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B&O 10" sub replacement guide

bryyce62

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When you say it took about a hour, is there any chance that you could give us your particular step-by-step install including removing the stock grill, exact wiring hook up and exactly what you notched? Thanks a ton.
Pretty much as Greg said, but here's my method.

Removed the box from the trunk, brought it in the house. Broke nearly all the tabs that hold the grille ring but got it off. Shitty grille ring mounting scheme, IMO. Unscrewed the grille & removed the speaker. Took a dremel and cut away the metal on the new sub between the mounting holes and the edge, leaving a v-shaped opening instead of a hole at all 6 mounting holes. Cut the speaker connectors off. Stripped & tinned the wires. Rewired the sub. Lined up the notches on the sub with the mounting holes and reattached the grille. The grille will hold the speaker in place. A little RTV to the grillle ring and reattached it. Took the box out to the garage and dropped it back in the trunk.

I put a small line of sticky tape around the bottom edge of the sub to help with sealing to the box. Don't know if it was necessary, but did it anyway.
I did not drill a single hole in anything.
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Dark Side

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Just finished this today. Huge improvement over stock. I'll be adding some fill, but other than that it's perfect
 

Bulldog9

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Great Post, thanks. I'm shocked at how BAD this 'premium' system is.

Now let's talk about the even WORSE rear deck speakers....... 1960 transistor radio anyone? I'm glad that at least the front speakers are decent. I'd want to change the rear deck speakers before the sub, especially as I really can't ever tell I even have one.....
 

FreePenguin

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OF5.0

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Yeah but I need it in the cabin area for top down bass also looking at some shallow mount 6.5 -8" and other compact in cabin solutions.

The kickers could double as a rear seat arm rest, with a quick leather wrap:)...I'd love to integrate to rear seat area if possible so ppl can still sit.

I noticed the rear seat cushion has a large hollowed out round area underneath...shallow 10" protected with heavy screen may fit!
I’ve been noticing your plight for bass in your anticipated convertible. Those Kicker tube subwoofer enclosures are big. Where are you going to mount them in the cabin? Have you lookied at the Alpine PSU-300MTG?. It can be adapted for the 9-speaker system. The subwoofer mounts under the dash on the passenger side.

You are going to have a difficult, if not impossible, time trying to find any 6.5” door-mounted speaker capable of delivering subwoofer-quality bass. For each octave below the crossover point, the cone must move 4 times the distance to maintain volume. Most 6.5” speakers have a 4-5 mm Xmax. So, if you are already at Xmax at 80 Hz, you cannot get very good volume at 40Hz. Just because a speaker is rated to 30-40 Hz, it’s not a flat response. You need a subwoofer for the bass that you are looking for.

If you are going to have rear seat passengers, you probably should abandon the rear seat cushion subwoofers idea. There will be no comfort in those seats.
 

aw081271

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Is there a replacement recommendation for the rear speakers ?
no major conversion, just plug & play
 

frank_white

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I did this last month. Very easy install except i broke every clip holding the front cover on. I hear a difference for sure but havent driven it much since. Looking forward to hearing it after it breaks in and i can crank it
 

gpierce

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looks kinda cool.
but id personally look for a JL stealth box, I used to see them often for 450-500 on here. I sold mine for 500 myself. Great subwoofer, retaining stock sub location meaning full access to trunk.
They don't make a stealthbox for a convertible. No one makes one that fits in the factory location.
 

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gpierce

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Yeah but I need it in the cabin area for top down bass also looking at some shallow mount 6.5 -8" and other compact in cabin solutions.
Mmm, Not required in the cabin in my opinion. My 10" in my factory enclosure kicks a$$ top up or down. The verts are good because it's not blocked off as much as a coupe is. With my RF 500x1 amp I can't turn it up too loud otherwise it shakes the car apart:)

I need to do something about the trunk panel rattles, makes an awful racket on the outside:)
 

FreePenguin

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Thanks.
What can you say about the sound of the 165s?

I have seen that the 165s have 4 ohms,
doesn't the B&O system only have 2 ohms?
Shaker pro has 2Ohm in 6.5’s in door and shelf. I would imagine bo same way.

Non pro. Is 4ohms.

Going from 2 to 4 would halve the sound not factoring in speaker sensitivity. So it would drop sound quite a bit. Going from 4 to 2 would bump sound up same amount
 
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Gregs24

Gregs24

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Great Post, thanks. I'm shocked at how BAD this 'premium' system is.

Now let's talk about the even WORSE rear deck speakers....... 1960 transistor radio anyone? I'm glad that at least the front speakers are decent. I'd want to change the rear deck speakers before the sub, especially as I really can't ever tell I even have one.....
The rear speakers on 2019 onwards B&O cars are not actually that bad, and do very little work anyway.

Other than the sub, the 12 speaker setup is perfectly OK unless you want to spend a lot of money upgrading. Plus you need to soundproof the car better as well otherwise it is pointless! I added an extra layer of soundproofing under the boot mat which made a big difference - there is a lot of noise coming from that rear end - not nice noise either!
 

OF5.0

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Thanks.
What can you say about the sound of the 165s?

I have seen that the 165s have 4 ohms,
doesn't the B&O system only have 2 ohms?
Focal makes great speakers.
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