sheets and I couldn’t find one difference. Visually, the 250 has a silver ring in the cone around the pioneer, and the 100 is all black.

 

[Gregs24]

It looks like the TS-A100D4 is the US version of the same speaker with slight cosmetic differences. We can't get it it here in the UK, we still have the TS -A250D4.

As has been said they look identical spec wise

I have updated the original post and spec page to reflect this

 

[D Bergstrom]

So ended up installing my TS-A100D4 sub this morning. I did it a little different, I ended up notching all the screw holes in the subwoofer, so instead of a circle, each hole was open to the edge of the sub, like a "U" shape. This allowed the screw to sit between the hole and edge of the speaker, therefore I didn't have to drill new holes in the box. The factory grill then held the speaker in place. Hopefully that makes sense.(Sorry, I thought I took a couple of pictures, but now I don't see them on my phone, and I already installed the box back in the trunk.) Hardest part was just getting the wires hooked up before placing in the box, they are just barely long enough! Just turned the radio on in my garage and gave it a quick listen, and the base does sound a little more solid and clean, wouldn't call it earth shattering, but an improvement. Will give it a good test once I go out for a drive.

Doug

 

[peoples1234]

I know this isn’t exactly related to the thread, but I had some weird rattling and resonance after the sub was installed at higher sound levels. No doubt because of the more powerful sub and the propensity of my car to rattle I had read on several threads about lowering a rear seat to let the bass pass through and man that made the biggest difference in bass volume of anything. So much so that I had to turn the bass way down to get the same level of volume as before. So now I have a much cleaner sound from the sub and more volume, but also more road noise with the seat down. I’ll probably try and add sound deadening to the trunk area, remove the rear deck speakers as other have done so I can put the seat back in place.
Either way, if you replace the sub and aren’t happy, give that a shot. I probably like more bass than the OP (just a Bose pleb here).

The rear deck speakers from the factory are pretty terrible anyway.

EDIT: I didn’t like the additional road noise, so instead I addressed the rattle, which was the rear deck on the back glass. So back to seats back up and no rattle.

 

[Chef jpd]

Check this thread:

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...ides-folding-the-rear-seat-backs-down.128004/

 

[ManyfordsnoMustang]

Just did this conversion myself. I too received a TS-A100D4. Music and sound preferences, like many things, are subjective - along with aging etc. But I noticed a huge difference, way less boomy, much tighter and I put the bass back up a bit as well. I also have a convertible so I am sure that plays into how it sounds compared to other cars. FYI, I pulled the wires out of the connectors which allowed me to have another inch of room on both sides to connect the wires to the new speaker. Highly recommend this. Thanks Greg for the insight

 

[Gregs24]

Just this conversion mysef. I too received a TS-A100D4. Music and sound preferences like many things are subjective - along with aging etc. But I noticed a huge difference, way less boomy, much tighter and I put the bass back up a bit as well. I also have a convertible so I am sure that playes into how it sounds compared to other cars. FYI, I pulled the wires out of the connectors which allowed me to have another inch of room on both sides to connect the wires. Highly recommend this. Thanks Greg for the insight

I found when fitting the cable you have to do the bottom terminals first then the top ones or you can't get at them.

 

[Elp_jc]

I ended up notching all the screw holes in the subwoofer

Hey, you beat me to it. Ha ha. But I was thinking of installing washers on the sub screws, for a more solid install. The grille screws are separate from the sub ones, for what I remember, right? You definitely want the sub screws solidly tight; that's why I wanted to keep the original holes. The grille is just to protect the sub, but it can help a little, I guess. Will order it now then, and see if I can add washers.

By the way, wouldn't be easier to disconnect the wire connector from the bottom of the sub box, then reconnect it once the wires are attached to the sub? Poly-fil would make it that harder, but curious if anybody tried it that way. And yes, the idea of destroying the connector to leave the wires as long as possible is a good suggestion, which I'll follow .

 

[ManyfordsnoMustang]

The screws hold the speaker and the grille in place at the same time. I made the screw holes in the Pioneer speaker larger as well, but decided on using the black screws that came with the new speaker since they did not have that large pan head on the original screws. They worked great. using original holes in the original speaker grill and sub box.

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