Another oil replacement question...

[Sajin]

Actually its Better, runs cooler and is the best High Temp and High pressure resistance oil ever tested. And its inexpensive, I buy a 5quart bottle for $25 at Menard's! it is 5-30w i couldn't remember his blog. Read It!

That is nice. I'll stick to a 50w oil in my GT350r.

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[FlipC]

That is nice. I'll stick to a 50w oil in my GT350r.

Whatever your choice. He said he believes if a person changes their oil regularly and engine would last Forever. I have been using it for 4-years now. My
John deer lawnmower gets twice the fuel mileage now. Just trying to help.

 

[Spart]

Here is a Blog this engineer made a few years ago. He has tested over 250 different motor oils over the years and he says the Best one ever is 5-20 Full Synthetic Quaker state. I run it in everything I have. My 20 GT350, 2006GT, 2019 GT, Everything! Read the blog it is interesting and makes sense. MOTOR OIL ENGINEERING TEST DATA | 540 RAT - Tech Facts, NOT Myths (wordpress.com)

So uh.... first of all, can you post your chassis number? The one on the passenger side dash. I just want to check something.

Second of all, that guy is recommending 5W-30 and not 5W-20 just through a cursory scroll.

Third of all, the RANDOM use of ALL CAPS by that guy and his borderline maniacal RANTS are NOT confidence INSPIRING.

I mean come on:

"This is FURTHER PROOF that Gear Heads can ONLY FIND THE TRUTH about motor oil right here in my Blog. So, Gear Heads everywhere should ignore all those Internet Automotive, Motor Oil, Motorcycle, Tractor and Boat Forums, because they only throw out WRONG, WORTHLESS information about motor oil."

Fourth, this is a dead giveaway:

"METHODOLOGY
The details of the specific test equipment set-up I developed, as well as the details of the specific test procedure I developed, that provide the accuracy and repeatability that I demand, are Proprietary Intellectual Property. But, I can share the following:
The test methodology or test procedure I use at a representative operating oil temperature of 230*F, is a dynamic rubbing friction test under load, which generates a wear scar on a test specimen that is bathed in the oil being tested. This procedure, which is performed exactly the same for every motor oil tested, provides excellent repeatability, which is critical to validate the methodology."

Okay it's proprietary so he can't tell you, but the part about "friction test under load, which generates a wear scar" indicates he's using something akin to a one-armed bandit:

While these devices are indeed designed for a purpose, that purpose is not testing motor oil.

There is no component of a modern engine that should see metal-on-metal sliding parts in the way that tester works. That is not how they are designed to work. This tester would be useful for testing something like gear oil meant for a differential with hypoid gears. Those differentials will call for somethin like a GL-5 oil which has additives specifically designed for high pressure, and they will perform well on this type of testing device. Motor oil is not designed to perform well on the test this device performs, and ranking motor oil based on results from this testing device is an absolutely idiotic thing to do.

Lake Speed Jr. explains it a lot better than I do:



In short, this "540 Rat" guy is a kook and you shouldn't make decisions about motor oil based on anything he says.

 

[FlipC]

So uh.... first of all, can you post your chassis number? The one on the passenger side dash. I just want to check something.

Second of all, that guy is recommending 5W-30 and not 5W-20 just through a cursory scroll.

Third of all, the RANDOM use of ALL CAPS by that guy and his borderline maniacal RANTS are NOT confidence INSPIRING.

I mean come on:

"This is FURTHER PROOF that Gear Heads can ONLY FIND THE TRUTH about motor oil right here in my Blog. So, Gear Heads everywhere should ignore all those Internet Automotive, Motor Oil, Motorcycle, Tractor and Boat Forums, because they only throw out WRONG, WORTHLESS information about motor oil."

Fourth, this is a dead giveaway:

"METHODOLOGY
The details of the specific test equipment set-up I developed, as well as the details of the specific test procedure I developed, that provide the accuracy and repeatability that I demand, are Proprietary Intellectual Property. But, I can share the following:
The test methodology or test procedure I use at a representative operating oil temperature of 230*F, is a dynamic rubbing friction test under load, which generates a wear scar on a test specimen that is bathed in the oil being tested. This procedure, which is performed exactly the same for every motor oil tested, provides excellent repeatability, which is critical to validate the methodology."

Okay it's proprietary so he can't tell you, but the part about "friction test under load, which generates a wear scar" indicates he's using something akin to a one-armed bandit:

While these devices are indeed designed for a purpose, that purpose is not testing motor oil.

There is no component of a modern engine that should see metal-on-metal sliding parts in the way that tester works. That is not how they are designed to work. This tester would be useful for testing something like gear oil meant for a differential with hypoid gears. Those differentials will call for somethin like a GL-5 oil which has additives specifically designed for high pressure, and they will perform well on this type of testing device. Motor oil is not designed to perform well on the test this device performs, and ranking motor oil based on results from this testing device is an absolutely idiotic thing to do.

Lake Speed Jr. explains it a lot better than I do:



In short, this "540 Rat" guy is a kook and you shouldn't make decisions about motor oil based on anything he says.

Well for what it matters my 20 350 Heritage is LR226. I have every Shelby from 65 through 69 and an 06 GT and a 2019 GT. What ever difference that makes. I don’t care what oil you all want to put in you car. I just was given you facts. It has worked for me.

 

[FlipC]

Well for what it matters my 20 350 Heritage is LR226. I have every Shelby from 65 through 69 and an 06 GT and a 2019 GT. What ever difference that makes. I don’t care what oil you all want to put in you car. I just was given you facts. It has worked for me.

Oh and by the way Spart. What is your chassis number??

 

[FlipC]

Oh and by the way Spart. What is your chassis number??

Plus your “Lake Speed” you tube BS is just that. Believe what you want but when a True engineer test for temp and thermal breakdown of oil shows you the facts. Then you can determine whatever the Hell you want but for me. I believe it and I have proven it to myself. Do whatever the Hell you want.

 

[Spart]

Plus your “Lake Speed” you tube BS is just that.

Lake is a well-regarded Tribologist (a lubrication engineer) and owns a company that does oil analysis using atomic emission spectroscopy.

Your guy "Rat 540" is.... not. He's some guy on the internet that bought a $300 abrasion tester and doesn't even use his real name.

So attention anybody who might be looking to purchase GT350 chassis number LR226 in the future: the prior owner ran the wrong oil grade in it because he believed in some weird, left-field info on the internet.

 

[FlipC]

Lake is a well-regarded Tribologist (a lubrication engineer) and owns a company that does oil analysis using atomic emission spectroscopy.

Your guy "Rat 540" is.... not. He's some guy on the internet that bought a $300 abrasion tester and doesn't even use his real name.

So attention anybody who might be looking to purchase GT350 chassis number LR226 in the future: the prior owner ran the wrong oil grade in it because he believed in some weird, left-field info on the internet.

Fu. It has 12,000 miles
On it and Runs Great!

 

[SheepDog]

Motul 5W-50 also meets the Ford spec for the GT350

 

[Nfs1000f]

Anyone who purchases a brand of oil for their GT350 and says “and it’s inexpensive” is a fool.

 

[galaxy]

Funny, I too have a guy that works in the oil industry and states that Amsoil has among the absolute best UOA’s he’s ever seen!

Motul 5W-50 also meets the Ford spec for the GT350

If I didn't already use Amsoil in everything, Motul across the board would be my go-to.

 

[Spart]

Funny, I too have a guy that works in the oil industry and states that Amsoil has among the absolute best UOA’s he’s ever seen!

There are plenty of things you can do for this engine to increase actual longevity that will void your warranty.

I feel like this should be an obvious statement, but perhaps not.

 

[robvas]

There are plenty of things you can do for this engine to increase actual longevity that will void your warranty.

I feel like this should be an obvious statement, but perhaps not.

Such as?

 

[FlipC]

There are plenty of things you can do for this engine to increase actual longevity that will void your warranty.

I feel like this should be an obvious statement, but perhaps not.

Sprat, my warranty is over but I was using 5-30 Quaker State Full Synthetic before it was up. I run it in Every engine I own. For Years. And have never had a problem. You can use Whatever you want it’s your Choice! But I know the engineer who Tested all these Oils, ( Read The Blog). And this is the Best Oil By Far ever tested. Read it! That’s what I will continue to use. Done with this subject!
PS. All your oils are on the list. Some not bad, But Not the Best!!

 

[Spart]

Sprat, my warranty is over

No need to state the obvious! That happened the second you put 5W-30 in it because of some blog you read on the internet written by a complete loon.

I cannot stress this enough: do not run 5W-30 in your Voodoo.

Such as?

So first of all, a cross plane crank will improve reliability a LOT.

A lot of people will draw the line there, but that's the big one. There are some things a good engine builder will do:

• Sleeved block.
• Long skirt pistons with coated skirts
• Billet con rods
• Balanced crank
• Blueprint everything

I think upgrading the bottom end is still outside of what most folks want to do.

For a car that gets tracked, these are minimally invasive and don't involve tearing down the bottom end. These are all from my notes on things I wanted to do to help with track-use longevity before I decided to get rid of the car:

• Ford Performance VCT solenoids (stronger brackets.)
• R phasers in Gen 1 engines.
• Tune to drop the limiter a tad (7900-8000) and increase midrange power to compensate.
• Billet OPG (Boundary)
• Valve springs (PAC).
• Upgraded valves (Ferrea)
• Bronze valve guides
• TItanium valve retainers
• 10W-60 oil (just to hopefully help keep the spun bearing boogeyman away.)

Things I would not do, ever, at all:

• Switch from 5W-50 oil to 5W-30 oil in a car that's notorious for spinning bearings.

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