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A few whipple questions

HoustonGT

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Getting close to pulling the trigger on a whipple for my 2020 PP2. I think I am going stage 1 as this car will never see the drag strip and I'm not into street racing. Just looking to add some power and do some spirited driving at times. I'll be limited to 91 octane in CA.

First, should my half shafts and clutch be ok. It will see an occasional hard launch, but I got the PP2 because I am not into straight line racing. Once moving, I do like winding her out to high rpm's.

Second, how is whipple with their warranty? Is it worth the cost?

Third, I do plan to get the extra large intercooler. Would the larger TB add any benefit? Anything else to consider? Besides the cost of the TB gets me closer to a stage 2 kit?

I know, I'll get some encouragement to go stage 2. Its not a cost thing, I just don't see myself being able to take advantage of the extra HP on the street. Go ahead and tell me why I should do it...
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S550AC11

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If you aren't drag launching you should be ok with stock stuff for a little while. The stock clutch and flywheel is really heavy on 18+ cars so expect a performance gain there as well. Light rotating everything really helps.

I'm not sure about Whipple warranty, I didn't buy it.

I went with standard heat exchanger and I live in CA too. I read a bunch of info from department of boost and the standard was still larger than the VMP triple pass. I do run an RTR grille though to offer up more air to the air intake and heat exchanger.

Personally I'd just go stage 2 from the beginning. The torque will be near the same on both stages, but the stage 2 will carry it through the tach. Just add some boostane to the tank for fuel safety and you'll be a happy reliable camper.
 

engineermike

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If you can’t see yourself being able to take advantage of the stage 2 power, why are you asking about using the stage 2 throttle body? I’m pretty sure the only differences between stage 1 and 2 are the throttle body, pulley, and calibration. You can’t run the stage 1 calibration on the stage 2 throttle body. However, you can run the stage 1 pulley with the stage 2 throttle body and calibration. Several of us have gone that route and feel you get extra power up top without increasing boost and sacrificing safety.
 
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HoustonGT

HoustonGT

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If you can’t see yourself being able to take advantage of the stage 2 power, why are you asking about using the stage 2 throttle body? I’m pretty sure the only differences between stage 1 and 2 are the throttle body, pulley, and calibration. You can’t run the stage 1 calibration on the stage 2 throttle body. However, you can run the stage 1 pulley with the stage 2 throttle body and calibration. Several of us have gone that route and feel you get extra power up top without increasing boost and sacrificing safety.
I was thinking the larger TB would help with heat management. Pulling more cool air in. Didn't realize the stage 1 tune wouldn't work with the larger TB. Thanks for the info.
 

Slopoke

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However, you can run the stage 1 pulley with the stage 2 throttle body and calibration. Several of us have gone that route and feel you get extra power up top without increasing boost and sacrificing safety.

That's the way I am running. I'm also adding Boostane to achieve around 97 octane, to help keep the detonation gremlins at bay.
 

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HoustonGT

HoustonGT

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If you aren't drag launching you should be ok with stock stuff for a little while. The stock clutch and flywheel is really heavy on 18+ cars so expect a performance gain there as well. Light rotating everything really helps.

I'm not sure about Whipple warranty, I didn't buy it.

I went with standard heat exchanger and I live in CA too. I read a bunch of info from department of boost and the standard was still larger than the VMP triple pass. I do run an RTR grille though to offer up more air to the air intake and heat exchanger.

Personally I'd just go stage 2 from the beginning. The torque will be near the same on both stages, but the stage 2 will carry it through the tach. Just add some boostane to the tank for fuel safety and you'll be a happy reliable camper.
Being from Houston, I am probably overly worried about heat soak. I'll be in the bay area, so for now heat won't be an issue unless I move back to TX in the future.

Not sure I wanna do the boostane routine everytime I fill up. I assume some guys are running the stage 2 on 91 without an octane adder?
 

moffetts

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Stage 2 with 91 is fine, but you will probably see some pulled timing. I went from stage 1 to 2 on my 2015 and it would pull timing with straight 91 on both setups, but yours being a newer blower design with DI, I don’t want to give you incorrect info. I have the big heat exchanger on mine and it helped a lot in the valley summers, but in the Bay Area it really doesn’t matter.
 

Sean709

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I would just do the stage 2 right off which also has injectors I believe- At least I know the earlier 2.9 stage 2s did. I would bet 75 percent of people who get a stage 1 end up buying the stage 2 parts or plan to. Easier just to buy the stage 2 kit and do it in 1 shot. My car had the stock clutch with 10000 miles on it when I bought it a year and half ago and it was still in good shape when we replaced it. For what you want to do with it I would go with the stage 2 and leave the stock clutch until it needs to be replaced. If your gonna do a stage 1 and TB its probably a good idea to put in the stage 2 injectors anyway.
 

96gt4.6

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The warrany is nice if needed, but you need to read the wording VERY carefully.

I have not reviewed the fine print/contract since I was looking into purchasing my kit 2 years ago, but it used to go something like this:

You cannot modify the car in any way, other than the Whipple Kit being installed, less an axle-back exhaust.

You cannot run anything but stock/OEM type tires, however they could be switched out with different wheel/tire combinations from the same model year vehicle, if desired. BUT, no compounded tire/Nitto/Mickey/Ect

No tune modifications, must run the stock supplied Whipple tune.

There was a cap on total, lifetime repair costs. It used to be around $10k or $12K. If say the engine was totally ruined through catastrophic failure, that would nearly cap out the warranty, and you are responsible for everything after that.

The warranty was 2 (I think that's right) years, from the OEM warranty start date of the car, NOT the Whipple kit install date, and I cannot remember if there was a mileage limit. So, essentially if you had a 2017 car (like me), and bought the kit in 2018 and put it on, you only have 1 year of warranty.

You lose all Ford Powertrain warranty, which is 5yr/60k miles. That would include Engine/Transmission/Rear axle/Driveline components. Bumper to Bumper (body/electrical side of things/interior/ect) will be honored by Ford still in most cases.

After reading all of that, to me the Warranty was pointless for the money, unless perhaps you were installing it on a new car and got that full 2 years in. But even then, honestly I have had 0 issues over 2 years of racing now, which is pretty much all the car does aside from sit in my garage through the week. Summer months it's taken to the track every outing, and i'm also going on Race Week this year with it. Almost 8k miles and the stock motor/trans and rear/whipple are still going great (knock on wood).

Would have been a waste of money in my case to buy the warranty.
 

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96gt4.6

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I want to say it was offered at $1k or maybe $2k back when I ordered my setup.

But, my memory isn't what it used to be.....I think there was or is a big thread here on it all. Roush warranty is similar, and the Edelbrock setup came with a warranty (similar).
 

96gt4.6

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This might help:

Whipple Warranty

I was off on some things, but it's all detailed in there.....
 

db252

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Out of all the Whipple installs I’ve done, I always recommend the stage 2 specifically for the 132mm tb and larger injectors only for the reason that they have all upgraded after the fact to this level or beyond. Most, if not all, of us modifiers add more to what we thought is all we wanted Including myself.
in my case I started with gen2 stage 2 kit, then to the larger HE (wasn’t made yet when my kit came out), to fuel system to run E85, to modified (by Whipple) gen3.
Granted, everyone’s goals are different but be absolutely sure you’ll never go beyond what you’re thinking or it will cost much more in the long run.
 

brianbr

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Not sure if its changed yet but Whipple no longer offers a powertrain warranty. I called and spoke with them not long ago and they were still looking for a warranty company to work with. Make sure you do your own research.
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