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Alignment specs

codereddew

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Got an alignment yesterday.

Car is lowered on Eibach prokit springs, camber plates with proaction shocks/struts. Car is DD with occasional drag races, but def looking to get into autoX in the future.

Overall, I think car drives great and bumpsteer was noticeably reduced following alignment as well as tramlining (255 F tires / 305 R).

Just wanted to get thoughts on what y’all think. Is the rear toe okay or should I try and get it within 0.10-0.12 per side (total 0.20-0.24)?

B0C9ED71-D081-4395-9412-961C09208673.jpeg


Also, I know strut tower nuts are torqued to 47 ft/lbs, but what are the torque specs for the other bolts that are manipulated during an alignment? Wanted to ensure everything was torqued to spec
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codereddew

codereddew

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Also, any tips for tightening the top strut shaft nut for the Steeda adjustable proaction front damper?

I have the Steeda 22mm tool but I, for the life of me, cannot get an 11mm wrench to hold still and it keeps slipping and is now almost stripped. Should I just get a 22mm crowfoot and just use an 11mm socket?
 

NightmareMoon

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Also, any tips for tightening the top strut shaft nut for the Steeda adjustable proaction front damper?

I have the Steeda 22mm tool but I, for the life of me, cannot get an 11mm wrench to hold still and it keeps slipping and is now almost stripped. Should I just get a 22mm crowfoot and just use an 11mm socket?
A 22mm (harbor freight) offset wrench and a socket wrench on the small top hex are what I use.

FYI they don’t need to be crazy tight, the nut is only keeping it from falling out of the car on droop or clattering over bumps, gravity does most of the work to keep the strut under the car.
 

Norm Peterson

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I doubt it'd be worth the effort to change the rear toes by 0.04-ish degrees, considering that you might end up chasing camber as well. Serious autocross use would probably be better served by 0.05° individual toes / 0.10° total.

Look through posts by BMacIL / Brian@BMVK.


Norm
 

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TeeLew

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So far, I really haven't found an upper limit on front camber for autocrossing, so if you're going to play with little orange cones, going to maximum negative camber (which makes toe go in the 'out' direction) is a good start. Mark the original position so it's easy to return to baseline.
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