Alignment specs for spirited DD

[Nate_V8]

I keep reading how an alignment can really affect these cars. Coming from a line of foxes with non handling suspension I have no idea what I should be going for here.

I do very spirited on and off ramps (yea I know lol), very few launches from stop as usually the tires just blow off anyways, might go to the strip once or twice a year. Vermont/new hampshire canyons aren't far from me and can do some sweet canyon runs but I would be doing that once a summer.

Any of the gurus have an idealish spec?

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[Bluemustang]

Highly subjective to be really honest. I could recommend several different specs depending on what your emphasis is. Drag racing is very different to carving corners/road racing. There's no optimal alignment spec for both. Any recommendations would need to be a compromise for both.

 

[Nate_V8]

Hmmm well what specs do you have? I wouldn't want anything extreme on either spectrum

 

[Shadow277]

It's objective actually. You wouldn't want toe out in the front and you don't want positive camber for the application OP wants.

 

[Shadow277]

Most places use the spec sheet from the factory. I personally go to Firestone for the $210 lifetime alignment. If you honestly do spirited driving, you'd want them to do alignments a lot. I did that with my 2012 Civic Si. I did well over 3 alignments so it was worth it. When you lift the car, a new alignment is preferible. Especially when slapping on new tires.

 

[Norm Peterson]

I keep reading how an alignment can really affect these cars. Coming from a line of foxes with non handling suspension I have no idea what I should be going for here.

I do very spirited on and off ramps (yea I know lol), very few launches from stop as usually the tires just blow off anyways, might go to the strip once or twice a year. Vermont/new hampshire canyons aren't far from me and can do some sweet canyon runs but I would be doing that once a summer.

For a car that's not being set up for serious dragstrip time, there isn't any need to optimize front alignment for runs at the dragstrip with skinnies up front. But you might want to run rear camber at factory preferred or perhaps a bit less negative than that, with front camber half a degree more negative than whatever you choose for rear camber.

I wouldn't go any more aggressive with the difference between front and rear camber than that; the lower rear camber will loosen the tail up a little (reduce understeer) at the same time that it gives a little more forward bite. Going overboard with lots of front negative camber to make the front stick too much better could make the car too loose.


Norm

 

[Nate_V8]

My tire setup will be 275/325 soon

What about these specs?

Front
Camber: -1.8 to -2.0
Toe: 0.02 to 0.05 per side, same both sides

Rear
Camber: -1.4 to -1.6
Toe: 0.10 to 0.12 per side, thrust angle 0.00

 

[AlbertD]

Those specs are good. If you want the steering to be a bit more responsive/lively you could go with 0 toe up front, otherwise what you have is fine.

 

[Nate_V8]

It's a more street oriented handling spec correct?


0 toe up front makes it more responsive but what is the trade off?

 

[NightmareMoon]

It's a more street oriented handling spec correct?


0 toe up front makes it more responsive but what is the trade off?

Zero toe will be ever so slightly more willing to turn at speed. Its actually the factory spec, so its not a poor choice for a daily driver. Slight toe in should make the steering a little heavier, which is nice for a car that does a lot of highway cruising, but its not really needed.

Nate_V8's specs are pretty good. Unfortunately the front camber isn't adjustable without camber plates or crash bolts or something.

 

[Nate_V8]

The front camber isn't adjustable??? Well that sucks.

So then:

Front
Camber: stock?
Toe: as close to 0, same both sides

Rear
Camber: -1.4 to -1.6
Toe: 0.10 to 0.12 per side, thrust angle 0.00

Something like that? What will that do for the rear with the front camber not being adjustable and the rear being adjusted?

 

[NightmareMoon]

The front camber isn't adjustable??? Well that sucks.

So then:

Front
Camber: stock?
Toe: as close to 0, same both sides

Rear
Camber: -1.4 to -1.6
Toe: 0.10 to 0.12 per side, thrust angle 0.00

Something like that? What will that do for the rear with the front camber not being adjustable and the rear being adjusted?

You can make the front camber adjustable. Generally getting more front camber will be a subtle change. Getting the rear toe dialed in is one of the bigger more obvious changes.

Rear camber ~1.5-1.6 is a good place to start (its difficult to get it set precisely with the stock adjustment slot). If you increase front camber you can go a little higher on the rear camber too, but keep it under 2 degrees or you start loosing rear straight line traction pretty quickly.

 

[AlbertD]

What will that do for the rear with the front camber not being adjustable and the rear being adjusted?

Less camber up front will typically introduce more understeer at the limit. A lot of factory cars are configured this way since understeer is easier to manage than oversteer in most cases. With your tire size selection, the car will most likely be understeering considerably at the limit... you could make suspension changes to compensate, but the huge disparity in front/rear grip will make that a difficult task imo.

 

[Nate_V8]

Well I need an alignment because I just installed the steeda stop the hop starter kit and my alignment bushings didn't go back in perfect.

I won't be doing CC plates.springs.shocks etc until next summer now but I will be getting new rims and tires (275s/325s) this summer. So I won't be able to adjust the front camber this year.


I will be changing the front sway bar next year also to compensate for the extra wide rear tires to reduce the understeer. I may go with 285s up front but I think I want to stay at 275 to reduce tram lining since it is 99% street driven.

Ok so since I'm not going to be adding CC plates or anything this year (like I said I will have CC plates for next summer) then these specs should be just fine?

Front
Camber: stock?
Toe: as close to 0, same both sides

Rear
Camber: -1.4 to -1.6
Toe: 0.10 to 0.12 per side, thrust angle 0.00

That will be ok for now?

What is impact of more or less rear toe?

 

[AlbertD]

That is fine. Rear toe is probably the most important to get right. You don't want to deviate much from the .10-.12 range per side.

Rear toe in is important on our cars because it allows the rear tires to follow the front....provides stability under hard braking, reduces oversteer throughout cornering, as well as provides more grip for powering out of a corner. If rear toe leans toward being negative then you will experience the exact opposite... all BAD.... you will get rear jitterness under braking, have tendency for oversteer when entering a corner and will have a hard time trying to apply power coming out of a corner.

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