B&O 10" sub replacement guide

[krishelnino]

How does that sound compared to stock?

curious. I am massive JL fan, so seeing this makes me happy. I am assuming sounds quite good, but if using stock amp, constrained on power. man, a small power upgrade would rock it.

I have a full setup with 2 amps. I was running the Shaker enclosure with a JL 8" sub, wanted to try the 10" enclosure to see if it makes any difference. I noticed a slight improvement compared to the 8" sub. I changed the tweeters as well, so have to tune everything before I can give my feedback

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[m3incorp]

I see what you mean. The carpet covers that area on the B&O cars.

Some pics.

 

[FreePenguin]

I see what you mean. The carpet covers that area on the B&O cars.

go to carpet store, find some matching fabric, make 2 squares and set em down lol

 

[BlownGP]

^^^^

@BlownGP @gpierce @m3incorp @Cathul

FYI, The B&O 10" sub uses the same mounting holes as the 8" Shaker Pro sub. I swapped the 8" Shaker Pro sub enclosure with JL 8w3v3-4 in my car to a 10" B&O enclosure with JL 10w1v3-4. I'll post some pics tomorrow. The only issue is the trunk liner leaves a visible gap near the bottom 2 sub mounting locations so you can see the bare metal underneath. The Shaker Pro sub has another plastic trim piece to cover that gap

Awesome.. Thanks for the help guys.
I don't mind the bare metal showing like @FreePenguin said just some small strips of fabric for hobby lobby or something.


Another project to do.. lol

 

[Mestisoboy]

How about if you 'Dremel' the edge (the 90-deg bend) of the Pioneer sub where the screw goes, and use the original hole, with the OEM grille pressuring the speaker down? Would that be enough? Without the grille, the screw head would still grab the speaker, but the grille should push it down enough IMO. That would be the only way to install it for me. Thx.

I did it that way. Holes lined up perfectly. Didn't have to drill holes in the box and I re-used the factory screws. Took 2 minutes with a cutoff wheel on a die grinder. The seal is the same.
I snagged a 2nd complete B&O box off of eBay for $150. I'm stashing my stocker in the attic.
To be honest, it tightened up the bass but it's still underwhelming.
You can crank this B&O to full volume and it sounds like it's only at 60-70%
I have an 8yr/125k Ford Protect Premium Care warranty so I guess I'll just have to live with it.
My Shaker 1000 in my 08 GT/CS blows this B&O system out of the water.

 

[Matthewstorm]

Dude, you shoulda gone with the JL Audio Stealthbox.

 

[Cathul]

To be honest, it tightened up the bass but it's still underwhelming.
You can crank this B&O to full volume and it sounds like it's only at 60-70%
I have an 8yr/125k Ford Protect Premium Care warranty so I guess I'll just have to live with it.
My Shaker 1000 in my 08 GT/CS blows this B&O system out of the water.

Add amplifiers to your system. The stock amp cannot magically deliver more power.

Dude, you shoulda gone with the JL Audio Stealthbox.

Which costs roughly 10x as much as the pioneer sub. Still 4-5x as much if you get a 2nd B&O enclosure.
And then you still don't have the needed power to make the JL really shine.

 

[Gregs24]

Add amplifiers to your system. The stock amp cannot magically deliver more power.


Which costs roughly 10x as much as the pioneer sub. Still 4-5x as much if you get a 2nd B&O enclosure.
And you still don't have more power still to make the JL really shine.

As you say this upgrade was never about ground shaking bass, just making a big step forward in sound quality for very little money

 

[Cathul]

As you say this upgrade was never about ground shaking bass, just making a big step forward in sound quality for very little money

Exactly.
And this is what most people don't realize.
By swapping speakers you can only achieve limited results.
The limiting factor is the stock DSP amplifier in my opinion.
Give the stock speakers more power and a DSP that holds up to his name and you probably would achieve a lot more than just by swapping speakers.

Helix does so with the Match line of amplifiers and car specifik tunings, f.e. in BMWs.
There you just swap the amplifier and achive much better sound even with the stock speakers.
Swap them, too and it's a night and day difference after a retuning session with a laptop and a microphone.

 

[WD Pro]

But is that not a bit like someone asking about a drop in filter and someone else recommending a whipple … ?

WD

 

[gpierce]

Don’t need to change the DSP people. I’ve got car shattering bass with 500 watt amp that has high level inputs. Gain set to 1/4 so a 250 would be perfect.

I’m using the 500 watt version of this, you will not be disappointed:

https://rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/r2-250x1/

 

[Gregs24]

Don’t need to change the DSP people. I’ve got car shattering base with 500 watt amp that has high level inputs. Gain set to 1/4 so a 250 would be perfect.

I’m using the 500 watt version of this, you will not be disappointed:

https://rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/r2-250x1/

Pardon. What did you say ?

 

[m3incorp]

All the other stock B&O speakers also sound subpar to me.

Don’t need to change the DSP people. I’ve got car shattering bass with 500 watt amp that has high level inputs. Gain set to 1/4 so a 250 would be perfect.

I’m using the 500 watt version of this, you will not be disappointed:

https://rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/r2-250x1/

 

[gpierce]

All the other stock B&O speakers also sound subpar to me.

i replaced a couple of the midbass fronts with some lower end Pioneers (new ones) I had lying around. I thought the factory speakers were better so I changed them back. Granted lower end stuff but all up for just the sub and amp only cost me $300 so replacing the rest would cost a ton. Also I have a convertible and so with top down I’d need to replace practically everything to get better sound. I’m happy anyway I have a 2014 Falcon too and in that I did replace everything, but that car doesn’t have a DSP or anything too fancy anyway.

 

[dires114]

Thanks to OP and all others for wealth of info. I am about to undertake this mod and considering driver options and appreciate greg's list. leaning towards JL as I have always enjoyed them.

Given stock sub is DVC 4 ohm, if I use a JL 10W1v3 single voice coil and splice black/purple and green/yellow, wouldn't that in effect be like having the DSP/amp expect to drive a 2ohm load, so would the 10W1v3-2 (2ohm) sub be the better choice, rather than the 10W1v3-4 (4ohm) sub? If not, could someone explain to me why? Otherwise why bother splicing or using both channels?

Thanks for everyone's help

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